There are different types of 370z rims, like these ones http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z373/waldosgm/IMG_0586.jpg But unless you want too really roll the guards or widen your body they would look good on a 300zx. I got a set for mine, but don't want too widen the body on mine.
That's the second generation, there is also a nismo version aswell. i still dont think they suit the 300 shape.
Ok, so the window tint on the car was dirty and scratched. There only seemed to be tint on the passenger side window and the hatch glass. It was a clear film, though moisture would get under the tint and you couldn't see out at all. I tried different methods of getting the tint off. It took two days to get it off. I used the steaming trick first, it worked reasonably well, though the tint was tearing into small pieces on the hatch glass. So i was getting burnt from the steam, from the condensation water dripping down. Only got a small strip off as per the photos above. So i gave up on that idea. Next was the next day. Black plastic bag, ammonia and hot sunlight. This was definately effective, and the easiest to do. The quater window tint came off in one piece. I really wasnt expecting the side windows to work. The hatch glass was a different story. Same thing was happening. The tint was coming off and breaking into small pieces. The ammonia was loosing the glue, though the tint was tearing and not coming off in big sheets. So i swapped for a razor blade, and slowly stripped the tint off section at a time. Once done i cleaned it with window cleaner and clay barred it aswell. Finished result So much better.
so I've been trying too find an old school alpine radio to put into my car. I have a collection of alpine gear, though it's all comp gear. The car came with a crappy sony xplod. oh boring. and it wasn't even bolted in. Anyway, the plan is to put a comp system in it eventually. I am working on a double din setup aswell, though that's not going so well at the moment. Anyway, I found a reasonable alpine head deck to use, $30 bucks and the deal was done. The wiring is a mess in the dash area. I chopped and remade my own harness. Cleaned up alot of the wiring. There's also a GFB boost controller in there with 500mtrs of loose wiring. complete shambles. Anyway. lets start installing these decks! A correctly built harness. I've setup my radios like a cartridge system. So i can unplug and swap to one of the other cars via two plugs. That way i can change for looks, put the radio on the test bench, swap for an upcoming comp etc etc. A clean install is the safest install.
Something happened to the post i made. I stole another component from another car to fill the dash properly. The setup is a basic cd player linked to a minidisc player. no mp3/bluetooth crap in my cars. Here is the finished setup. I have a comp setup to put in this car for some comp shenanigans, though that's a later on project. I do like the look of this setup, though i do have a bad habit of collecting old school alpine gear. So if you have something, let me know.
I think the same experts worked on my car.sounds identical except to my drivers side. Must be a Victorian thing.
Does anybody know what this ecu is or may refer to? Manual twin turbo ecu. does this refer to a tuner? or maybe was held for a person to buy and their name was written on it to keep it on hold?
Actually, you might be on to something? The car is from victoria. so maybe it could be something along those lines?
It's like winning the lotto, without knowing it. The potential is there, though never learning of it. So yes,it could matter.
This is the 300zx ecu list , and according too the list it's for TT Manual 23710- 41P02 (89/08 - 89/11) For TT MT 23710- 41P01 (89/07 - 89/08) 23710- 41P03 (89/11 - 90/08) 23710- 41P04 (90/08 - 92/08) 23710- 46P60 (92/08 - 93/09) 23710- 48P71 (93/09 - 94/10) 23710- 51P60 (94/10 -) For TT AT 23710- 41P11 (89/07 - 89/08) 23710- 41P12 (89/08 - 89/11) 23710- 41P13 (89/11 - 90/08) 23710- 41P14 (90/08 - 92/08) 23710- 46P65 (92/08 - 93/09) 23710- 48P76 (93/09 - 94/10) 23710- 51P65 (94/10 - 98/10) 23710- 51P66 (98/10 -) For NA MT 23710- 40P00 (89/07 - 90/08) 23710- 40P01 (90/08 - 92/08) 23710- 46P00 (92/08 - 93/09) 23710- 49P61 (93/09 - 94/06) 23710- 49P62 (94/06 - 94/10) 23710- 53P00 (94/10 - 97/01) 23710- 53P00 (97/01 - 98/10) For NA AT 23710- 40P10 (89/07 - 89/11) 23710- 40P11 (89/11 - 90/03) 23710- 40P12 (90/03 - 90/08) 23710- 40P13 (90/08 - 92/08) 23710- 46P05 (92/08 - 93/09) 23710- 49P66 (93/09 - 94/05) 23710- 49P67 (94/05 - 94/10) 23710- 53P05 (97/01 - 98/10) 23710- 53P06 (98/10)
SAM 553 was more what I was refering to. Continuing on with the detailing. I did a few test sections with my tailights a while ago. These are 50/50 shots when i did them a few weeks ago. So I decided to finish them off. when ever using an abrassive on a panel always mask the edge of the opposite panel. This is masked ready to go. This is midway And the finished results Cristal clean again. I'll be starting on the paint correction work shortly.
Here's a random shot. Showing That this beast gets driven as my daily every day. Me heading off to the bread and butter factory.
Has anyone got photo's of there bov setups? I'll be attacking them eventually and want some visual ideas to think about.
California gold headlight restoration kit. With a lambswool pad. You must keep the heat down on plastics. These felt specially soft under the lambswool.
I've just finished a paint correction on my car. I'ts taken all up roughly 25hrs over a week period. I;m not sure what my car has been painted with, its super soft, just doing the blue steel look at the car makes it scratch. I'm thikng its possibly an acrylic enamel/eurothane or water based 2 pac. I was getting black pigment on my buffing pads, so i believe its a probably a single pack single stage coating. Here are some before and afters. I did't really take before's, so these are old photos. Before. The paint is covered in scratches and marring all over. Wasn't pretty. *Photobucket is stupid* After Jump into the detailing thread to see how I transformed it to get ideas for your cars.
So the drivers door hinges were slack and needed replacing. Heres how i did it. start with plenty of space Most people would remove guards etc etc..thats too much work for me. so I did it this way Obviously release the swing limiter first, then unbolt the door off the hinges. Use the jack to hold the door. Put it on the blance ponit. Jack it up to take the weight, as this will help to put the door back straight back on easily. Once the door is off, tape up the edges of the guard and doors to stop scratching the panels. use plenty of masking tape. Remove the hinges, there is a top and bottom remember. The doors have sealant to water seal the hinges. When removed from the car there is a small nub that remains, i kept these on the car to realign the new hinges so i wouldnt have to muck around with realingment. I panted to bare metal with killrust, and the hinges aswell. Next is to bolt the door hinges back on and bolt the door to the hinges and reconnect the swing restrictor. I havent got a finishing photo, i got carried away and started detailing my car.
