The Clutch was going to the floor more than it should the other day so I decide to bleed it. This is the procedure me and my mate were doing. I hope we were doing somthing wrong so we can do it right! Ok we jacked up the car...made sure the fluid was full. My mate started pumping about 10 times then held it to the floor. I underneath the car, with clear tubing attached, cracked the nipple near the tranny half a turn...let the air/fluid squirt out a tad then sealed it. We repeated this process about 10 times....The pressure on the pedal was getting back to perfect. Fluid was maintained and never let to low during. Since we had clear tubing attached we could see the air bubbles coming out...and the last couple of repeats it was just solid fluid NO bubbles at all. But we LOST ALL pressure and the clutch is now on the floor with nothing there. There is no Air in the system at all from what I believe but im willing to try it again to be sure. BUT I DID NOTICE somthing that isnt acting normal. Near the tranny where the bleed nipple is, there is a rod that pumps in and out about 3cm towards the rear end of the car side on the part the bleed nipple is on. When we were getting pressure this was moving in and out with the clutch movements.....since we lost all pressure this rod is now NOT moving. Is this unit called the slave cylinder??? and since the rod isnt moving is it possibly DEAD??? Can somone please give a opinion or an insight....maybe we might be doing somthing wrong or maybe the slave??? is dead? Cheers guys!
With my limited understanding of such things, I can tell you that yes that rod is part of the slave cylinder and is the thing the disengages the clutch. It's no surprise it's not moving if you've lost all clutch pressure as this is thing the clutch pressure is there to move. As far as bleeding an hydraulic system goes, I've never done it so can't be much help there, but I believe the Z32 has 2 points in its clutch system that has to bled. My guess is you've still got air in the system. Try moving the slave cylinder by hand, if there's a lot of air in the system it should bubble out the master cylinder and give you some clutch pressure back, then you can try bleeding it properly again.
Yes correct 2 points i think! One near the hicas solinoid! i've bled that too....that was the most time consuming part...alot of air in that one!.. I'll try pumping it by hand tho see what happens!
There are two possibilities. 1: The Slave Cylinder is stuffed and needs replacing, 2: The Clutch Master Cylinder is stuffed and needs repair/replacing. Have you tried to bleed the system at the front Bleed Nipple located on the drivers side inner front guard(near the HICAS Solenoid)? Because the M/Cyl fluid reservoir is very small, you need to be sure you don't let it get too low during this bleeding process, or you can get more air back into the system.
There is a third option: 3. Rubber clutch hose is leaking (I replaced mine last week). Since he doesn't mention (brake) clutch fluid on the slave cylinder or in the vicinity, my guess is option 2. If the master cylinder is leaking, there will most likely be clutch (brake) fluid on the inside of the firewall (up behind the clutch pedal).
My master cylinder was replaced... And slave replaced....as they both failed bout a year ago!. It seems funny how I had pressure and all of a sudden its all gone?? Which hose are you refering too?? Pic maybe?? They only reason why I had to bleed it was I had not checked the fluid level in a GOOD while and it was past the hole at the bottom so air got in. Any more suggestions?? I've read about a theory to bleed the clutch by ya self (1 person). You use a pump oil can. Attach sum hose to the end of the can. Attach the hose to the nipple. Depress the pump, open the valve, let the pump up....sucks the fluid....seal the nipple...and do it all over again??.....rekkon that will work??
The rubber hose is the one between the slave and the hardpipe that goes to the master. If your looking at the slave you can't miss it. If you have a NA there are actually 3 bleed points, your TT might have a NA master. The 3 points are: Master Slave Near the headlight. The Z32 clutch system is notoriously nasty to bleed and I've heard if the front of the car is jacked up high it can help with getting all the air out, specially on the Z's with only two bleed points. The Master resivour is very small, make sure it doesn't get low, about 2 bleeds and it's empty...
ok i think its outta my amature hands.... I've been bleeding for 2 days straight now....and still no luck...air still in the lines...i think i've been though about 4 litres so far!...DAMMit lol off to the mechanics.
How did you go with the clutch? Thinking of doing mine as the point of activation is getting close to the floor..
mate chilli is right... check the R/H under bonnet.. near the strut tower... where all the hicas bullsht is. theres a dark gold hose with a nipple in it... this bleeds the system from the top.. forcing air down.. then bleed master.. then bleed the slave... shoudl be fine... really strange that upper bleed valve...:bash: :bash: i had to argue with my mechanic to tell him it was connected to the pressure system :bash: good luck
Try This: I've done mine quite a few times, and the last time I had real trouble getting it right. Neverhad a problem before, anyways, I thought I'd try bleeding it with the engine running, bleeding at both points, and it worked. I figured with the engine running it must have made some difference having some vacuum assist at the master cylinder.
http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=797273&forum=technical&dtSearch=0 Fsm states how 2 do it aswell on page CL-8
I had this same problem. I even took it to a mechanic and they had no idea. I know the answer to my clutch problem sounds silly and simple. Just before bleeding, don't just pump it and then push hard down and wait for it to drop after bleeding. All I did was pump the pedal and then hold it just off the floor (not hard but not letting it go backwards to let air back in) and then pushed it all the way during bleeding (both locations). This worked for me everytime I had this problem. Hope this works. If not, it might be a torn vacuum diaphram for the booster. Good luck. Ben
Simplify Get rid of the factory Nissan heavy brass junction box and hard pipes in engine bay that makes bleeding this system and right ain in the a.... Get a braided hose and go straight from master to slave. This not only lightens the car a little but makes bleeding the system much quicker and easier. I have also gets rid of the Nissan Soft clutch system which has a valve acting as a dampener. It has a valve in this brass junction box and bottom line it delays the reaction of the clutch operation. For normal road use it is ok but fast and big revving cars, especially at the track where you want to change gears fast, the factory set up is not so good.
Do this.... you need to do a VACCUUM BLEED. find a compressor that has a suction/vaccuum switch like some small 12v electric compressors have this (if you don't have one, maybe your mechanic has one) and connect the hose fitting to the bleed valve near the HICAS stuff in your engine bay, then vaccuum the air out till a solid stream of fluid comes through. I've had this problem before and this fixes it every time.
Manual clutch bleeding... Several things work well.... - First thing I do is remove the slave bleed valve and just let the fluid drip. Wait for the fluid to go from plop/plop to a steady stream and re-install the valve. Make sure the top side reservoir doesn't run out of fluid when doing this!!!! - I like speed bleeder valves - very easy when doing this alone. Attach a clear hose to the slave (speed bleeder valve) and then pump a few times on the clutch pedal - should be very little air bubbles now in the clear hose. - Close up the speed bleeder valve on the slave and wait for 30 mins or so. Let's the air bubbles rise to the engine bleed point up on top. - Install speed bleeder valve up on top, attach clear hose and start pumping the clutch pedal. Wait a bit and repeat. Will take a few times for the line to clear out. - As a double check, go back down to the bottom and repeat with a clear hose connected. It should be clear of all bubbles - but worth checking a last time. - After a drive, you can check the top point again -- sometimes you'll get a few little bubbles... PS - I've had speed bleeder valves the won't totally seal up. Always check them a day or so later (for any leaks) - had this problem up in the engine bay so I just reinstalled the old regular valve after I was done using the speed bleeder. Some folks have ruined nice wheels due to brake speed bleeder leaks - so always pays to check them!!!
