I can't get my bonnet to stop squeaking. I've replaced the two rubbers and wound em out so far the bonnets no longer flush with the guards. The only thing that stops it is wd-40 on the latch but that only lasts till it rains or it gets a wash
Use dry lubricant stick Dry lube the latch.. it should last about 3-6 months. not permanent but it works. Wind the rubbers back in so the bonnet sits flush with the guards.. re adjust the latch if needed. This is just what worked for me.. the squeak was driving me nutz!
What you need to do is go to Supercheap (or similar) and purchase some Self-amalgamating tape. Don't know what the heck that is? Well google it. Best thing to always have in your toolbox for any jobs. So take a wee but if the tape an simply wrap it around the latch (on the bonnet). Now you don't want it too 'fat' with tape, you want to aim for about a single layer or two of tape wrapped around the latch (you will see where to wrap around because you'll see wear marks). It will last for a damn long time, and being a self-amalgamating tape it will never let go of itself. Bear in mind however, it does depend in how often you open and close your bonnet. I run it on mine and don't have to replace it too often. I do open and close my hood a far bit because I'm a freak with keeping the bay clean I've even fixed some squeaky bonnets at cruises Anyway have fun with that....I'm out
I second this - grease wont wash away with rain - I used to have a squeaky latch a year ago - the grease has worked for me ever since!
Latch adjustment Jabba... Sorry about the delay to answer your Q.. I was offline for a while. Best thing to remember - adjust the latch only as a last resort.. if you have excessive play etc There will normally be a little bit of vertical movement on the front of the bonnet - if you press down on the middle of the leading edge - this is normal. I had to adjust mine because it was out of whack and there was a lot of vertical movement which made the squeaking even worse. .. you may not have to do this at all. You can adjust the latch by undoing the bolts at the front of the latch assembly - you'll spot them behind the large T piece inlet pipe from the air filter assembly. There are 4 bolts on the entire assembly - but I have not done this for a while so I cant remember which bolts are for what etc. you will have both vertical and horizontal movement when you loosen the bolts Also, I was going to suggest some type of thin tubing to wrap around the hook - but what 8300zx9 above said is actually the best method. I just preferred to use dry lube - I keep a tube handy in the garage for lubing the locks and strikers etc. BTW, Here's an extract from the service manual (FSM) about the hood lock / latch adjustment. Hood lock adjustment-------------------. ? Adjust lock so that hood primary lock meshes at a position where hood is 1 to 1.5 mm (0.039 to 0.059 in) lower than fender. ? After hood lock adjustment, adjust bumper rubber. ? When securing hood lock, ensure it does not tilt. Striker must be positioned at the center of hood primary lock. ? After adjustment, ensure that hood primary and secondary lock operate properly. Cheers Chris
Jabba don't use WD40 as a lubricant. It will wash away from rain because it is a thin penetrating oil designed to breakdown hardened greasy sludge (by penetrating the grease part). Grease is thick and it will last a while. I had a squeaky hatch (on a Toyota) and grease worked for a while. I eventually found that a spring in the latch mechanism had snapped. I put a spring in a more accessible place and it made the hatch movement less, the grease lasted longer, the combination of both stopped the problem. Try adjusting the latch mechanism and use sprung washers and sealant to tighten it up. The bonding tape is also a good idea because the hook has probably got a worn spot on it now.
