I was having trouble with the cas and I ended up buying a brand new one through ebay. The company is called the import experts. The new one looked nice and shiny, but the problems have started again. I had the wiring inspected by an auto elec and they reckon that its okay. The idea occured to me that I had got a bad cas brand new. It would make sense and explain the symptoms. The only way I can think of testing it is to put it in someone elses car and check the ecu codes to see if mine shows up as faulty. Is there another way to do it? It is unlikely that the import experts deal in dodgey cas units, but I might have got a random bad one. Has anyone else ever heard of this problem? edit. can anyone else think of anything that would result in it looking like three different cas were broken? Thanks.
To some it would appear the fault may not have been diagnosed correctly. A classic example of "changing out parts" in an effort to rectify the problem. This now leads to "suspicion" that the replacement part could be faulty.
I understand the sense in your advice, but I am also asking for advice about the diagnosis of the problem. The original cas was showing an error in the ecu codes. The second cas was second hand through the forum and the third was brand new. There is still an error code for the cas. I disconnect the battery positive for half an hour and reconnect it and the cas error code is still there. When the car breaks down I get ignition lights but no cranking over of the starter motor. I play around with the plug for the cas and sooner or later I can start the engine again and drive. It just seems to break down more and more as time keeps ticking. Hitting a bump seems to initiate it. I'm quite happy to listen to any other diagnosis.
3 X CAS failing seems way to high to me, I would really be looking at other issues. If the cas is like the DET sensor its error code means the ECM is failing to recieve signals in their expected states, this means either CAS, wiring/plugs, or ECM. Having tried 3 CAS's I would not be looking there anymore
The more I think about it the more I think its not the CAS. 1st the cas is not part of the starter circuits - I have had my cas completely unplugged and I can still turn the engine over. if I read correct you can not do this when the fault is active. 2nd as I mentioned before 3 fault CAS units. dont go under any ladders or near a black cat.... that would be real bad luck. 3rd You mention that you "play around with the plug for the cas and sooner or later" the engine will start, I think that may be coincidence. Again when my CAS plug was falling off (the wire clip was not on there) it was very straight forward for it to push it back on and get the car going. Straight forward that is once I found the problem. I wonder if there is an poor earthing issue (is it possible something important is earthing through the CAS loom) or a main fusable link overheating and failing. let the system cool down abit and it all comes right. Something totally un related to the CAS.
When you disconnect the battery, always disconnect the negative terminal first. Where you mention hitting a bump seems to initiate the problem/s would indicate a loose or broken connection. The Factory Service Manual has the diagnostic procedures & specifications relating to fault codes & drivability issues.
I tried disconnecting the cas plug and you were right. The engine still turns over. It is not the cas. Where are the main fusable links?
As pointed out this is now spread over 3 different threads, While some of us have picked up on that, it is very plausible that others have not. following this thought, the comment about cleaning it is very much like those posted in other threads and while it has been dealt with the poster may not know. We understand this problem is hard on you, but there are people trying to help. I would also suggest pulling the actual clamps off the battery and having a good look inside them it is possible for corrosion to build up inside the clamp and make a bad connection to the battery, people often clean the battery posts but forget the inside of the clamp.
As mentioned even though your getting a CAS fault code the odds of you getting 3 faulty CAS units in a row are pretty high. But if that one i sold you proves to be faulty i will refund your $20. IF it was me having this problem i would have the ECCS wiring diagram out and be checking the continuty of the CAS wires between the CAS plug and ECU plugs. Disconect battery Unplug CAS Unplug ECU Connect multimeter to the same wire on the CAS and ECU plugs then move loom around to see if you can induce a break in the circuit. ECU Pins 50 51 52 59 60 The green wires are the cas signal wires to ECU pins 51 52 The white/black wire is a 12v power supply to the CAS and ECU pin 59 The black earth wire goes to the engine ground as well as ECU pins 50 60
Great piece of advice and explanatory diagram. My guess is that there is a problem in the wiring loom.
thanks guys. I was getting frustrated. I noticed that the battery cable connectors look a bit like they need replacing. i will give it a go tonight.
I know we all want the easy problems but Warren300s suggestion is a good one don't ignore it if you can not find an easy fix
Just reviewed what i posted last night and i missed 2 ECU pins. The 2 green CAS wires that go to pins 51, 52 T off and go to pins 41 and 42 as well , which can be seen in the diagram.
Furthering warrens post- if you follow the loom where the CAS, CTS, temp sensor and PTU wiring enter the main loom (beside the turbo intake pipe) you will notice a section where the taping is significantly larger than the rest. At this point, the CAS shielded wire is folded over. Untape this section and investigate it. 1. Set your multimeter to audible OHMS (belling out). When you have continuity in the circuit, your meter will make a beeping noise. 2. Test every individual cas wire from your new plug back to your ecu. Establish continuity (beeping) and open/close this loop. 3. When you're satisfied that the failure isnt in the particular wire you are testing, move on to the next and repeat.
I disconnected the cas and tried to turn the engine over. It turned over okay so I figured it is not the cas. It turns out that the battery needed replacing. I got it tested at autobarn and the girl said her tester showed that one of the signals was only about half strength. So the new battery is in and I will leave it on the charger overnight. Thanks for the advice guys. I was getting frustrated and stressed out.
Good stuff. Now once you have your new battery in check that there is a good charge comming from the alternator. before you start the car do a volt check on the battery. hopefully you should get between 12 and 13 volts. start the car and check the voltage again. it should be around 14 volts. if there is little or no increase in volts you need to look at the charging system. if you have to high a voltage 15 or more then it is possible you are over charging your battery as well. again you would need to check the alternator. If all is good chances and the chances are it will be then you probably had your battery die like many others do.
