1 Piece Tailshafts in Melbourne for only $250

ring him yourself and find out 97584015 ask for Jeff freight will be the killer of that idea i think

 

Freight to Qld Jeff estimated to be no more than $40, should be less to NSW and I guess a little more to the other states.

 

The issue is he reuses the yokes from your old Uni's ( and machines them) and reuses the CV joint ( in a TT)

He machines out the yokes and replaces them with 1 tonner uni's

So he would need a donor shaft from each of you.

When you factor that in its not all that feasible.

 

How hard is it to remove and reinstall a tailshaft? Is it somethignfor pro's, or if you have a good set of jack stands and the usual tool, is it easy enough to do yourself?

Cheers, Andrew

 

Not very hard.

Jack the car up, put on stands. Take the exhaust off - 3 nuts either pipe at the end of the extractors. Unhook the rubber hangers and lower exhaust. Remove heatshield.

Undo the center bearing support, undo the 4 bolts on the tailshaft flange at diff end. Lower rear part and pull shaft out of gearbox.

Slide new one piece into gearbox, do up the flange to the diff, put heatshield back, put exhaust back.

 

So basically only need a socket set and jack stands?

 

I usually put the front wheels on a ramp, then jack up the rear. and put on stands. If the car is not level, gearbox oil may leak out when you pull the shaft out.

Sockets for the exhaust and center bearing, ring spanner for the 4 bolts on the diff flange.

 

Good tips....might need a second set of stands....ramps just not get under the car....stock height (with 17 years of gravity) and aftermarket front bar...might end up getting a trolly jack...haha

Cheers, Andrew

 

could always do what i did and find two equally lengthed pieces of sturdy wooden boards (over an inch thick), to make the step up to the ramps less severe. But then again i wouldn't recommend this for old Mother Safety's sake. But i couldn't see a problem with it.

 

lol, I'll be needing that method for getting the jack under the car...Roi will tell you that when he put my new wheels one they had to put rubber blocks under teh front wheels so they could get their jack out...

 

pretty sure you will need a 8mm allen key to get the rear bolts out of the drive shaft.

cheers.

 

Cool, have them anyway, will have it out just in case

 

Problems getting the jack under the car?
Drive onto some pavers placed just ahead of the wheels. Lot easier to slide jack under.
And using thick planks about 5' long is a good lead onto a set of ramps - been doing that for a while.

 

I have never seen any nuts you can undo with an allen key.

14mm ring spanner. Don't use the open end, not strong enough and may break. You may need to juggle it a bit to get the ring onto the nut. Use your foot to losen.

The 280zx uses 12mm nuts, and it is next to impossible to get the ring around the nut. I have broken 4-5 spanners using the open end (and one 14mm on the 300)

 

You do need

allen keys for the tailshaft, after just removin mine the other week i found out this for myself.

 

One-piece shaft in, vibration OUT! "DREDZ" is drivable again!
Sounds and feels completely different, though, but good!
O/A cost $380, but that included heavy duty Falcon unis and rebalancing the two-piece (again! Still vibrated when re-installed... WTF happened to it?).

I'm going to see Jeff this morning re what he needs by way of measurements... I'll post here about the outcome.

 

Allen key drive for removing a TT CV joint from the diff. No allen keys for an NA removal

 

Ahhhh! Thanks for pointing that out Graham I have a NA...so one less tool for me

 

Excellent news, I think I should get in contact with him too, I really should get mine done now, I have been putting it off for too long.

He definately no longer fits them himself?

 

Re: Fitting - Jeff will remove and replace if you have absolutely no other way of getting it done, however, he prefers not to get involved at that level. You'd need to make that arrangement with him on an individual basis.

I spoke to him this morning about working from measurements only... in theory it's quite feasible, so he will have a think about it. It is not that he doesn't want the business, there is always the potential problem of him building a shaft from the measurements we provide, shipping it to, for example, Perth, and the installer finding that the shaft misses fitting a particular car by a mm or two. Not good for business. He is also in the process of building up a data base of sizes based on measurements he has taken himself from two-piece shafts which people have or may be sending to him (as in the process Jasonic is undertaking at the moment)