Hi i just completed a supersprint session with the AROCA today at eastern creek and thought i might post up some lap times. heres the link to the lap times times link it was my first time on eastern creek and i thought a 1:52 was a good lap time. The 1:49 was from my mate Evan who has done a fair bit of track work before. here a link to some pictures from the day if you like sideways then Check out page 15 at turn 9. heaps of photos of the Z there and at turn 5! sideways action Highlites of the day were posting the 6th and 16th fastest lap overall, not bad for an import that cost $13000 only slight technical problem was that she might go like stink off a stick but she sure as dosent stop very well in fact the brakes got so hot that they boiled the brake fluid, which incidentially reminds me to ask if anyone knows what the cheapest upgrade for the brakes on a 300zx would be? i was thinking of sourcing some GTR33 front calipers and trying to fit them, and maybe trying to put the front rotors and calipers on the back brakes if possible and rigging something up for the handbrake. currently the brake setup is stock except for slotted front rotors and bendex ultimates which were far from ultimate. if anyone has any suggestion for a brake setup them i would love to hear about it as when you are flying down the straight at 200+ and go to dab the brakes and the pedel hits the floor 3 times it kinda makes you aprehensive. so any advice would be greatly appreciated cheers from Andrew K
so does anyone have any brakes info that can help or alternatively does anyone else have any lap times for easten creek that they would like to share with the rest of the class?
i find that my DBA slotted rotors in combination with EBC Yellow Stuff pads stop just about as good as anything on the track, (in the amateur ranks anyway). Pete
Best thing to help braking is weight reduction ie remove anything unnecessary. this could be things like: passenger seat (only 4 bolts) subs/speakers/amps spare tyre also, what sort of brake fluid were you using? was it race fluid? if so, was the old fluid completely flushed?? Oversize rotors would help, but are pricey, I think a good package is on the UAS website with 324mm rotors that fit with existing caliper (using a bracket) better rear pads would also help. Bendix get mixed reviews from members, some like them for track and others don't. If you can afford it, definitely go the EBC Green or Redstuff. Hope this helps. Nice work at the track. Makes me wish we were having a track day in SA (HINT HINT SA PEOPLE!!! )
Thanks to those that replied you have gone along way to restore my faith in this forums ability to answer questions that dont involve the wiring up of my fully sik stereo head unit. just kidding guys
A few things I've found.......>> That work a treat are: Removal fo the front stone shield to allow more air flow. Regular replacement of brake fluid, especially before a big track day. Ultimates may be fine for a bit of spirited driving but on a high speed track you really do need a dedicated race pad. Something like an EBC yellow. Apart from that you can also try some ducting to bring temperatures down. Are we likely to see you out at Wakefield Park over easter at the Nationals?
Easter Nationals might have to wait for a while Cause i already told the girlfriend that i would take her to Jindabyne over easter, plus ive still got to fix the no stopping issue before i consider any more track work. also i would like to modify the suspension a bit along with better intercoolers (standard at the moment but was thinking of putting in some r33gtst intercoolers but dont know if they would fit? does anyone knoe if they would?) before i try anymore track work cause basically at the moment apart from the engine the car is stock. also and heres the big one i have not much money at the moment to spend on the z as im trying to save up a deposit on a house/apartment you may notice the tight ass factor in most of my comments. for me the whole track thing was just to see what times the car was capable of and to see how close i could get to the time of 1.46 by John from UAS with his big$ racing zed and having got a 1.49 with no brakes im quite happy with that time.
brake fluid used we just used standard brake fluid because we never thought that the brakes would get so hot after just 1 hard lap we thought she might have more stopping power but unfortunately we were proved wrong. why is race fluid better does it have a higher boiling point or something? yeah the braking solutions offered from different companies are fiarly high in there pricing i was lookign for a cheaper nissan swap alternative like from a gtr to a zed or something like that.
I'm from Victoria.....>> So NSW geography isn't my best subject but isn't Jindabyne within a days drive of Goulburn? Maybe cruise down on the Saturday to say hi and check out the cars at the show and shine. There was one type of intercooler from I think an RX7 that Tony (THZX) had modified to fit and saved him self some money but you would be better to check with him first. 3 seconds slower then the UAS car is a very nice time for a basicly stock car.
Good time Certainly up with the Skylines and even most GTR's. Would love to have you at our next track day Sunday 1st May at Wakefield as I kinda get out numbered by the GTR's. You can obviously drive and not just talk like some. Although 3 seconds is a long way. Kinda like a 12 second car and a 11 or 10 second car at the straight line thing. If you want brakes etc come see me and I will look after you.
Thanks for the offer John i might just check the bank budget and see whats the deal involved with doing a cheapish upgrade of the braking/intercooler situation. yeah i realize that 3 seconds is quite a large margin to bridge and if i never get any closer to your mark then i will feel very happy with car as it is, but who knows what might be possible if i threw more money/time at the situation? yeah john you have set the bar in terms of performance that the rest of us have to live up 2. cheers for the offer.
Nice work. As I ponder why there are two sets of rotors in my shed that are cracked from hub to edge, in my experience, and I think I work brakes harder than most *looks at avatar <----* I've found there are a few cheap ways to have more effective brakes. 1. You mention that your pedal goes to the floor at the end of the straight; ever heard of pad knockback before. Have a read HERE. Simply tapping the brake pedal while down the straight will bring the pads flush with the rotor surface giving you a firm pedal ready for its next application. 2. You may be frying your brakes because you are on them too long. Long medium applications generate far more heat than short hard applications of the brakes. I'm not saying you're a learner or a beginner (I've seen a national sports car champ suffer from this), but in most race classes, you see the beginners running out of brakes long before the experienced racers - this is because they are on the brake for far too long. 3. Change the brake fluid. Having boiled brake fluid gives a spongey and indirect feel. If doing track work at least go for a Dot5 fluid. I hear Caltex stuff is pretty good. I've used the Elf Dot5 racing fluid in the past and found it works great! 4. Have you got a brake master cylinder brace - having one fitted stops firewall flex and makes the pedal feel a million times better, not to mention a more direct application of the brakes. 5. Pads - I half disagree with ROB32Z. After having Bendix Ultimates I would not even bother with EBC Greens. They are on par with Bendix Ultimates and would be a waste of time IMO trying them. Personally I wouldn't go back to EBC, but if I did, I wouldn't go anything less than their Reds. Personal experience, Bendix Ultimates do the job when treated properly. I happily did four sets of four hard competitive laps at what is known as one of the highest speed and is the hardest on brakes track in Australia (Barbagallo Raceway in WA), even though the brakes were glowing and sparking, not once did I lose pedal feel or have the pedal go to the floor. Yes, my rotors are totally rooted now (had surface stress cracks in them before competition) but the pads and fluid (although will be changed before next track day) are still fine. I still have a firm pedal and great stopping power. Side note: whenever going new rotors - never ever ever get cross drilled rotors - the cross drills weaken the rotor too much; track work will definately get them hot enough to start warping and cracking thus shortening their life substantially. Before anyone mentions Porsche cross drills their rotors - have a look at a well used Porshe's rotors and ask the Carrera Cup guys how often rotors are replaced. ...Yes, they crack too! Hope this helps. If anyone disagrees on my points or can share a different light, I'm all ears!
YEAH SERIES 5 RX7 COOLERS ARE ALL ALLOY AND 2 TIMES the size of the stock ones and cost about $50 dollars from the wreckers each plus some alloy. Can also use Series 4 RX7 coolers but slightly less flow. Pay $100 and have the ends cut off and welded back on or if you want I can get a set done for you, like the ones I had done for mine. Cheap and good difference for about $300 all up. I cant wait to fit them just need the time just spent the week on my bloody clutch and fitting dumps. MattB
The HOONMOBILE I'm andys mate who did the 1:49, firstly I'd like to thank him for letting me drive it at the track, lots of fun. :thumbsup: And a 1:52 from someone who hadn't seen eastern creek before isn't too shabby either! The tyres we were running were DJ01 Dunlops on the fron and FALKEN RSV04 on the rear, both 245 section. Pads were Formula Ferodo (also know as DS2000) and DBA 4000 series rotors in the front. The thing weighs 1540kg and I was disappointed we had to take the sub out as music is so relaxing around the track. It's only got stock upper arms and had about 2 degrees of negative in the front so it understeered like a pig, and whos brilliant idea was it to make these things without a roof, it just about wound itself into a knot around turn 1. The brakes were woeful, had to brake about 200m out from turn 2, and the pedal hitting the floor comming into turn 1 with 220+ on board is an experience I won't forget in a hurry. Franz, it wasn't knockback, the fluid boiled!I've had about every brake problem on my own cars, from cracked rotors to setting the front callipers alight. This thing is way beyond the different pad and fluid stage. So there is the UAS setup, what else bolts on, i.e. R33 Brembos? Could really use some suggestions, keeping with the bang per buck the hoonmobile is delivering so far.
Brakes I went for the stoptec kit, its about the cheapest of the proper big brake kit upgrades available. It runs a 332x36 mm disc.click me
