Been trying to bolt up some "5 bolt Alloy Toyz 3" split down pipes and have noticed they foul on the steering rod. Anyone else had this problem? Only reason I can think of that it wouldn't fit would be because it may have been designed for use with American Z's
Disconnect the steering rod uni-joint first so it hangs and you can move it out of the way, then fit the dumps, then re-fit the steering arm back agian. It should fit back in place after you've got your flanges in the right place. It's a common issue with these huge 3" Toyz dumps. I had the same issue with mine....
Well there you go! I'm sure I was reading that some other members had to bash their in a bit... Ahh well, Benny's idea sounds a lot better lol
Bashed the pipe a little more, could not see how undoing the steering rod and doing it up again would help, as it rubs against the rod (the rod isn't blocking it.. just fouling.) Now the problem is the 3" side of the pipe hits against the chassis as I try to rotate it into position... It barely fits I should have 10mm clearance not 1/10th of a mm
Possibly your engine mounts are worn more than average bringing your dump pipe closer to the steering rod.
Because of my Big F%$K off turbos, witch are longer than stock from front to back Even the intakes pipes on front of turbos had to be cut and shortened. But all fit good now.
They seemed to be in pretty much new condition when I last looked at them. The engine has only just recently been put back in the car. If the mounts were worn, wouldn't the engine sit a little bit lower? The downpipes expand as they get lower, so if the engine sat higher the problem would possibly be worse.. It seems more like a horizontal clearance issue as opposed to height/vertical.. Lots of excess space around the starter motor.. But none against the chassis rail underneath (flange hits on chassis.)
Ah sorry mate I though you were having clearance issues on the underside of the dumps, not the top. Would be good if the would fit without having to give the a bash the way some say...even then it may still rub with engine vibrations while idleing/driving.
I've got larger turbos, but I wouldn't say they're "Big F%$K off" sized. They are these. http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_info.php?cPath=6_16&products_id=3084 GT535R Turbo Kit Also got them connected up to AMS manifolds, which are a bit larger and higher flowing.
I found the same issues with a car I built not so long ago, AMS manifolds, Disco potatoes, ally toys down pipes. Drivers side was touching the steering shaft and passenger side was touching the firewall, customer was not happy to spend money to fix it as "others have fitted these with no issues" so I left as it was and said good luck. It's just something to watch out for with ALL of these bigger parts, some of the time they just don't fit without a little help.
In the case that I had if the rear of the trans was lifted this would have made the down pipe contact against the firewall even harder (I lifted the trans to check). A couple of tiny tweaks to the design would see these fit both left and right hand drive cars with no issues but as suggested a good hammer in the right hands does help In the past I have actually cut and re welded some components to get a better fit but this isn't an option for some & it's hard to justify to some customers as they argue the part should have fitted in the first place. I can see that point but then that point doesn't help the part go in the car and run does it :rofl:
Transmission mount is fine, just replaced it with a second hand one which is in good condition, even though it's from a Silvia, same transmission mount anyway. May have to just keep bashing it until it fits. Cut and shut could work, I'll have to have another look at it and decide how I'm going to make it fit. I'm not sure about it even being close to the firewall.. seems like a fair bit of distance to me.. seems like the flange should've been rotated a bit more towards the starter motor to avoid contacting the chassis rail if anything.
This could possibly be a valid point also. ...as i had previously clocked (rotated) my new turbos a tad to fit better. Hopefully it will aid in your clearance issues. I should have mentioned that earlier but forgot since i did the deed a while ago now.
You can't rotate the exhaust housing as it position is locked by the bolting it to the exhaust manifold.