Need bit help with right tool what to buy? Need replacing pads and pushing back piston isn't very easy using C- clamp from bunnings. Any better tool or ideas?I need piston compress tool. What you guys use when changing brake pads? Need something like this...
I just use a screwdriver or similar between the existing pad and rotor as a lever to push the pistons back in.
Or buy something like this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005GLQCKA...-tools-supplies/tools/72-disc-brake-spreaders
Ive got a G clamp that usually sits inside the piston cup. No real pretty way to do it unless you really want to spend up on a fancy tool that a cheapy can do anyways. Also...Gloves? Nothing more manly then grease and grime stuck in the cracks on your fingers haha.
The tyre lever end (prybar) ....and a large flat screwdriver to assist if its being a biatch. Being careful of course! This is what you use, when your on the side of the road, doing your brake pads! :rofl: :zlove:
You need to crack the bleed nipple!! Buy a small brake bleed bottle that you can put on the bleed nipple, crack the line open and then push the pistons back. Failure to do this can result in turning the seals inside out and causing brake fluid to bypass the pistons. Added bonus is a mini bleed but it is crucial. To push the pistons back I use the old brake pad to keep the pistons even and compress with multi grips. Dave
Never heard that before? Never ever had a problem and never cracked the bleed nipple. You do however need to keep an eye on the level of fluid in your master cylinder, otherwise you could overflow it with brake fluid all over the engine bay, not pretty.
I've been a mechanic for 10 years and have seen it happen (young apprentice being lazy). You can also do the same to the seals in the master cylinder if enough pressure is applied. Don't forget these cars are 20 years old. Dave
I use your method too, shane. Large screwdriver and strategic placement of the old pads. I make sure to take the lid off the reservoir too. Never any issues, no need to exert massive force and I've never had to open a bleed nipple.
I think a key factor is not trying to push them back in too quick. Take it slow and all is well. I might try the nipple trick next time though, I'm thinking it would make it much easier to push the pistons back in. Means you would definitely have to bleed em though. I sometimes skip this step Not really necessary though it you take it slow.
Not if you use the bleed bottle and hose. Aslong as the fluid stays in the bleed hose going to the bottle and does not allow air past the fluid. Essentially all you are doing is pushing the fluid out not letting air in so no need to bleed. Dave
Baaaaaaaaaaahahahahahaha what a load of bollocks!!!!! Slave piston seals are square section o-rings. Turn one of those inside out and your using gelignite at a minimum............Possibly depleted uranium... Tsar Bomba perhaps!!! Cup seals in a master cyl turning backwards from bleeding.... ROFLMAO!!!! Show me!!!! Ahh shit man ...sry , but thats seriously funny and really makes my day!!!!!! E
Yer, errm... subtlety is not my strong suit.... best to say it as i see it... Ruffles feathers sometimes but.... E
For Gods sake just use a bloody sliding G clamp like we have been doing for 50 years. You don't need to crack the bloody bleed nipple... Noobs........ Take the reservoir cap off first.. The reason you might want to use a proper clamp tool if you have one is it squeezes both sides of the 2 pistons in at the same time otherwise as you do one side the other piston sometimes pops out. Why make this hard? Its F#ckin easy, G clamp works great. Just push them in slowwwwwwly. Why potentially make a mess with fluid if you don't have to.
TeeHee! Im feeling your pain Tech.......... Some might like to watch a brake pad change on a race car. The fundamental construction of the calipers is identical with pistons sealed by simple square section O-rings. Turning seals inside out when pushing pistons back..... GOLD!!!! C'est la vie!!