hi anyone running one of these?, if so what settings do you use and what is the basic setup of your engine? as in turbos, smic-fmic, dumps,injectors, ecu, etc, i have been fiddling around with mine a bit and still trying to decide which is the best setup, can't quite get it right, cheers
Yer i have one bhp, "can't quite get it right" what do you mean, boost falls off to soon, slow spool,ect ? Open road is the place to get it right
Have you seen this. http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=920063&words=profec
yeah beaver but as with just about everything american it is ass about face, i casnt really understand it at all, got just as much joy out of the greddy book, japanese translated to english :bash:
I had one in my zed. May or may not still be there. Low boost was set for 0.8bar, high boost for 0.98 bar. Minimal mods. See if Louis still has it; he may be able to give you the settings. Even tho I had a tune, but that controls fuel and timing it'll be a start. Boost was rock steady and at what it was set at regardless of air temp.
I've got one but haven't had much luck so far. I have the stock boost sensor hooked up to my wideband controller so I can log boost pressure. It's dropping from 15 to around 13, increasing gain didn't seem to help so I probably need to do something with my wastegate actuators. :/
have u changed your actuator lines. there full of restrictors. also its normal for auto turbos 2 drop off in the high rpms.. if you do infact have auto turbos http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=267444
Theres plenty of articles on TT.net on tuning boost with the Profec Theres actually 3 settings you need to fine tune to get your desired boost, spool up and safety margin. AND make sure you take the plug out of the spare port on the solenoid Heres an article that covers the basic set up procedure fairly well
I'm seeing pretty much the same as I did when I had a manual boost controller installed, haven't got auto turbos, I removed the solenoids altogether and the boost/vacuum lines were replaced the whole way and are as short as possible. I doubt there's a boost leak, tested for that a few times and the widebands would probably show an imbalance under WOT. I'm pretty sure it's just weak actuators unfortunately.
