In an effort to try and increase throttle response and acceleration would buying a one piece lightened driveshaft (aluminum or maybe carbon fiber?) have much benefit? I've been discussing it with another guy and he thinks that it would be pointless and not worth doing. However i think that even though it won't make a hugely noticeable difference by itself, when combined with other things such as the UDP and a decent set of lightweight wheels, it should help for sure. What's everyone's opinion on lightweight one piece drive shafts? I remember reading somewhere about someone's carbon fiber one shattering? Would a carbon fiber one be a good option or, safer just to go with the aluminum one? I spose if either one were to break however i'd rather it be the carbon fiber one...
It may increase your output by some margin But would definately be better than the two piece setup that Nissan have on the car. 1. No Centre Bearing. 2. Less Universals normally means less power loss through the drive shaft. But how much is up for debate. It depends on what application you have in mind for your car. If it's just for street driving, then I'd go for the Aluminium Shaft, but if you want it for track work, where weight is a factor, then the Carbon Fibre would be the way to go. I hope this helps. Cheers Kerry :zlove:
unless your original one is fuukd, I would sooner spend the money elsewhere. Is it really worth it or are the more important or better things you can get for the same $$$
I did a bit of research and ended up with a stronger steel 1-piece vs an aly one. I installed a very lightweight flywheel and a new clutch at the same time, so the difference was insane... Definitely worth it when combined with a lightweight flywheel IMO Also CF ones "broom" instead of snapping, I think I might get one when I run out of mods to buy
The center bearing of the one I have is stuffed, So i thought I may as well upgrade to something better. I think in the end i'll end up going with an aluminum one. I suppose the money could buy other things that will make the car accelerate faster, however as part of my goal I want to try and remove as much stress off the engine as possible, opposed to putting it under strain with things such as boost controllers and large turbo's. I want to get as much out of the stock engine as possible before adding things that will cause it to be under stress. That way... it should be able to handle it better.. i think? My zed is also an Auto, so I won't be changing to a lightweight flywheel. But i will be putting on a shift kit and already have an UDP. Might consider getting race logic traction control
I was down at Metropolitan Drive Shafts ( AUS wide drive shaft mod supplier car's to trucks ) for a old school car (70's) custom, We talked about one peice V 2 peice V carbon , As explained, one peice requires a larger DIA tube to over come the two peice center bearing style to clear a smaller trans tunnel, ( two peice ends up with smaller trans tunnel ) So unless chasing the last .0001 performance One peice tail shafts result in a net spinning mass load which is close to stock,due to smaller dia tube standard They had a exploded carbon tailshaft for display ( unknown ) car/supplyer but they recommened track only, I went for a standard center bearing style shaft for a cruiser. ross
The Z1 steel TT auto driveshaft is 9kg compared to the 14kg stock driveshaft. Their aluminium version is lighter still. A CF one would be safer since it'll just split into a million fibres instead of snapping like a metal one would.
Jeff lagerway tailshafts in Knox area-Victoria can make up a one piece steel tailshaft, if you decide against a c/f or alloy one. 97584015
I felt a nice change when I put my C/F shaft in . with less vibration as well on my car its a big jump from 33lbs to 12.5 lbs in rotating mass.
Spinning mass is different to weighted mass re DIA , closer to center is always better, Why would you plan for a failure ( aluminium V CF ) CF is only good in it designed plane, which street has many , When was the last non standard metal driveshaft user hurt because they didnn't fit a alloy or CF tail shaft, Safety, what a great catch cry, Advatiges V's requirements, Better to talk to your local drive shaft person ross
Not too sure on price now days Rod, I got mine about 4 years ago for $250. Heard its gone up to about $350, which is still good value.
I understand the point ross is making about the diameter of the drive shaft being an important factor in the difference it makes. The large diameter would be throwing more weight around further away from the center point, which would equal wasted power. However it'd be interesting to know to what degree the diameter makes a difference? Opposed to the actual weight saving itself.
+ 1 for Jeff, he does good work. i paid about $350 earlier this year. could be cheaper depending on what you want. mine was upsized to larger tube (used a TT front yoke which he had laying around) and has stonger (solid X) uni's.
I've seen too many carbon drive shafts fail for me to chance one. Specially for the expense. Ally or steel FTW!
so i just go see him, and ask for a 1 piece driveshaft for a z32, and he makes them? or can i ask for a larger tube a TT front yoke with solid X unis? hahahaa
Hmm yeah i'm thinking the same in regards to the carbon ones. Out of curiosity though.. any idea roughly on how many you've seen fail?
