About to do 100k service.. a few quick questions

Hey guys, I'm about to do my 100k service, and it is my first time attempting anything like this so I am being careful to take my time and do it right. I have the full kit from Caz, and also a GFB under drive pulley and am going to do my S2 PTU at the same time.

I pretty much have all the tools that are recommended in the tech section, except I haven't got a pulley-puller yet. It says to get a 3-claw pulley puller... I haven't been able to find one of these. Repco had a 3-claw GEAR puller. It looks the same, but I'm not sure? Is this the same thing? Also, after searching a few threads, it seems that these 3 claw pullers aren't the best option? Some are suggesting to get the 2 bolt style pullers from super cheap. Some others have even said to just use a pry bar (or 2) to work it off. What do people (who have done this service) think is the best option?

Also, I have a normal ratcheting wrench and breaker bar, but not an actual torque wrench... How important is it to get the tightness exactly correct? Can I just estimate or should I really get a proper torque wrench for this job.

Thanks. Sorry for the noob questions, I really appreciate any help!

 

Forgot to mention its a 1992 j-spec auto NA if any of that makes a difference

 

just go to auto sprint buy a 3 claws pulley puller, around $20-$25. good enough. my pulley was really really tight, but it did the job nicely.

yes, get a torque wrench. you are not using it once only, good investment for the future too.

 

my advice is to listen to lovic, he has very recent experience with 100k services

 

What range torque wrench would anyone here recommend for use with the zed?

 

Ok so I will do the job right and pick up a torque wrench...

I'd love a few more opinions about whether to go for a 2 bolt style pulley puller or 3 claw puller, or to not bother and just try to wriggle the pulley off with a pry bar. What have other people done?

Thanks appreciate any help.

 

I've done it more than the rest of you put together

Get a two bolt puller, that's best for the stock pulley, use a 3 arm for the UDP. With the 2 bolt puller use timing cover bolts, they are perfect.

Don't need a torque wrench IMO, I know it's not the right way but meh, your not mucking around with jounal bearings so it's not too critical. Just do the crank pulley up 'really tight', all the tensioner and idlers bearings are to be done up 'tight' Everything else just 'firm'

Make sure you don't crank up the water pump and water pipes after putting the goo on. Do them up 'one finger and thumb tight' then do them up 'firmish' after 3/4 to 1 hour later. Stops stupid leaks that way.

Any other problems put them up, we'll get you through

 

I second using a 2 bolt gear puller. Only removed my balancer for the second time a few weeks ago and comes of pretty easy. Just fit several nice thick washers on the cam cover bolts.
I would imagine a jaw style puller would be difficult to work with given the limited space. even with my radiator out the ac condensor would still be pretty close.

Good luck.
Ben

 

Crank pulley easy enough as detailed above.

Crank (timing belt) sprocket can be a bastard! 1 in 100 will pull off, the other 99 will need drilling and splitting to remove.

 

I recomend this torque wrench http://www.transquip.com.au/product.aspx?ID=1181&PARENT=236
Comes in handy if ur heavy handed like me lol

Trev

 

i think you need a torque wrench for the intake cam sproket bolts, thats an important one

 

I hope I'm that 1 in 100 then!

Please lord, let it be true :bow2:

 

haha don't like ur luck , most of times the bastards are seized on .

Trev

 

4" and a cold chisel is the easiest way...

 

supercheap is doing 30% off on superwork torque wrench, $59.95 rrp.
good enough!

 

i got my kinchrome one for 100 i think? Good piece of kit.

 

Yes you do, same for the Exhaust cam sprockets - if you wanna be perfect. Personally I'd get a torque wrench, just to be safe.

Since you're replacing the timing belt, I'd also replace the VTC springs (underneath the cover on the intake sprockets). They're $2 a pop, and guaranteed to be fubar.

I pulled the UDP with a 3 point pulley puller, came off without a hitch - Just don't loose the woodruff key!!!

Also, I'd invest in a white paint tip marker, as to mark all the timing points on the sprockets, as well as the back covers, and the lower crank sprocket and cover thing (not sure what to call it, but it encompasses the lower portion of the sprocket, and has a small nick taken out of it as the timing mark). It makes the marks much easier to see when you're putting on the new timing belt.

 

If they're fubar, do they affect the variable valve timing in any way? Or it will work regardless of their condition?

-Kirill

 

Thanks Chrispy. I have the stock pulley on at the moment, so will go for the 2 bolt puller.

Thanks for the other tips too! Big help, and I am feeling a little more confident about approaching this job now.

 

Sounds like its not absolutely necessary to get a torque wrench for this job but I like to be on the cautious side better safe than sorry imo. I am sure it will come in handy plenty of times in the future anyway so a wise investment.

And yep the VTC springs are included in the 100k kit so I will be replacing those too. I also got a white paint marker too. Thanks for the tip.