Anyone thinking of rebuilding their geaarbox - NOT as hard as i thought If anyone needs a hand, i've done mine about 3 times to make sure i got it right so i feel like a bit of an expert lol Gear box photo's Project Gotham Car covered Gear hole front Gear hole rear Gear out Gear body Rear of Gear Front of Gear
Damn, wish I was over there. Do you need any exotic tools to get any part of it done? And where did you start? How did you know what to do and what guide did you use? Also, did you upgrade the valve bodies?
K - Tools and Dosh As far as tools go, you need your standard set of wrenchs, screwdrivers and the like. Only tool that most might not have, unless they've got a tool box i guess, would be the safety pin remover. It looks just like a pair of pliers except that the nose opens when you squeeze the handle, so opposite to a pair of pliers. What you need it for is you put the nose in between the two ends of the circle pin. It's a piece of metal in the shape of a circle and has a gap in it. This piece of metal sits snuggly in a groove in the shaft, so you put the tool in and squeeze, forcing the pin to open wider and you romve it. ALSO, unless you have a speical tool to reload all the springs, don't pull apart the smallest gear ie 4th. It's a circle full of holes that connects to the front of the body, and if you look closely inside its full of springs. You can reassemble the whole things without busting out the springs, it just takes a little moer patience and i'm not spending $$$ on one tool i'll use once every 200,000km =) As for dosh, well a full kit cost me less then $600 from Drive Line (Paul) i even bought the solenoids. Normally don't need to but while i got it open hey i'll spend the $100 to do everything at once. Kit came with all the teeth, the band (might be worth getting oversized one next time, i didn't look into it this time and the RE4R03A gearbox is quite strong as is) and all the gaskets, and there are millions of rubber rings and paper gaskets so take your time, follow the pictures with the gasket kit lol and replace them as you go and seperate them in the room from clean and done, to yet to be done, cause unless you do them all the time, if you just clean everything at once, you wont know half the spots gaskets and rubber rings go, seriously, do it a piece at a time, much easier. Sending the valve body away this week, not really necessary, and i only know one guy who actually upgrades all the componets inside and thats Tony at Domeangelo's Transmissions, something like that, got all the contact numbers if people want. He's qouting me around the $1000 mark, but i'm working on him =) and Don't Forget.. the Torque Converter, more important then valve body turns out. It's the giant drum looking thing that presses up against that giant half cut circle, you've all seen it on tv when they pull a tranny, in my photos it would sit around that shaft that you can see sticking out. WELL that troque converter needs to be split open, cleaned as you can't get to it any other way, and re-wielded. Everyone just sends them to Signet in Ryde for $220 odd, but again tony's going to fiddle with mine for around double that, again nothing too huge, just moderate gains helping spooling of torque and all that jazz. All up less then $2000 and a weekend of time consuming washing and replacing rubber rings and gaskets and putting it all back together again. Maybe i should have just spent the $5,000 but to be honest, when i saw the work involved i think they charge way to much... its quite easy, AND there is like a thousand little bits and pieces, so you'd never know if they did it all nice and clean in the first place, obviously their reputation is you're only garantee. MAN the teeth and stuff was easy, putting it all back was hard cause you have to make sure all the teeth line up in order for pieces to slide in. That's a 2 man job, unless you go the tool to reload all the springs, then its a cake walk. PS No tech days with tranny rebuilds please =) Adrian
$1000 to rebuild the valve body or simply to drill the hole or whatever? Isn't that a little steep? K-Zed was saying around $1000 would cover that and a solenoid being replaced with them doing all the labour.
Anyone know how to do a similar sort of thing to a manual gearbox, especially replacing thrust bearing
lol i just looked and ill need to disable the gearbox completely before i get to the thrust bearing ahh well, get it done sooner or later...
Hehe, did you think the gearbox would be any different to any other part in the Z? :zlove: :zlove: :zlove:
Not rebuilding or drilling I rang him and asked, most people charge $400 for cleaning and what not, which really is completely unnessecary as valve bodies are 99% fine. What tony's doing is "replacing" the internals with oversized or undersized components. There's these cone shaped thingy-me-bobs that allow flow to select gears and what not, i know very technical here stay with me, AND you don't want to reduce its strenght by say honing the wall thickness, so instead you can hi-flow it by changing internals, now that's what i call a real engineer, way over my head, the calculations involved in building the Valve body, gearbox and torque converter are huge, let alone, knowing which bits you can change to get a little more out of it. We'll see what the end result is, i'm sure i can work tony down to $800 or so, but it will depend on what's involved and what he ends up doing for me. Looking at gearbox so far it doesn't seem there was to much wrong with it in the first place, worried now it just might be the AT pump lol, that's the little shtty thing that hangs to the side and pushes the fluid around... but at least the AT will be stronger now for future boost increases =)
The thrust bearing is massively easy once the gearbox has been removed, its removed without any need for tools at all
The thrust bearing is part of the clutch kit. You ALWAYS replace the thrust bearing when you do a clutch change. You dont have to open the box at all to get at this.
As Tekie says Thrust bearing is not inside the gearbox, just runs on the sleeve over the main drive shaft of the gearbox, located inside the bell housing. Only held on by two clips, so easy to change when gearbox is out. Great work Adrian, started to pull one apart once and decided it was to hard, so left it to the experts, well done.
Excellent work there mate, congratulations on completing what might have looked like such a daunting task to start with! Bonus points for you my friend! :zlove:
