Firstly unless yours is currently broken, damaged or leaking you won't need to, or unless its a track built/drag built car. Stock oil temp cooler will do the job fine for a street driven / weekender car. I mean if you want to by all means spend the money and "upgrade" it. However it will be a unnecessary expenditure you could have used for servicing or other mods
Maybe an appropriate sized accessory fan mounted behind to sucm air through when you are stationary/in traffic.
Basically, a larger oil cooler is more efficient at removing heat from the oil. Excessive heat will reduce the life of the oil. If you were inclined to install an aftermarket oil cooler, the stock cooler can be left in situ & the additional cooler mounted in front of it & plumbed back to the oil filter location.
why wouldn't you just replace the stock with a bigger 19 row using the same lines . . less busy of a setup
Funny you say that.......... Flat black paint increases the thermal emmissivity of metals & highly polished surfaces reduces it.
In a TT, if you're running more boost it is definitely a worthwhile mod. I'm actually running two stock coolers with one feeding the other and then back into the engine. Oil temp sits between 80-95 degrees.
The stock oil cooler isn't always circulating oil, it only flows when the oil pressure is high enough to open a bypass valve in the filter tree. If you wanted to make it flow more look into a sandwitch adapter with a thermostatic on/off switch that goes between the tree and filter. That way, all the oil going through the oil filter is being fed through the cooler first.
Mine don't move to much when I've givin mine a hard time. ? If I was to upgrade is put the larger one in place of the stock one (assuming it fit in with all the shit I have in there ATM)
Run it hard As Rob says, run it hard on boost for a few laps and watch the temps climb, . these are good figures for a well maintained system, 90 water temps, 110 oil temps and that is with a larger aftermarket oil cooler after half a dozen laps at Eastern Creek.
Yes, dark absorbs more of the spectrum (IR) we know as heat and light colour reflects some of that. But you know that is half the story. The heat that you are trying to exchange with the air is coming from the oil inside, so tbe inside surface of the oil cooler, make that black lol, it doesn't matter what colour the outside surface is, but any paint will be like some insulation and make the heat exchange less efficient. Oxidation layer is also like an insulation layer. So an anodised surface would be the best, polished also good. Most efficient (not best) metal for exchanging heat is copper.
You use a thermal dispersant coating that is black not normal paints. But yes other wise leave them raw /polished.
Stretching a couple of gears on the street isn't giving it a hard time . Also the higher the horsepower the more increase in heat. I see mine go from 90 to 100 in minutes after continuous redlining(But thats without any coolers yet )
ANY oil coolers are only necessary IF oil temps are not within limits. Track car absolutely. Drag car not necessary. Road car perhaps if used towing a caravan in summer at highway speeds!!! By far and away the best "cooler" option is a full flow water/ oil heat exchanger which acts as an oil heater at low oil temps/warmup! E
