When it comes to computers I'm a deaf dumb and blind kid, named Tommy. You old blokes out there know what I'm talking about. The Who. Trying to learn How To, Download/operate the software and what to download what to buy and will my laptop with Windows 8 work with the software. I need to be educated on the whole thing please. I have my grandson on standby to teach me how to use it etc just have to have the correct techno stuff apparently, according to him. No laughing from the younger members please, or I will set the dogs on ya.
Hi firstly "Who are you" (old bloke gag) Seeing as you have a PC with Windows 8 shows you have a computer with enough power to run the software. Next does it have a USB port on the computer? (pictured below) Next you will need a cable to connect between the OBD port. (pictured below) and your USB port. Your OBD port will be in the drivers footwell, tucked on the side above the accelerator pedal. Its whats called a fly wire, as its not mounted in a panel for "easy access", but it will look like the picture but no mounting wings on the sides There are various types of cables out there. Some are a serial type connector, and will need a Serial to USB converter Most people get the ECU Talk cable Which comes with a driver software disk (software that translates between the computer and the cable) Setting the equipment up is the next lesson.
Who am I? A pin ball wizard that's Who. I saw them in '67 I think, in Wellington NZ and last year or maybe the year before in Brizzie. Thanks for that now lesson 2 is?
Grandson has downloaded the software I think and said I just need the cable. Very smart these whipper snipper's. (grandchildren) Ok, where do I get the cable from.
http://www.ecutalk.com/ You can buy just the cable or you can buy a screen which includes a cable (the cable with the screen needs the screen to be used). The standalone cable allows you to connect to consult on your laptop, the screen can be kept in your car and mounted somewhere to give you running diagnostics for various sensors and includes a trip meter and economy monitoring and then if you need more info or options you can plug the cable into your laptop and use consult.
I was on a"Magic Bus" when I saw them. Well, would you believe a ship. Good come back by the way. ECUTalk_v1.3.5.exe God for "My Generation" I'm learning something new. Let's see the comeback from that!
Now listen "Baba O' Riley" This is where it gets a little tricky. I saw you had ordered the ECU-Talk cable. It should also come with the software (free version). You need to find out what Comm port the ECU Talk cable will configure to in windows 8. Steps are 1. Open "Control Panel" (get grandson to help) 2. Then open Device manager. 3. then find "Ports (com & Lpt) Click on the > arrow to open up the list. 4. Take note of the Com Port the ECUTalk cable has configured itself. in my case it was Com 4 5. Close out of the Device Manager back to the Desktop of the computer. Next lesson will be plugging in to the car.
conscripting the next generation into Z cult Clever man, pretending to be lost on all this tech stuff to conscript the next generation
Okay "Uncle Kevin". I had a"fiddle about" whilst waiting for the cable to arrive. Checked plugs coil packs connectors Fi connectors etc all good. I think I would like to have lesson No 2 now please.
Just call me "Cousin Kevin". Ok, this will be "A Quick One". I hope while you had a "fiddle about", you did not disturb "Boris the Spider". 1. Once the software is installed on the laptop and you have your ECUTalk cable, plug the ODB end (usually grey) into the plug under the drivers side dash. Then plug the USB cable into the laptop. 2. Turn your ignition to the "On" position (do not start the car yet) 3. Run the software and select File - Settings 4. then select the Com Port that the ECUTalk cable configured to in my case it was Com Port 4 (previous lesson) Then click "OK" This should allow the Laptop to connect with the car's ECU and the software can now be used. You can now configure/use the software and start the car to get live information, do diagnostics, and read/clear error codes. I'll have to hand you over to someone else that has way more experience with ECUTalk for more on how to use the software. The main thing is getting connectivity right to the ECU. Physically plugged in cable - ignition to "On" position - Laptop software - Com Port setting. More information can be found at http://www.ecutalk.com/interface.aspx Hope this has been "Eyesight To The Blind", and its been an "Amazing Journey".
"Boris the spider" is fine. "Cousin Kevin" was surprised that we have to find a "Substitute" but going by your excellent instruction so far I'm sure I will be able to work through it. Thank You.
Your "Welcome". If it all works out you should be a "Happy Jack". It now "5-15" and I have to look at some "Pictures of Lily". Let us know how you went with the Consult software.
Hah "Who" needs grandchildren? Plugged it in following "Cousin Kevin's" excellent instructions and up comes all the information. Now what am I actually looking at here? Am I seeing the ECU data, actual data from the sensors or both? Is it possible to change the settings displayed? Only fault code was for the knock sensor and both the sensor and cable are new. I think once I have these answers l will be a "Happy Jack"
The knock sensor is a bummer, try clearing the code and see if it comes back. If the ECU can't find the knock sensor it goes into its knock map for safety, this limits boost to wastegate pressure, removes some ignition timing and increases fuel duty a bit. If the code comes back you'll have to either figure out where the problem is in the sensor/harness or bypass the sensor with a 1Mohm for a temporary fix. What you see in ECUtalk is like seeing through the eyes of the ECU, you're seeing what it thinks is real so you want that to match what is actually happening. For example if the ECU is giving a readout of 10 Celsius as your water temp when the engine is obviously at operating temp you would need to replace the temp sensor so that the ECU actually knows what temperature it is. As for ignition timing, the ECU recieves a pulse from the CAS, based on that pulse and when it wants the ignition to fire it will time its signal to the coilpack. The timing readout you get in consult is what the ECU wants the timing to be, if it doesn't match what your getting with a light on the pulley either the mark on the pulley is in the wrong place or the pulse from the CAS is set wrong and giving the ECU the wrong information. So long story short if the ECU gives you any readout that isn't what you're seeing in the physical world either a sensor or some system isn't setup/working properly.
Turned out that the knock sensor cable had become disconnected as a result of trying to find any vacuum leaks. Connected up cable and fault gone. Waiting on O2 sensors arrive and then we will see what the system says. Once I have fitted these I will see what the ECU readings are compared to actual.
Well that's the best you could have hoped for with a knock sensor code. Once you check where the timing is at you can get back to the original problem, if the old O2s were failing new ones will improve economy which will make your Z experience nicer.
