Hey Guys, Normally i use mobil 1 5w50 fully sythetic oil, but i am thinking this is a little thin for the zed (noticed little bit of tappet noise on startup), as she is a late 91 model and may need something a little thicker. Have been looking around for a good quality 10w50 oil, but can't seem to find someone who stocks this, but i have found the shell helix ultra 15w50 full sythetic. How is this oil, and more impportantly is it good for the zed engine....? Have done a search, but no real answers to my question. Has anyone had any experience with this oil...... or know if it is any good? or should i continue with mobile 1.
5w50 is too light for the engine unless you live in Antartica I dont know why people have such a fascination with synthetics for. They are a bit like the old friction modified oils when they came out and ended up being a disaster. I know that fully synthetic oils were introduced to aircraft engines some time ago and ended up causing oil galleries to coke up! :thumbsdown:. I certainly wouldnt use them. I have just overhauled my engine and at a guess I think it would have done about 150000k.:unsure: The inlet valves were stuffed and the cam followers had ridges (werent turning) but the bores had no wear in them :thumbsup: the bearings were in very good shape The pistons still had their machining marks all around the skirts. From what I can gather the previous owners more than likely used stock oils.:unsure: You are wasting money if you pay anymore than $25 / 5 litres (IMHO) Use what Nissan suggest they built the engine I think they would know. regards John
John would you like to read this pdf I have on synthetic oils. It says the the complete opposite to you. If you want I will email it to you, if you can accept a 3mb file. I dont know if the guy is pushing his own barrow but it might be a good read.:unsure::zlove:
You got that... ....round the wrong way. A mineral oil will burn and coke and clog galleries a lot easier then synthetic.
I know mineral oils have limitations but they .... have latitude and are able to hold contaminates in suspension whereas synthetics do a poor job in comparison. The synthetics just leave the stuff behind in oil galleries and valve guides and that was one reason the synthetics were dropped in aircraft because besides blocking up oil galleries it caused valves to stick because it couldnt get rid of the lead deposits. Synthetics are brillant in turbine engines where there is little combustion byproduct entering the oil system but in an internal combustion engine I think they are a cause for concern again (IMHO) regards John the debate will rage on
oils Hi zeo culd you please forward me a copy would be a good read 3mb should be ok thanx zeo cheers fish (scott):thumbsup:
I use 15-50 Penzoil synth blend. I don't see the point in running and paying for a fully synth when my motors all ready warn its not going to do much other than bleed out of every seal
Anyway dudes OILS is OILS you will more than likely blow your engine up before you work out whether one oil was better than the other:LOL::LOL::LOL: Hey Zeo thanks for the offer but on dial-up a 3 mb file would spoil my wifes day! regards John
Synthetic cleans your engine very well Not to mention the oil doesn't break down and coke up like mineral oil thus blocking the oil galleries. The reason synthetic is invented is to combat the black death, caused by mineral oil breaking down and forming sludge in the engine and causing havoc with moving parts. Engine oil bible If you got worn engine, you might wanna try thicker full synthetic, it's good for a couple horses extra too, being more slippery.
I'm back and the debate rages again...... I have been requested to read the Sorry guys I have just spent a whole hour writing a response to you all only to have it fail to post and I dont feel like writing it again. To answer your question Pete I actually use a semi synthetic Penrite 10w50 which is a little light for Qld conditions but for running in I use a full mineral oil Shell super. regards John:thumbsdown:
