hi guys, just got this in and running would like to no if its all within the norm.. the only thing I can see is the timing is out not sure about the rest of it other than the temp. http://youtu.be/iaYUmkSlP-c cheers, Steve
Look in this thread: http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=317699 The TDC should read 15* when idling and then go up from there when revving. Not sure why yours is reading 25*, as 15* is the default regardless of where you set the base timing. Not sure if these things had a setup as far as Number of Cylinders etc.
Ok, Ill better check that next time its cold lol. Must admit I never look but wouldnt the rpm be higher on cold start hence the higher TDC ? Steve's is idling at 650rpm or so and showing 25* ??
That can be adjusted by cas?...so I take it the I is for injectors...although not sure what the numbers mean...AAC?....O2 is oxygen sensors?...tps I no...what about afm...
The CAS is used to adjust the actual base timing. The ecu simply assumes it is correct at 15 degrees but has no way to verify this. Hence why it needs to be set correctly using a timing light.
My understanding is the factory ecu 'expects' the base timing to be 15 degrees. Of course you can change this at the CAS to advance timing if you don't have the ability to 'tune' the timing maps of the factory ecu (ie with Nistune), but this advances the timing across the board and can be quite risky to do. Much better to leave the actual base timing at 15 degrees and use Nistune or some other chip based emulator to tune the timing maps and only advance timing where there are benefits without the risk of detonation.
A/T or M/T? IIRC, the A/T switches to 25 degrees as soon as you put it into D. There is a switch on the tranny that could be shorted, making the A/T ECU think the car is in D, and telling the ECU to switch to 25 degrees immediately. Everything else said about the CAS expecting it to be @ 15 degrees whilst at idle/P is correct.
as pointed out above 15* is base timing. this is set by the cas. It is totally seperate from anything on the ecu, it is set manually by a timing light with a warm engine by rotating the CAS. I personally like to have the timing light inducer as close to the coil pack on the number 1 cylinder (front one on our drivers side). Any number readout on ECU talk or consult etc as to the current timing advancement is a combination of 15* and the ECU's map for the conditions the ecu is seeing at that point. This is why the 15* is so important, unless it is changed by nistune or similar it is a set parameter in the ecu that we tune the engine to match. it is a baseline that all further adjustments are made from in accordance to the maps programed into the ECU, this is one point where the aggressive or safe tunes come in, ie how much they modify on the baseline (15*) of timing. It is NOT unusual to see an idle timing figure at a number like 25* or numbers like 45* when you rev the engine this is what your ecm are telling your car to alter its timing to based on the current conditions the ecm is seeing through its sensors. And please do not take this as you must see those figures they are just examples. Worry if it is not changeing rather than what it is changing to. PLEASE unless a tuner you trust has instructed otherwise (and hopefully alter your BIN accordingly) set the CAS to 15* and let the bloody ECM readout what it wants when it comes to timing.
Idle looks to be in the right ballpark but seems to hunt around more than mine does, not a big problem but could point to something not working problem. Voltage is low I think, try holding it at about 2.5krpm and see if it reads over 14v, if not your alternator or wiring might need attention, do you ever have battery issues? Temperature, still warming up? operating temp shouldn't be going past 80ish under normal driving in this weather. injector duty, low numbers suitable for idle, gotta say I've never read mine saying 0% duty while running though. Your AAC is too high, possibly an incorrectly set idle screw or a vacuum leak somewhere, there are tech articles on the idle systems at http://tech.aus300zx.com/ AFM and TPS seem to be set correctly for readings at idle. Your O2s need to be rapidly changing while cruising, can't diagnose very well at idle
Yep, under the stock mapping the ECU calls for 25* BTDC if the tranny's not in neutral, or if the neutral switch has gone AWOL. If its the latter it also throws a code 54 fault. I guess the first question is: Was the car in neutral when the video was made?
There you go. Neutral switch is the missing link. No issue however. Cara's zed is the same. Benny C's too from memory...
