Engine oil

Discussion in 'Technical' started by Jabba, Sep 3, 2014.

  1. Jabba

    Jabba Member

    What's the correct engine oil weight to use? I've been using Penrite HPR 15 full synthetic 15w-60. However the oil pressure gauge only works when it wants to so I hope the pressures ok. As for Kms on the engine I'll say around 150,000
     
  2. ZYTRAM

    ZYTRAM Formerly known as martini_Z

    I'd say that's a little too thick at temperature. 10w40 or 15w40 seems to be the general consensus for our zeds. I usually run Penrite or Nulon 10w40, both full synthetic.
     
  3. Fists

    Fists Well-Known Member

    15W-60 in the penrite stuff is ok, OEM recomendation is 10-30 or 10-40 when nights aren't below -18C or up to 20-50 if nights don't go below 10C. Since the Penrite stuff has that 'extra 10' marketing I like to er on the thicker side, it saps a little power (in theory) but gives a little insurance and runs quieter, TT Zs get their oil fairly hot so may be running above the temperature used for SAE ratings anyway.

    Mine's currently running Penrite racing 15W-50, If I had a fresh engine I would probably go for the 10W-40 or whatever the engine builder recommends
     
  4. Martin Williams

    Martin Williams Well-Known Member

    Stock oil temperature sensors are known to be crap. Renew it or change to aftermarket system
     
  5. Jabba

    Jabba Member

    Where's the sensor?
     
  6. Fists

    Fists Well-Known Member

    In the passenger side turbo oil feed line, just to the rear of the engine mount. Not too har to get to from underneath. Most people recommend just getting a good aftermarket gauge if you want to check pressure properly, or use a mechanical shop gauge just to make sure they're right.
     
  7. Shane001

    Shane001 Well-Known Member

    Yeah I think Martin meant pressure sensor.

    And I wouldn't mount an aftermarket sensor there either, better to mount it off the engine with a relocation kit, connected to where the old pressure sensor was.
     
  8. Fists

    Fists Well-Known Member

    and make sure you check how the new sender earths, some need to be modified if you want to use thread tape to seal them, like the stock sender.
     
  9. Shane001

    Shane001 Well-Known Member

    Agree ^^

    Always a good idea to solder an earth wire to the body of the sender.
     
  10. Bob Lloyd-Jones

    Bob Lloyd-Jones Oldreverbob

    Nissan oil senders are known to have problems with the little hole becoming restricted try to put a needle through the hole. Sometime this fixes the problem. If not buy a new one.
     
  11. Jabba

    Jabba Member

    The temp sensor does that need more then one wire connected to it? While I was under mine last night I noticed mine only has one and there doesn't appear to be another wire that's been cut or pulled off.

    For oil pressure is it just the sender that's prone to be faulty or can the gauge play up to?

    So there seems to be a bit of a range of different weights people are running. How do tell what's best for your engine? Is it purely Kms? Or should you only increase the weight from standard if the lifters begin to tick?
     
  12. SuperZ

    SuperZ Resident Z lunatic

    Oils and oils - soull!

    Wear in an engine, mean temps and driving style determines what oil you use within specifications.

    A good test as a guide is to see a little smoke on start up and when you accelerate fully but after warming up you see none. Synthetics are better but standard oil is fine unless your aggressive in driving. Regular changes are recommended regardless.

    Your viscosity directly relates to the temperature - you need to establish the minimum temp first followed by the maximum and how often its started.

    10W-30 is standard for an average guide but you can adjust from there depending on factors. 15W is more for a worn engine. 5W is a bit too thin in most cases.

    If your driving aggressive then you may want to add to the last figure - say 10W/15W to 40/50

    This is only a guide - lifter tick will also tell you its either too thin (generally)

    So assess your temps/ wear in engine/ how hard you drive / how often you start / how long you drive on average then choose your viscosity and check the smoke at the exhaust to see if its getting plenty of oil at startup and acceleration but is otherwise smokeless on idle/ cruising.

    Oil is a simple subject but the factors are so variable that everyone has a different specification and it can be hard to get the answer because it actually depends on your own individual circumstances. What's good for someone else may not be good for you even with the same wear in engine and same temp.

    Start with the recommended 10W- 30 (manufacturers recommendation for an engine in good cond) as the average and then go from there once you factor in your style / temps and wear. If you do that you cannot go to far wrong from there.

    Hope that's helpful

    JC
     
  13. Fists

    Fists Well-Known Member

    The factory sensor does only use one wire, because it earths through the fitting. Since it earths through the fitting if you use thread tape it wont work. I assume if you make an earth from the spare pin on its connector it will work fine with thread tape, on other senders you may need to solder/braze an earth wire onto the body of the sender.
     

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