Well, either way I'm confident of something around the 280-300 mark and so're UAS. We'll see what happens. No issues so far. It's not right up against the body, there's still about an inch of clearance. I was planning to line the chassis with heat reflector if there were issues. As is I probably still will do that to the starter motor heat shield because it's just about right up against the test pipe.
Dyno Dynamics are way more susceptible to operator manipulation than mainline. Also the dyno at (which is what a lot of these comparisons are based on) dies not have a 6F mode for forced induction. Ben who tuned many cars there over a long time tuned in 6, which reads lower than 6F. Dave who tunes there now seems to use 8, which reads higher than 6F. All of these things count when comparing different cars tuned by different operators on different dynos in different states.
Any guesses on what the numbers would read on a dyno dynamics? Someone host a dyno day in qld. Hijacking Antis thread a bit... Sorry man.
Also matters where you put the air temp sense . UAS used to put it pre throttle body which reads higher .Dave wont do that anymore and leaves it at ambient.. and he tunes on shoot 6 . not that much difference between 6 and 8
I'm just curious with all these people saying 250kw on stock injectors, turbos and 14 PSI if mine would even crack 220 on these supposedly happy dyno dynamics machines. Merely to satisfy my own curiosity. There's nothing wrong with my car, it runs perfectly.
Lots of factors eh -not throwing stones (and I hope nobody reads it that way). Re 8/6 just commenting on dyno charts that have been uploaded lately and info from dyno dynamics re shoot modes and how they read. Anyway point is not which is "better" but the fact that there are lots of factors that make comparisons just a little redundant...
I agree .. always said comparing peak figures with all these different factors is a wank . not after the australasian record ok Anti ..carry on with your build
That shot was at newz' place yesterday when we fixed up an issue with my sound system and parking light circuit. both perfect now! another recent pic: car is getting raised at the rear and some camber taken out. -A
everyday I'm a) ****ing bitches b) getting money c) fixing scrubbing Been having constant scrubbing problems on the front right. First it was the OEM reusable cable ties being too chunky, then the old tape on the loom causing the conduit to bulge out, then what's left of the fender liner about a million times. Cracked the shits with it today and pulled the whole lot out of the top of the fender and re did it all. The loom was much wider than necessary due to the degraded tape on it allowing the conduit to loosen up. I re taped it tight again and pulled the fender off to best affix it to the fender well. Putting a couple of holes in the top outermost sides of the engine bay meant I could zip tie the loom to the highest possible point. Yes, I only had yellow tape and white cable ties The loom and all associated bits now sits a solid 4mm above the bottom lip of the recess. I'm not sure if there's anyone else in Aus that's had this problem and would benefit from these pictures but hey there's a chance! The washer lines sit tied above the trimmed ends of the white ties. All back together and around the block a few times, no more scrubbing Feels good to do it properly, haha. -A
Put in for another $500 or so of parts from CZP yesterday. - Rubber shift boot - Z1 black gauge rings, these will match the VeilSide gauges almost perfectly - VCT plugs, one of the last I haven't already replaced. If you have any issues with your loom, doing a wire tuck will sure show you them haha. - Energy Suspension front sway bar bushings - Energy Suspension rear sway bar bushings - A pair of rear tie rods. One of mine is cactus so the pair are going. OEM lasted me 24 years so no cheaping out on after market replacements here. - While I'm there the outer ball joints can go too. There's nothing wrong with my current ones despite their age but that's like saying my 100 year old parent is healthy. - Brake master cylinder brace. I had an ugly one I sold when I started the tuck and forgot all about just how effective they are. Last thing missing from my brake upgrade. - Currently the only part of my intake that is still rubber - Random trim crap 1 - Random trim crap 2 - Random trim crap 3 - Random trim crap 4 - Random trim crap 5 - Random trim crap 6 Still more I need to get but I had to cut back the list so I could afford it, haha. Super keen on some SPL front tie rod ends (and some replacement front tie rods while I'm there) and a few other bits but they'll have to wait. -A
Are you dyno running with your wheels ? I'm going to hazard a conservative guess of 285rwkw assuming your AFR are all ok . Good luck I look forward to results
and bang goes the motor Hit the dyno at UAS on Tuesday and blew the engine. Started out well, initial calibration was a breeze thanks to the VPC ("it's awesome! the signal coming out of it is way more stable than an AFM"). We did 29 runs over about an hour and a half. First run 174.9 kw then 215.6, 255.2, 264.8, 278.0, 281.4, 284.7 then final figure of 288. On the run after 288, the dipstick blew out under load and oil shot all over the bay and dyno room. The ring land on cylinder 6 disintegrated, meaning a lot of blow by past the cylinder pushing the dipstick out. We put a camera down into the bore to confirm. It turns out they were using no knock detection at all - no light, microphone, nothing. Just listening from the driver's seat. If I knew this was going to be the case I never would have handed over the keys. There's one way to destroy ring lands, and that's by pinging... So, I'm gutted. Car was nearly done just needing paint last. Now it's going to be off the road again for probably six months while I save for a rebuilt engine. To boot, I lost my job the day before this happened haha. Interesting note about the VPC. It worked great, but it only has a one bar sensor on it - so it can only read up to 14 PSI. Going to 20 PSI as we did was still possible I was assured. I know there are big power builds in Japan running VPC's, so I'm going to look into replacing the sensor with a 2 bar unit. If that doesn't work out I guess I'll have to swap to Selin. -A
Oh my That sucks a fat one Surprised at no knock detection while tuning a mild engine to that sort of power.
Am I reading that right. UAS didnt use ANY knock detection? Is that how they tune the slotcar? What exactly were they tuning? Just the fuel AFR.. and hoping the timing and pinging will be 'she`ll be rite mate'. Thats a major setback, sorry to hear.
