did a diagnostic test andit came up with: 13= Engine Coolant Temp Sensor circuit 34= Detonation Sensor Circuit Ive searched te tech section as to what they mean and the only thing i could come up with is i have to adjust the timing. Does these codes mean i have replace those sensors as they are faulty? Does know how to fix these sensors and where they are if thats the case? Does anyone know where in a tech section or something that explains what these mean? Any help is appreciated! Cheers
Error code 13 will be almost a guarenteed corroded coolant temp sensor contact. Its the yellow plug on the top of the alloy coolant pipe at the front of the motor. Pull it off and clean the metal spade and also the female plug and then retension the plug terminals as they will be bent out a bit especially after cleaning. Error code 34 will probably be a faulty knock sensor and the easiest way to fix this is to bypass the sensor by unplugging the loom plug and installing a 1,000ohm resistor in the female plug.
Fault codes = these sensors need 'looking at', cleaning, maybe testing. The code 13, your coolant temp sensor may well just need a clean. There will be pics in the tech section of exactly how to do that...very easy job. So clear your code 13, clean and tighten up that connector and after driving your car for a while see if the code 13 returns??? Odds are it wont but if it does then maybe it does need replacing. The code 34 is a very common one, your det sensor may be working fine and this is telling you it has picked up detonation at some point in time. It usually tells you how many starts with the fault. Clear the code 34 and after driving your car re-check if it has returned? Your car may also be in safety boost as a 'self protect'action of detonation sensor being triggered. If you are unable to clear the code 34 this usually indicates a problem with the actual sensor itself or the associated wiring or connector. Check out those things and if you still cant clear it there are a few options....let us know how you go, as everyone learns that way!
ok I dont really want to bypass a sensor considering that it maybe saving my engine being in safety boost. But i still need to know how to get it replaced and to stop my car detonating. Will i have to adjust the timing? i dont know what you mean by that. Ill clean the connector for the temp but my car is running like a dog so im guessing the sensor is telling what is actually happening so i need to rectify it. Anyone know how?
Ding dong, your wrong ... Code 34 has nothing at all to do with detonation. I can sit and hammer on an engine all day with a hammer and not get a code 34. Code 34 is 100% purely a test of a functioning det sensor.
How did you do the diagnostic test? I was presuming it was done with DataScan or similar but from your reply's Im guessing not. You need to work out if the actual sensor is not functioning properly OR you car is detonating and triggering it. Replacing the Det sensor is a very big job that is usually done at the same time as major engine work as you have to pull quite a bit of engine stuff to access it. With DataScan fault code scanning it not only shows you the fault code but also for how many starts it has been present. If your temp sensor isnt registering properly your car will run like a dog! Just ask Mayhem....His temp sensor was corroded and intermittantly was registering 10 deg C! What does a cold engine do?/ fuel/timing/rpm+++.....with an operating temp engine=severely overfueled non going problem on the side of the road. Cleaned the sensor, it read the correct temp so the ecu could do its thing properly and after a bit of a splutter she was purring. I think I did offer to put the DataScan on your car, may be worth considering as it streamlines alot of these issues.
Just bypass it... Its unlikely to cause you any problems. Most of our cars have no reason to be detonating at normal levels. There should be no problem with your car running at normal boost with normal timing as its all very conservative anyway. The vast majority of owners bypass this as its hard to replace and simply wait until the engine is out for another reason. I must stress it in no way means your car has ever detonated, it just means the wiring or sensor has had it. Temp sensor is at the front of the engine. Give the terminals a good clean. Then reset your ECU codes (easiest way with no consult is to unplug the battery for an hour). With these two items resolved you should recheck codes. If its showing a 55 then I bet your engine will be running a lot smoother.
So the det sensor... i got with the error code is just telling me that the sensor is buggered and not thtat is actually detonating. Is thst correct? How much is it to get my car Datscaned anyway?
Can I ask some questions Nathan? My experience with the code 34 has shown me two different ways they behave. It will say the car has been started so many times with this fault. If is has been a bad batch of fuel, or an overheating prob or something that has caused the car to trigger the sensor you are able to clear the fault code and if the problem that caused it to be triggered has been rectified it will not return upon driving. Sometimes with a code 34 you are unable to clear the fault, it is constant. This I thought was an indication that it was the actual sensor or associated wiring ,plug ect that were throwing the 34 and there for could not be simply cleared. Can you please explain to me why this is how it presents? And what you believe is the correct way to rectify the two...thanks Nathan.
Yep 100% correct The ECU just checks for the correct resistance in the sensor. Thats the point of the resistor bypass. If it sees the right resistance then it puts the car back in normal mode. You must clear all the codes though after the problem has been corrected.
my temp reading... seems normal on my guages. it reads about 80 in normal driving. Yous sure it would just be the connections?
FREE! for forum people... I have the setup and yeah I sell them too, but Im a Zed nut way before Im a sales person.
My guess is a partly functioning sensor There are no 2 components to a code 34. It is simply one error. Detonation itself, recorded by the ECU does not throw any error codes. Lack of sensor due to failure or corroded wires does. Only way to correct it is to replace it or bypass it.
No, Im not sure it is a corroded connector, but it is common and better to try an easy fix before throwing out a plug that could be just dirty!
Just use a 1megaOhm resistor. There is a tech article on it I think. Very straight forward, just make sure your using the right sensor loom
i have checked... most of the connectors and things i could find earlier and they all seam sweet but this temp one im not sure which one it was so ill rechek it. is there a diag as to where it is actually located anywhere?
