Anyone have information on this 300zx

http://wa.gumtree.com.au/c-Cars-Veh...-twin-turbo-2-2-targa-tops-W0QQAdIdZ356177807

Says it is running rich. Slight dent in the front bumper that will be removed. Thinks the ECU may be in safe mode. He noticed the Knock sensor is not working. Says it may require a reprogrammed ECU.

Let me know all the information you have on this car and on these problems. Thanks guys (Don't want to miss an opportunity).

 

ask if you can do a compression test, eliminate all your concerns.

if he wont, its most likely a tired/ blown motor.

 

I know the car. Have seen it a couple of times. It is in good nick throughout. The running rich problem would be either ECU or AFM. I'd say AFM at a guess.

Bypass the knock sensor, borrow an ECU and AFM and it should be sweet. It is a good buy imho.

 

Yeah, he did say about bypassing the knock sensor (seems to know his stuff).

Would i have to repair the knock sensor eventually? How much would it cost?

Also how much would it cost if the problem is with the ECU?

 

- Replacement ECU $100-$150
- Knock sensor replacement is major. Lower plenum has to be removed essentially which means timing belt etc off. Better off just bypassing it permanently. Re-location isnt proven.
- AFM $100-$150

Essentially u are still taking a gamble with any car that isnt running right, but the price also reflects this. It is a nice zed.

 

Yeah, Just to verify. an MAF is a type of AFM?

In the advert he does state that he "new iridium spark plugs, new fuel filter, new oil, NEW MAF, s2 ptu, greddy profec e01 boost controller "

 

Yeah, same thing.

 

I read in the tech section that a knock bypass can ultimately damage your rengine due to no ecu communication?

Als the clutch is stiff, he has a stage 3 clutch and flywheel but would it be required with the fairly stock zed? What damage could it cause?

 

You won't damage your engine with a knock sensor bypass.

I have a stage 3 clutch and fly, it's a good unit. How could it cause damage? It's a clutch.

 

answers in red

:zlove:

 

Yeah I didn't think the clutch would do damage, I think I miisread an article. Thanks for the help guys.

 

Stage 1 - Offers approximately 25% increase in strength and durability over your original equipment clutch while maintaining the same smooth driving characteristics. It comes with a high clamp pressure plate, steel-backed woven organic disk, bearings, and tool.

Stage 2 - This clutch has a dual sprung disc with full face Kevlar. It offers the optimum street durability with smooth engagement. The characteristics are more of a street/daily driver feel however, this clutch can handle greater strain and will last far longer than the OE Clutch. It comes with a high clamp pressure plate, segmented chatter-free Kevlar disc, bearings and installation tool.

Stage 3 - Comes with a dual sprung carbonic disc. It allows for aggressive street and track driving while at the same time still works well for daily driving. It is more aggressive than a full-face disc and will easily handle Turbo/NOS etc. Sharp but smooth engagement with light pedal. It is our best selling clutch because it offers the best of both worlds. It comes with a high-clamp pressure plate, 3-piece disc with carbon or ceramic material, bearings, and the installation tool.

Stage 4 - This clutch has a 6 puck Un-sprung Disc. It is not designed for your daily driver car. When using an un-sprung clutch, you will probably experience moderate chatter. You should be prepared to hear your passenger complaining about the whiplash he or she will get every time you pull away from a light. While it will handle extreme aggressiveness, it is either engaged or disengaged with no ability to ease into the clutch. Its optimum use is designed for rally racing.

Stage 5 - This clutch is for racing only. It is of a 3 puck ceramic design and offers optimum performance for the drag strip.

Source: http://www.vitekperformance.com/technical_clutch.asp

 

Thanks Vader. My learning curve continues with your assistance.

 

interesting read, ive never seen it put so precisely before....it depends on the manufacturer of the clutch as well, for example ive got a 9 puck brass button ceramic faced clutch with 4 springs in it, plus higher clamp force in my TT, which is ROUGHLY a stage 3 by that guide....

 

You're absolutely welcome. Just doing my bit to make this forum even more awesome.

 

Thanks Vader.

Also it seems ChilledPain was correct in saying it is the MAF.

Got a text from the owner and he said the knock sensor bypass did nothing, he swapped his new (non-OEM) back to the original and it runs alot better but still a little rough.

I'll see what happens in the coming days and might go for an inspection. If the car is still not running 100% correct is there anything in particular it could be? or would it merely need a new OEM MAF (i'm assuming the old was not 100%).

 

One thing positive, it seems the seller is genuine, pretty honest by the looks of it.

 

If the ECU fault code was not reset then the bypass would have accomplished nothing! Onle a reset command from consult or disconnecting the battery for over 4 hours will reset it. Buggered AFM will be the classic symptom of not being able to rev the engine much past 2000 RPM.

 

Hi Karl,

The ecu is a non genuine article and have been know to give inconsistent readings across the rev range unfortunately.

But agree 100% to reset the ECU!

On another note, this zed is a great buy. Any problems are minor...

 

Aftermarket ECU = world of heartache for a lot of users. Still may not be the AFM though, could be something simple as a dodgy circuit like a broken wire or loose pinout.