Hi Guys, I'm in middle of problematic choice of new clutch, maybe some of you have good experience or know how and can help me out with advise. Some of the following points are important: 1) New engine will make around 700rwkw 2) Clutch what can handle that power, 3) be very streetable, 4) handle hard lunches. 5) It needs to be quiet I have checked Carbonetics, RPS, Exedy, OS Giken twin or tripel plate carbon clutches but seems that all of them are extremly noisy. Has someone more experience with these clutches or knows other type of clutch what could work with my requirements. Cheers,
Extremely noisy is a bit of an exaggeration. I've driven and mucked about with quite a few cars with OS and Exedy twin plates. Sure they have a rattle when the clutch is in, but that's the price you pay for having a clutch that isn't like leg pressing 200kg and still holds the power. I have heard of AP multiplates being better than most for rattle, but as you can imagine you pay for them. 700kw, streetable, handle repeated hard launches and quite as a mouse isn't going to happen IMO.
This is going to be an interesting city car, I have a twin plate OS Giken in my track car, I would not like to drive through the city with it, not very noisy but like most HP clutches, it tends to grab once its hot.
As I've said before if you guys want a streetable, quiet twin plate get the Z1 or go directly to competition clutches and get it .
Sorry I'm stuck on the 700kw engine ..... And a clutch is your main concern .... ? Umm You will not be able to have a quiet clutch or drive train with that sort of engine set up. Do we have HP and kW mixed up?
Yes, quiet clutch is the problem. When I have put $$$$$ into engine then I don't want ratteling noise around the car. I will talk with AP and see what they have to offer. Single clutches from Jim Berry seem to be too extreme.
Have you researched your engine long? Or clutches and how they perform? To handle your proposed 700kw (900hp engine) you will NOT get a quiet drive line or clutch let alone engine. Hell your stock gearbox will even start winging at you if retaining that.
I know the driveline noises and all other noises, if possible will keep everything to the lowest level. There is big difference if noise is during driving or during standing still. I know very well how twin, triple, quad cluthces work and what makes the noise, but also every one of them have different noise level. I'v heard RPS carbon carbon and that was too much to accept. Yes it's a good clutch for this kind of power.
Dude, personally, I think your pulling your pud by having to ask such a question...However......... There isnt much around designed for that kind of power that will bolt on to a stock sized flywheel which you wont be using anyway.... along with the stock gearbox you have already gotten rid of..... right? No single, twin plate or possibly most 3 plate will live long launching that kind of powah AND be streetable, quiet and anything less than a leg operated bullworker at the same time. Your talking at least a 5 plate clutch, a custom flywheel button and a good flexplate to carry the starter ringear at the kind of RPM necessary to get withing a bulls roar of 1000 big ones with any driveability whatsoever. Go talk to Tilton or AP. Someone like that who actually make tough clutches for the likes of Indy cars, F1 cars, Le-Mans racers and other high Hp GT type cars up to about 1500Hp. A good friend uses a Tilton 5" x 5 plate clutch on a turbo/supercharged Ford Pinto 2.3. This animal makes around 700Hp at the treads and the clutch is light and progressive and tolerates street driving and decent launching. Your going to part with a fair whack of gold tho. One thing your not going to get past is clutch noise stationary and in gear so get over it and stop dreaming about having that kind of powah AND the thing stooging around like a kitten all nice and quiet like. It will be an angry, lumpy, raucous 9000rpm engine. Harshly cackling away on solid lifters riding over cam lobes youll have trouble jumping over without a pogostick with almost NON-existent flywheel howling thru a straight-cut gearbox. If you think your going to get one large of horsies at any sane kind of rpm then you are seriously deluded. Go auto like the pros with a 4 link 9" diff! Is what your going to need to keep it all together with any sense of surety. And your concerned about clutch rattles....... sheesh!!! Heheheheheh!!!! E
try extreme stage 2 or triple, wont regret, my second gear can handle to 125 k/h mind u i have a light weight flywheel
Three are plenty of sub 10 second RBs running Jim Berry singles. I don't know how much power it takes to get a VL into the 9s but gotta be a bit. The clutches are quiet at idle and smooth enough for driving to the shops. Zed gearbox can take a lot of power too.
oh look what we have here. 8 second h pattern (standard FS5R30A R33 gearbox) gearbox vl....with a jim berry clutch.....lifts the wheels in first and second...jim berry will hold http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wUnj_nPPSkA but no point upgrading man just do an engine transplant to NA as they are faster at everything dude
It's wonderful Procky that you can think, keep it up. AP offers only agressive racing clutches Tilton has clutches for what can handle high Nm and deliver smooth engagement. They're 2 plate clutch can handle more then needed. Price is $4000, what isn't too much for quality product. Also needed is custom flywheel from them. Had a change today to play little bit in R32 GTR with ~450rwkw. It uses OS Giken 3 plate carbon carbon clutch. Had very low rattle noise when clutch was pressed and smooth engagement. No problems with little slipping. At start will stay original gearbox, but keeping eye out for used H6 S. Thank you some of the people who managed to stay on topic and shared they're experience and knowledge. I managed to get enough information.
