Went for a drive up mt Wellington and there was smoke coming out off the back of the engine when we got to the top. Now the transmission fluid is black/brown in color. Normal acceleration & gear changes seem to still work ok, but if I go WOT the engine revs to redline but the car acts like I've got it in neutral. Is there a chance that changing the fluid will fix the problem, or is it something more serious?
what condition is your trans cooler in? i dont know if it will fix the problem but get the box checked out. if ou service it, make sure the fluid AND filter are both changed and while your at it check the cooler... for and auto it will be int he radiator....for a manual it will be external to the radiator
Can any mechanic change the fluid/filter & check it all out or do I need to take it to a Zed specialist? I'm in Hobart at the moment.
any decent mech should be able to do it mate. do you have any gearbox specialists near by? maybe get them to take a sneak peak...
I'm down here from Melbourne for a conference, so I have no idea what I have nearby. I've started another thread asking for mechanic recomendations in Hobart.
Automotive Automatics 134 Harrington St Hobart, TAS 7000 (03) 6234 4569 I've never used them, so can't comment on service.
Changing the oil and filter in an auto Z is no different to most cars. Simple exercise of dropping the pan and replacing the filter then refilling with oil. I would seriously try and find a transmission place and get them to power flush the transmission. When a general service is performed, there is a lot of oil in the torque converter and transmission cooler that does not get replaced. Auto Tranny oil that is not a translucent red colour is a sure indication a big repair bill in the near future, especially when it has that aweful burnt aroma. BTW flame, good to see you still around
Straight out of Zoom Magazine Fluid integrity, the biggest enemy of automatic transmissions is dirty and burned fluid. this can cause all sorts of problems with shift quality, particularly if the fluid level is low, invest in a transmission flush and refill with at a minium factory fluid. Always check fluid compatability before adding anything to your auto, as there are many different types. Cool school, burning and degrading the transmission oil in the first place is the fact that when driven hard auto trans make a lot of heat. The key to keeping an auto shifting precisely and sharply is keeping this fluid cool. Fitting an aftermarket auto trans cooler is simplicity itself especially in the Zed, take the two oil lines into the radiator and connect them to the after market cooler.
I had the transmission serviced in Hobart and I asked them to check the filter and cooler. $160 later, the fluid is still burnt, and the problems are worse. She was revving really high before changing gears and wouldn't stay in overdrive. About 700k later, and now gear changes are completely screwed: Most of the time it seems like she won't change out of 1st gear. Revs go up to 6k - 7k and she struggles to get to 40, I back off the accelerator, she changes into overdrive and the revs drop down to around 1k. Back on the accelerator and the revs go up but the speed doesn't change. If I go WOT it's like she's going into neutral. Every now and then if I give the accelerator a thump (but not WOT) she will actually accelerate. After that she may or may not change to a higher gear. When she changes gear I can actually do 60 or 80 but she keeps changing in and out of over drive. I checked the TPS voltage, 440mv at idle and 4040mv at WOT. I tried to do a transmission check but I don't get a transmission check light coming on at all (I think the bulb may be blown?). So, the question... Should I start digging a hole to bury my transmission in ? Or is there some hope? I'm back in Melbourne now (Glen Waverley) Is there someone nearby I could take her to? or who could come have a look?
hey Mate, if you want i can bring over my conzult program and do some data checking for you. run some diagnostics and see what we can find there. Im having slight problems with my auto as well, though i dont think its as bad as yours pm me and we can do from there.
That trans is done, slipping in second is your band , slipping in drive is your top gear clutches, slipping in O/D is a combination of both . You should start looking for a good running auto, If you want to reco an auto find one that hasn't been traumatised (like yours) Try wanted on this forum?
hey guys ill tell ya a way to fix that problem, it will cost you about $650 get an oil cooler fitted, what happened with mine was the auto box kept frying, due to my drivin as i like to drive my car like i stole it. i have gone thru 4 auto box's, now i have my 5th one on. i had amec fit an oil cooler, with braided lines cost me $650 including labour. the thing is the nonturbo or turbo auto tranny runs through the radiator to cool down but as the radiator gets hot as anyone will know, the hot oil gose to radiator and comes back hot, and their fore burns the oil, i did everything tried to change the oil filter in gearbox as it was filthy, hmm tranny oil change way too many times gets kinda pricy when ur spending $70 per bottle (5ltr), man change the oil ur self dont pay someone to do it. will cost you an arm and a leg. basically get a jack jack the front of the car up, put it on ramps then climb under it, get a size 10 key/rachet and undoo the 10-14 bolts, it should have a special glue so if the pan dosnt fall off get a screw driver flat head and hit with(your) hand to break seal/glue, then pan will fall off but b4 you do that take the bolt off if it has one to drain the oil, as that shit in the face and eyes herts/burns(i lernt the hard way). then once you'v dont that let all/most of the oil drip, whilst ur their take the oil filter down unscrew 3 bolts size 8 key/rachet, and clean with unleaded fuel get a bucket and a bottle of 1ltr of unleaded fuel, and hold 1side of the filter and fill other side with fuel then hold other side and shake and then let any of the shit run out and repeat couple of times if your lazy just goto nissan and get new one only costs like $19 i think it cost me. as if it has little metal shavings a small amout is ok, but alot usually means ur gearbox is on its way out, in that case just get another gearbox. then after cleaning it put it all back and with the seal for the pan goto nissan or where ever you want even autobarn sells the shit its called gasket glue or something like that, put that shit on the pan where it mounts onto box, dont be a cheapo and put next to nothing put alot dont be scared to waste it, dont get the crap on ur clothes its not comin off. then place it on the box then and start screwing it all in after its done give the gasket glue time to dry say 12hrs or so, then put fluid in it. you can buy this tool called a tom thumb, which helps you to pump it into box from top of engin where you check oil, helps not to spill oil all over ur exhaust, that smells bad. but gose away over time. hmm but i would recomend that you invest in a oil cooler it can be mounted anywhere but they put mine next to my airpod where it had some room, or next to ur intercooler if you have a turbo zx, i got braided lines which costs approx $50 a meter and u should have about 5-7meters. but if you take it to any auto/ transmission shop they should be able to do all that for you. i wouldnt recomend doing it ur self unless you know what ur doing. hmm then i tested it by doing a brisbane to byron bay and back trip 500 odd km we went on a cruise. to test it. and never had a problem since. $650 well spend on my behalf. i have a 1990 auto nonturbo with a auto tt box fitted., i had and non-turbo box to start with and thought a turbo boz would be better but still fried them untill i got the oil cooler, still mounts onto the engin no mods required. good luck man wish you all the best
Check the TECH section as well as to how to change the oil, you can get a filter that fits a 4x4 Nissan, which will cost you half the cost of one that is for the car, all you need to do is cut off the lip on the bottom with a hacksaw. I did mine and no problem it has to be done to clear the pan. Its the same filter only for the lip the tech page will explain it too you and how to do it. You pay close to $160 for the genuine but the one I got cost me $37 its a big save as well I got mine from Repco -----------GOOD LUCK ---------
