Hi Guys, just about to do the FPCU bypass but wanted to ask a couple of things while I've got them on my mind Should the fuel pump relay be hot all the time (ie, constant power)? It's been sitting for nearly a week unstarted... Does anyone have any leftovers from the screwed up FPCU repair guide? I'm fairly sure the 'Diode Fast Recovery Rectifier' shown on the only 2 working pictures in the Bigkid repair article is not working 100% right. Can you do the FPCU bypass and leave the FPCU disconnected? The reason I'm doing the bypass is because my injectors are reaching 98%+ duty cycle when approaching the rev limit @ WOT... If the bypass doesn't work I'll be replacing the fuel pump. What pumps can I use as a direct replacement (or with minimal modification) for the stock 2+2 pump, if it comes to that?
Yes, you can do FPCU bypass with the FPCU removed. Easy as in a 2+2. As for the pump, the only direct replacement for a TT pump is another TT pump. I've seen Bosch 044's and 040's mounted in the tank though. (I have a spare 044 in the shed, shameless plug ) Walbro's also fit, UAS sell a bolt in kit for it. How much boost are you running?
What do you need to do to get an 044 to fit? I'm running 12PSI currentlly, but it was doing the same thing when I was running 10PSI, which makes me think it's either the FPCU not putting through enough voltage to the pump, or the pump not running correctly at the supplied voltage.
Really does have continuos power, but is switched by the controller, so it shouldn't be hot all the time. It may have a slight short causing you some power loss to the pump.
Replaced the relay with a 40A 12V relay, wired up little connectors that fit the loom and the new relay Bypass is now done too, will give it a test run tomorrow if I ever get a chance... Oh and after removing the FPCU, the old relay was no longer hot.
Good news, with the replacement relay installed and FPCU removed and bypassed, the injector alarm no longer goes off at 7000rpm I dropped the boost slightly ready for the cruise tomorrow and it's running 11.5psi.
I'll take some photos for you, but not too concerned with getting it repaired. Once I have my EMS Stinger up and running it will be controlling the fuel pump (which is why I want to but in a Bosch) anyway.
Buy a real ecu or leave the oem one in there. Stinger's are very basic and will make it run like a dog.
Please explain DRZ.. From reading the manual I have not seen anything that the stinger can't do that microtech or haltech cannot do Once again it is the tuner not the ecu, as there is more than enough functions to control more than what the stocko z32 ecu can control. PMW modulators for NVCS, Nissan CAS trigger, and fully sequential injection and by passes the silly MAF.
Have you ever installed, used or ran a car with a stinger? A school calculator has more capability. Why would you downgrade your ecu from oem? Yes.it may do the job, but no where close to the oem ecu or a quality after market. Also it wont do full sequential on a 6, neither will the haltech btw, but with 4 times the load points as themt, it is much more tuneable. Compare them for yourself and see what you come up with. http://www.haltech.com/downloads/platinum/Platinum%20Sport%201000%20Specifications%20v2.pdf http://www.enginemanagement.com.au/product_info.php?products_id=107 http://www.blackbmw.net/index.php?o...id=69:ecu&catid=46:parts-collection&Itemid=56
Why compare them? when you can compare these. http://www.haltech.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=105&Itemid=20 http://www.enginemanagement.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=23&products_id=130 http://www.blackbmw.net/index.php?o...id=69:ecu&catid=46:parts-collection&Itemid=56 My point is you cannot say something is shit when you have had no first hand experience with it, anyone running their own business should have more ethics than quickly saying some other company product is shit, then saying Haltech doesn't do sequential on a 6 when it does. Maybe not an E6x but certainly the E11 and the sports 2000's.
Ok, you clearly have no idea. I have istalled and used all 3 of the ecu's I listed. The haltech will do sequential if you go up in price range, for the sake of this thread I compared similarprice bracket ecu's. Have you used and or installed all 3 to give you any idea what you are talking about?
I think most people have missed the point "The reason I'm doing the bypass is because my injectors are reaching 98%+ duty cycle when approaching the rev limit @ WOT" Your injectors at 98% has NOTHING to do with the fuel pump or fuel pressure. It means they are having to operate at 98% of the capacity 100% of the time, they are stretched to their limit. HIGHER CAPACITY INJECTORS is what you need. Its just basic mechanics ... sheesh people
Fuel pressure has a huge effect on injector duty. If the fuel pressure is low, injector duty will increase to get additional fuel into the cylinder. The bypass is being done as he feels his pump may not be getting driven 100% and not acheiving full pressure.
Confirmed the bypass has 100% fixed the issue on the cruise today. Plenty of hard driving, no problems with injectors
