Just to clarify this is not the sound insulation foam which is brittle and you can buy from Bunnings. This is very high density and tough as nails. You can buy it in difference strengths per square inch. Supposedly the bottom rails shouls use a much higher density than the top of the chassis.
Mitch approves of this. ...OR you could zip tie pool noodles to your strut towers and triangulate the hell out of your cockpit
Yeah I dont think it would work for what im after, if the car's on the roof the foam in the chassis aint going to help much
some more info as I wanted to use it .. though still need it for the hatch . ( rear wing down force flex). "I read some info on foam filling and don't really like what I read. Nissan or Nismo recommend against it too. Why? because although it appears to add rigidity, it will not flex, it will simply snap. So it might be great for a road car and add rigidity to a point, but hammer it around a circuit and sooner or later (maybe sooner) it is going to snap at the point(s) that are doing most work, and once snapped it is totally useless and nearly impossible to remove." "I think you will find that the foam in rails is an 60s and 70s thing, mostly from rallying. There was thinking that it helped with stiffness, but the main reason they did it was to keep mud and garbage out of the rails which over time would cause corrosion. Again it was noted to help the stifness by a bees dick but the other reason i know rally guys do it to the B and C pillars is to improve the acustics in the cabin and help the driver hear the navigator with pace note calls. It tones down the NVH from all the hollow spaces in the cabin " "BMW tried it sometime in -70s but the mentioned rust problems were bad so they dumped it.Flexible body movements make the foam to separate the sheetmetal and then all the foam did was to grind the paint off and make way for rust.. "
this is what the Supra boyz do someone with a vert was looking for any options to improve stiffness. it is removeable so they can put their solid roof back on. but with the Zed, there are so many options to siffen up the ends of the car, under brace, over brace, roll bars and roll cage. I worry that the little bit of OEM chassis between all these new tough bits is going to fatigue differently. It will definitely be getting a different type of twist that it was never designed for. If everything flexes a little bit here and there, then it isn't much on each part of the car.
The thing with verts is, as a rule, they are usually beefed up in the chassis to compensate for loss of rigidity with removal of the roof. A good platform for a cageless road/race car, accounting for some additional weight, would be to add a permanent slicktop to a vert chassis. Id predict it would be a very handy car with the right suspension setup! E
Seems like a great idea to me if your after rigidity - never heard of it before - but you learn something new everyday and it sounds quite viable, effective and lightweight. JC
got a couple of uninvited ad-bots had a read of that, also got a couple of uninvited ad-bots so I quoted it below for anyone else who wants to read it without clicking the link.
OK - its working! You a salesman for the company ? If your intent is to convince me do this to my car - then its working :drool: JC
Why would you do this to make your car more rigid? Movement allows for more comfort. We can't drive our cars on the road that fast that we need "better handling". Street car is street car. Race car is race car. There is a reason you can't register a V8 super car on the roads. Its NOT practical.
This is actually quite viable Would like to see my car go around a track eventually .... Would only do the two chassis rails - there is still enough lateral flex for street handling and it would save adding expensive flex strengthening bars which cost hundreds each so the value is very much there. Also would assist in preventing corrosion in the chassis rails as its hard to get inside there but this stuff would be much easier especially given it expands.
