EP Racing Crankscraper/Windage Kits

It certainly can't hurt and whatever the gain is it is what I call free power' as less loss rather than more power often the other way with more heat and stress, like adding boost.
I am still unclear if it is just he vertical mesh or it also has the more important horizontal mesh closer to the action?

 

Just vertical mesh, the little pictures up the top are indicative of other types of windage kits.

 

there is no room to have a horizontal mesh screen as the girdle sits extremely close to the belly of the pan. The screens hug the girdle the full length of the block to cover the counter weights.

 

The horizontal one is the most important but if no room then ..........We have not done any windage tray mods but rather Tig weld a plate over the mouth of the sump well to stop oil splashing out under braking, accelerating and cornering. I don't have any pics, but good mod to do if you have the sump at same time moding for this windage set up. Oil falls in easy but much harder to spill out, this is more for reliability for racing to prevent oil surge and starvation but also less oil sloshing in the crank, so slightly more free power.

On a similar subject. We made a scraper plate for our gear box in our 300ZX race car, which now has straight cut gear set, and feeds oil to the front gear which can run low on oil with high revs and G forces from hard acceleration.

 

I totally agree with you in encasing the crank area with a screen but like we've mentioned...if there's no room..not much we can do. Funny you mention the plate to surround the sump pick up tube. I'm developing a shield for customers to purchase that will make the sump area a complete semi/sealed unit to keep oil where its needed.

On a side note....since you have gone to straight cut gears I HIGHLY suggest you coat your gears and such. If you are interested in having something like that done I can give you a hell of a deal if you are interested. I could coat those gears and assemblies to where you could run a zero or 5 weight oil and never have an issue again with the gears burning up or going into failure.

 

payment made of $136.74 AUS.

thanx

 

Good enough. I sent you an email in reply to your payment.

 

that equates to $122US though paypal.

 

I had the gears Chryogenic treated as well as the sandwich plate or bulkhead. I use Redline light weight Shockproof oil. What coating are you talking about?

 

Cryo just merely does a molecular straightening of the metal. The coating I suggest to you is a dryfilm ceramic coating that I bake onto the gears after I've media blast them. Once they are baked the dry film ceramic becomes the sub straight and you'll never have to worry about tearing those gears up after the coating is applied. I can coat rear diff ring and pinions and you can turn the axle by hand with ease without using two hands and putting some effort into it. This stuff is absolutely wonderful for gearing.

 

I should hope so, otherwise what sort of nancy boy would you be? The specified torque required to rotate the diff is something like 1.5N.m

Sounds like some nifty stuff though.

 

usually by hand its semi tough to rotate by hand. But none the less you'll see good improvements with the coated gears. I do coatings from engine bearings to ring and pinions to transmissions. I do it all in house. quick turn around.

 

What sort of $$ to do a transmission or diff? Plus there is the issue of sending it to the otherside of the world.

 

Never actually heard of it, is there a good link, or info somewhere? I use HPC coating regularly outside the motor and have done exhaust ports but not gears as did not think strong enough, or maybe different stuff and process?

 

To do the entire diff to include the inside of the housing?...or just the ring and pinion?

 

what brand of coating do you use currently? Or do you send your parts out locally in your area to be coated?

 

HPC and local.

 

who and what is HPC? And who does your coatings local?

 

High Performance Ceramic. Coating.
WE are in Sydney Australia you realise?
I spoke with my gerabox expert and he knows of this treatment you do and says it is good for helical cut gears, but not for straight cut gears that I use in gear box.

 

what is his reasons for stating this? Why would these be good for a helical gear vs a straight cut?