Charging issues

Discussion in 'Technical' started by OZX_320, Nov 12, 2011.

  1. OZX_320

    OZX_320 Detachable Member

    Recently replaced the weeping Power Steering hose with a proper J-hose. Took the chance and degreased my lower engine afterwards, including the alternator.
    Unfortunately, ECUTalk showed voltages below acceptable afterwards (about 11.9-12.2V)
    Have since:-
    * Replaced alternator with near new known working unit
    * New alternator belt. Has required retensioning
    * New 615CCA Battery
    * Checked tension on all alternator connectors
    * Checked fuse in engine bay relay board and blue Battery Fusible Link
    * Checked tension on harness going to alternator
    * Battery Terminals checked for clean and tensioned
    * Main earths checked

    Problem is, when first started, voltage is steady at 13.8V, drops to 12.2-12.5V when dual thermos kick in, then 11.8-11.9V with headlights on. Turn the stereo on and it slowly drops to 9.8V at which the HID's flicker and the head unit drops out. Never had this issue prior with voltages under load, and running outta ideas.

    Suggestions?
     
  2. WazTTed

    WazTTed Grease Monkey

    check current draw with everything turned off. all doors closed and boot closed. id say you have a parasitic drain. mine had a bum alternator and also the battery backup in my alarm started sucking the power...
     
  3. OZX_320

    OZX_320 Detachable Member

    Issue isn't with battery draining with key off, its with alternator producing insufficient voltages under load. Previous voltage was minumum 12.8V
    Unsure if replacement alternator is TT or NA, but calculated load is between 50-60A. Idle speed fluctuates between 780-800RPM. Understanding is that alternator should retain voltages around 13V on idle.

    Should have known this was going to happen..... add more parts and something previously done is bound to f$%k up
     
  4. Chrispy

    Chrispy Pretentious Upstart

    Does the voltage pick up with a increase in revs?
     
  5. East Coast Z

    East Coast Z Well-Known Member

    You need an ampmeter to test the current draw.
    It sounds as though the alternator can't supply enough amperage.
     
  6. rob260

    rob260 Administrator Staff Member

    Time for new alternator...
     

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