Advice needed with final power upgrades???

HI Guys
I need a bit of help so I put the right parts together??? I just brought HevryTrev bits as below.

Z1 600 turbo kit (2560's garrets) (easy bolt on no mods) (approx 10 000klm)

Sard 650 injectors with correct collars and zed fuel rail. (approx 10 000klm)

HPC coated / Extrude honed Manifolds (were already sold ....missed by that much)

HKS Cast 5 bolt dumps

2x Sard racing Bov's

What I need to work out is?? Do I buy AMS manifold or UAS Mainifold? Quicker spool up or slower ??? Don't want a lot of lag.
Do I need it if I am only aiming for 300 to 310RWKW?
Intake is stock except for KN air Filter do I need something better for it?
And no I don"t want a pod if it is for show only...it must flow better.
Some details on the car.
Chipped ecu Nissotune
Have Japtech SMIC
Greddy EBC II
2.5" Dual exhaust after the cat and UAS group buy centre muffler will go on next.
Have done full timing belt kit and Inlet manifold pull.
EGR removal ( Bitch of a job in car and now I will need to pull the motor to fit the new turbos)
All hoses, belts, spark plugs and all wiring plugs will be replaced and oxyen sensors as well. New Koyo 50mm radiator and Fan.
The car is auto and before Icer can ask it is a TT 89 2+2. I will be putting a UAS front bar on and do some new ducting to the SMIC. What else do I need adj FPR??? Any advice would help as I need to start placing orders with Coz and UAS and when I pull the motor I only want to do it once(I hope so) Cheers Mark.

 

if your going to put turbos on and while the price is right get the AMS mani's (you can get them at the "on par price" at the moment) they will help with spool, also something you should consider is your tp's (AMS have these on sale too) as they will be the restricting part in your exhaust...i believe a pod will flow better than the stock airbox and one thats worth it is the 3A racing pod usually like $30-$50 range or as many people the apexi which you can get range about $100...look in the tech article for benny's write up on the 3A racing pod....very good pod IMHO as i had one...also for higher power levels you could run twin pods and a mafless setup...also something you should consider for the higher power levels is getting forged pistons, etc....this will give you some sort of piece of mind as things will have less tendency to break

RYan

 

dont see a need for an adj fpr.. not 100% sure if you will make 300 on stock manifolds, ported stock manifolds have seen over 400rwkw so that would be your other option.

also get rid of the hks dumps and get some of these from ams in FSBB

 

if you dont cut corners you will come out with a monster..

ams or msp manifolds
555 or 740 injectors + rail if 740s
dual intake (better spool)
3" dumps and full 3" dual system if you can afford.
hks or forge actuators
nismo gtr fuel pump, or twin walbros
fuel pressure reg to accomodate new rail and pump
new fuel lines

make sure your autos up for it.. manual valve body for extra fun, 1pce driveshaft..

 

With almost exactly the same setup as you are planning I got 313RWHP(14psi) - HP not KW. I've got GT600R's, Sard 650's, AMS cast manifolds. 2.5" exhaust, Apexi pod, Karl spec intercoolers, and custom tune with standard ECU. Engine is brand new Nissan long block so compression is perfect. Don't know how the other boys get 300kw from their cars. Kind of laggy, breaks traction at about 50 in 1st. Good fun but only when you're out there breaking every road rule there is.

 

who tuned it tho.

i was pushing 330hp on stock turbos and injectors.
someones either tuned it ridiculously wussy or you have issues

 

I have issues but that's a completly different matter

The 'boys' at Hyperdrive did the tune, when they finally got around to it. Any one else in Perth that you recommend?

Cheers,
Evan.

 

ouch .. no wonder....

get a microtech and then u can have your pick of tuner...

 

theres another hundred horses in yours yet mate.

your injectors would be maxing at like 52% duty cycle. lol

 

Same here Mikey. Evan, you are currently running 233rwkw. you should be expecting at least 270kw at probably 16-17psi if tuned properly, and you can fine tune your ignition timing from there to minimise lag.

Your setup "should" see you crack the 300rwKW mark if you run the 20psi that your turbos are rated at safely running. I'd be looking elsewhere to get it tuned properly Evan, and get the full potential out of those nice turbos and tough new engine

 

"The car is auto and before Icer <--" lol? what do i care....

I recon you will need new zorst system. 2.5" cat back will be to restrictive (topend) IMO for the power/mods.

Grab an UDP....
dual airpod setup....

You dont need to change your fuel pump. Stock is fine All you need then is a good tuner. A good tuner is what makes a difference in your cars power figure! I got the best (IMO)

 

Thanks for that Rob as the thread was getting off track. Too answer your questions Boost controller is Greddy Profec B spec2 and Nistune. The last dyno run by MRC was 212rwkw or 330rwhp on 13.5psi with totally stock motor except for the 2.5'' after cat exhaust. With the GT28r I am aiming for 300rwkw but I will live if I don't get there. If I could get 311rwkw I would like to join the game of trying to beat Icer. :bow2::biggrin: just for the fun of it!!! How hard is it to convert factory rails to twin feed?? Thanks for everyones help and I hope Icer has a sense of humour:biggrin::biggrin: Cheers Mark.

 

i can finally have some competition GL with build mate!

 

Depending on your tuner and the rest of the components in good nick you will make over 300KW easily. I have the same turbos and although not posted on the dyno list is higher than 300RWKW. Don't got to the hassel and expense of modifying for twin feed fuel rails with these turbos, you will not gain any benefit whatsoever.

 

212 kw is more like 284 hp
330 hp is approx 246kw

 

HP to KW

Good point I will need to dig out the dyno sheet??? Here is a good website to work out HP to KW etc http://www.unitconverter.com.au/ Cheers Mark:bow2: