Datascan results from my VG30DE.. Comments please!

flush=wank...good for block though

Chemical flushing is a wank.

It has NEVER, not even once worked for me.

Nothing beats removing the tanks and rodding the radiator.

I've evn removed radiators, taped them with 100 mile and hour tape to the exhaust and WOT revved the engine to blow 'crap' out....and it hasn't done anything compared to rodding.

Flushing is a 10 minute job that machanics can charge good money for....with little effort.

 

But if you dont give

Your engine a good reverse flush, after getting the rad rodded, any crap thats there goes straight back into the radiator, and all the good work is for F/A.

 

Re: But if you dont give

I am starting to think i should just go for a new radiator core. This radiator had fungus and all sorts of crap growing in it when I got the car (BHG). I was actually very disappointed when i learned that the original core had been used with new endcaps (even if it had been rodded at that time, its probably still pretty funky in there)

I got quoted around $200 for a new core by Mosman Radiators. How would that compare to getting the radiator 'Rodded'?


Btw, thanks for all the replies guys! This has got to be one of teh most knowlegeable boards i've been a member of!

 

Re: But if you dont give

That would be the part price? + labour! I broke the inlet pipe on my radiator, the end tank was $100+ fitting, so i went looking after market.ended up getting brand new stock radiator from a zedder chick in perth, who had brought the radiator for her manual tt, but decided to trade up to an auto, and had never fitted the it. She posted it on ebay and i got it for $280. See what the costs are for the new core fitted, and weigh it up against A/M prices, the cost of rodding
vairies if you take it out and put it back in, it should be a fair bit cheeper than a new core.

 

How do we get the block reverse powerflushed?

Any tech section with photos for rodding and powerflush?

 

Any good radiator shop can do this for you...->

PS: I replied to your question bout installing alarms and ZID's. Pls get back to me when you can.

 

Re: But if you dont give

Thats the problem with having one of the rarest imports in Australia (i have the only Cedric registered in NSW, and probably one of only 4-5 in the country - i've never heard of anyone else having one, but some people say they have 'seen one before')

When the top-tank needed to be replaced recently, i had to get a Pathfinder toptank modified to fit. I'm gonna bet i wont find another Cedric radiator in Australia! But i'll look at the ex-japan part prices...

 

Re: But if you dont give

Ok... So i went down to SuperCheap and bought 2 x 10" Electric thermo fans yesterday (20% off, couldnt resist!). Managed to fit them both to the front of the radiator (actually on the condensor, but you know what i mean), and i swear they look factory fitted :thumbsup:

I realise this is just a stop-gap measure, but so far it hasnt risen above 85 while driving around town and even gunning it a bit. With both turned on, combined with the clutchfan its enough to suck a thick piece of cardboard against the front grille and hold it there.

Hopefully it will hold up for my trip back to Sydney tonight (will do it late when it cools down a bit), so that i can get my radiator rodded/replaced when i get back home.

I also rigged up a very cheap digital temperature gauge; basically a digital voltmeter across the inputs of the temp gauge in the dash. The gauge is not accurate, but the readings on the voltmeter are (calibrated against the Consult Interface reading).

 

Just heard back from the Radiator Place...

And it turns out that the radiator was 60% blocked, and had lots of crap collected in the top

The wierd thing is that he says this blockage is clearly visible, and that it must have been blocked for a long time like this. So why the hell didnt the guy who replaced the top-tank (done during engine install) notice this? Or if he did notice, why didn't he offer to clean it? Would have preferred to do it then rather than all the hassles, stresses and extra costs that i have had over the last month!

So far:
Replaced Clutchfan which was probably fine to start with ($50... I think)

2 'chemical power flushes' (starting to doubt how much effort went into those) (free, thankfully)

2 x 10" Thermo fans ($80)

Consult Interface Connector so i can monitor temps (ok, so its a cool little device regardless... but still!) ($50)

Jaycar Digital Instrument Display kit to replace the Consult Interface + Laptop ($50)

Finally: Radiator rodding, cleanout, power flush (Dang, thats costing me $330 )


But if she runs cool from now on then its all worthwhile (and i'll know exactly how it is doing from now on!)