Dude that's shithouse... Probably why I dot have heaps of power is because I told my tuner that I need it to be 100% safe and any signs of pinging, even a slight amount, he retwrded the timing.
No, they were hoping that the standard knock sensor would show pinging, even though the standard one cant differentiate between engine noise and pinging past 3000rpm......or the fact Anti's one was bypassed......or the fact the guy was listening for pinging from inside the bloody cabin and not with earmuffs and head in the engine bay.
Just caught up on this after coming back, sucks majorly man I'll give you a call later on anyway. UAS should take some responsibility if they decided not to use any knock sensor, that's bullshit.
Thank you for the kind words. Throughout the whole rebuild, the one thing I always told myself I couldn't afford was a fresh motor. So this was quite the kick in teeth. I'm a 21 year old student living out of home, The turbos I already put in the car reflect that. That said, my car needs a fresh motor, no more second hand crap. I'm moving back home so I can save money. It will be a stock rebuild with forged pistons (Wiseco 88's probably) - something new, reliable and with good compression that can take a mid range 300kw beating without giving up the ghost any time soon. Things picked up a few days ago. I've been in touch with John @ UAS and we've worked out an agreeable arrangement as to a the future motor of my Z32. In about a month or so's time the blown engine will be coming out and I'll be dropping the car back into my parents' garage. While the new engine is assembled at UAS I'll be furthering the wire tuck, shaving the bay and getting the bay resprayed in my future colour. If I can afford it, because at the moment I have no new job prospects whatsoever haha. The rest of the tuck should be interesting. At the moment I have a cluster**** of lines (turbo coolant, fuel, vacuum) next to the battery tray (the latter two are run underneath the tray), along with a thick snake of loom running along the passenger side chassis rail. All that needs to go. The fuel hard lines on the chassis rail will be removed and rerouted under the body coming up at the firewall. The wiring will be cut/extended and run through the fenderwell to the front end, except for the PTU which'll end up somewhere inside. The lines for the oil cooler, wastegates, BOV's and MAP sensor will all be run through the chassis rails to the front end, while the PRP's for the boost controller will be relocated to somewhere closer to the FMIC. Once I've taken care of that I'll be learning some bodywork skills in lead free body soldering, and doing my best to completely round the two portions in front of the strut towers. I'll have the top front crossmember completely welded up and the battery tray will also be getting cut out. I need to learn a lot. I've been talking to a shop about the paintwork, and I'm confident they're up to the job. Should be fun, we'll wait and see what happens... Even though I hate how close I was to getting ready to paint/finish/actually drive the car, I'm exited to introduce a fresh motor and shaved/repainted bay to the image in my head. Anyway, here are some photos of getting the new Walbro fuel pump put in before backing up to the dyno. -A
It will be worth it in the long haul man. At least you're not giving up. The downtime will suck but if you can claw yourself out of the hole you're in, you'll be glad it happened. A fresh motor will be awesome!
I can't see the straps either, but it's common sense that the chocks alone couldn't hold a car when it's boosting in 4th gear, derp :/ I may be wrong, but yeah...
That is true, but I imagine if they didn't strap the car down, the engine wouldn't have had a chance to take a dive before it was slammed into the firewall after the car rocketed off the dyno and hit the first solid object that was in its way :/ It's a shame that you weren't in the car, Anti. The no headphones would have rang alarm bells.
Intake manifold, throttle bodies, throttle body linkages, cam covers, injector caps, all boost piping, water pipes, brake master cylinder brace, assortment of bolts, headlight brackets, coil pack brackets, after market accordions, oil cap, CAS and bracket, maybe balance tube if I can't relocate it successfully. The copper colour requires ceramic coating of the chosen component first, which makes things interesting (expensive). I was going to do the cam gears too but I'm not sure at the moment.
