Actually he did say that it served no practical purpose. I pointed out that it does have some practical purpose by using the example that cars do keep fans cycling on low when on highway. I don't see what 300zxt is trying to prove. We already know the fan is not designed to be on high speed on the highway. No one is disputing that. But it can still be on low speed when required (e.g hot day, going up hills etc). This happens with nearly all cars. Many will never turn off condensor fans at all. Anyway im over this bitching. I've learnt from this not to bother those who are more adept at keyboard skills than me.
What I need here Is someone to say "man just do this simple thing" and I do and then the car runs like 85C (just above the thermo 82C opening temp)... ...Like one of those rad panel air guides or whatever. my current setup front to back; Stillen copy front bar & nose panel FMIC K&N pod Oil cooler stock 14" aux fan AC condenser (clear blown out with air recently) 56mm ally 1pass radiator PWR large autotrans cooler (clear blown out with air recently) Stock Clutchfan with stock cowling Steel lower rad hose 82C thermo 89 TT engine and behind that Yeti driving his Z
Anyway.... back on topic How old is your waterpump? I initially had bad overheating problem in my 300 and eventually pulled my waterpump off to find that it only have 2 blades out of 8 left on it!
FFS! Please read! Seriously, do you even read what you type yourself? Going up a hill under heavy load is NOT cruising at 2,500rpms at 120kmph is it? Sorry yeti, but that guy was being a complete asshat. I cant find any information about that fan you're using to get the specs of it. That's what we need to know. The stock fan pushes something like 4000CFM or something mad, you'll need a beefy e-fan to keep up with that.
waterpump is new Replaced at UAS during 100k service. Also when I bleed the radiator with a funnel revving engine changes the level in the funnel so there is flow. Thermo is new too, and I checked it about 2 months ago it opens at about 82C. Coolant system has been flushed recently too and radiator is new.
Know what you're talking about and learn to read then before making yourself look stupid and it will be fine... Yeti how is your intercooler setup? Got any pics of the ducting for it? If all that stuff is new then I think your FMIC combined with a poor quality e-fan might be your problem.
Hmm ill check that out Ill find out from UAS, maybe my thermo is not stock? What temp does a stock thermo open at?
82C quite sure thats what the shop put in there, I think there are 76.5C ones also going by what people have posted earlier.
i think you are right there , i beleive my bonnet vents greatly assist the coolling of the whole engine bay i can feel the hot air rusing out of them from the thermo fan. and it was after installing the vents that i noticed the thermo fan dosnt come on as nearly as much as it used to with the standard bonnet . .
300zxt is correct here. A thermo fan should not run at cruise speed . period. on the highway the temp should drop down out of fan range. And speed over about 30kph will outflow what the fan can do.
i got them from ebay, only cost $50 , its funny cause i spent $300 on bonnet scoops but they looked to over the top and i didnt go ahead so they are collecting dust on my shelf as i went with these wanting something more discrete, also on researching this i found it better to allow air out (vents) than to force more air in (scoops) as this would go against the air flow of the fan . .
I have a Thermofan, PWR 42mm twinpass and used to run about 82-87deg with aircon off and up to 95 deg with it on. After my little overheat incident on the way to Cowra I replaced the thermostat with a new one from Caz and now I run at 76-80 deg and up to 92 with the air con and giving it a bootfull. I thought my thermostat was fine, when I tested it it only partially opened... It's worth the money to change it.
Hiya Paul Great to see it was only an exhaust bracket causing the rattle well done matey Back on topic I tried around 4 different thermo fans in my search for the ultimate setup for my uses. 2 of which were leading well known brands and two were not so well known brands but had high specs. All I can say is they were all *@$#house. I ended up springing for the SPAL high performance 16inch s curve which flows around 1800cfm (tested on radiator at a certain pascal rating cant remember what though) and draws a massive 30 odd plus amps while starting to smooth out to a constant 20-25 amps while running. I have raced my car circuit and drags with nitrous and without and done some decent runs up the local freeways etc and had 100% no probs with it at all. It performs well and does its intended job. I do however have a unique setup which may contribute to the overall result. I do seriously believe in the SPAL product and can give the exact model number to anyone who wants to run one. They cost around the $230 mark but are well worth it.
