Where to go for Manual 5 speed service and Dyno tune Haltech

I have just rebuilt my vg30dett to hold 700hp
I need to find someone that is willing to give advice on my 5 speed- It's grinding 3rd to 4th and heard it's common in early versions
I have no idea on the model of box as it was converted before i bought it

I also need the car tuned by someone reputable
I live in gold coast region Oxenford and will be tow trucking to wherever needed locally hopefully. It's running but just ran out of rego

Does anyone know of a simmilar hp z that can recomend a tuner that also knows about these manual gearboxes?

On a side note, who does on-site mod plates?
Coil overs
Lambo doors
Shaved handles

Any info would be handy please peoples

 

Have a chat too Karl aka 90TTZ he is southside of Brisbane and is a well respected member on here.

 

Thanks Rob- appreciated
What is PPG?

Mods:
Cryotreat crank and re-grind
Forged Carilo H Beam rods (lighter and stronger than oem)
Race spec bearings and stud kits
Forged Ross racing pistons and rings with anti friction coating
Ceramic coat to crown
Bore and hone 0.5 over
Stainless welsh plugs
COMETIC METAL HG 051" THICK
Service lifters
Gates timing belt- blue racing series
2nd hand heads from NA motor re-machined
Used old ones to measure how far we could open the ports up maximum
Decked heads
Port matched and polished heads
Port matched and polished intake (centre peice between intake plennum and heads)
Recut valves and seats
Serviced springs
New bronze liner guides
Upgrade oil pump
All other internal parts new (tensioner etc. Same for sensors ie oil pressure etc)
720cc Injectors
GT2860 BB turbos
Alli flywheel
Balanced motor and flywheel
Kevlar clutch
Std gearbox and drive train
3inch exhaust all the way
Haltech plug and play, air temp, boost control solenoid
2 new wideband Air fuel sensors and gauges
New series 2 ptu
Front mount IC

Pretty sure thats it for the motor

 

Cheers for the wealth of knowledge Rob and Scotty
I'll leave the gbox for now- will put a 2nd hand one in for now to fix that issue

Rob, I am keen to get to 700 as this has been my goal when starting the project

As you seem to know these cars, I am keen for more advice:
My thoughts have been tune to 500 with what i have
Next step E85 with new pump, 1500cc injectors and flex fuel Haltech to merge fuel maps ie (500 straight pump fuel 91) and (700hp straight e85 fuel)

I am still not sold on cams and oversized valves on high boost motors but willing to listen to your educated thoughts?

Oh and obviously invest in upgrading gearbox

 

Cheers for the info
Off to get mod plates done

 

Tuner

http://www.toprpm.com.au/Top_RPM_Motorsport.html

 

I've yet to see 28RS's make more than 470kw atw on E85. That being said on 98 octane with stock cams i believe you will make around 350-375rwkw depending on the dyno/tune and about 410-420 on E85. I'd swap the cams out, but i would choose the lowest duration possible with the maximum possible lift, i missed out on some mega cheap JUN cams a while back (248 deg & ~9.5mm).

 

A very low tech explanation:

Think of an engine as a big air pump. Boost pressure is just resistance to airflow. Bigger valves and some porting means less resistance, so you now get the same amount of air into the cylinders at 10 psi instead of 12 psi.

Less pressure = less heat etc.

 

If you have an open cheque book and shooting for the moon that is fine, but at approximately $5000 for cams, valves, springs, retainers, machine work, assembly etc etc.

Its not very good bang for buck at all.

As an outline of stage costs Z1 are worthy I think. You dont see larger valves till stage 3.

$4250USD + $500USD core + $300USD freight (guesstimate) = $5050USD = $5400 + at least 10% = $6000 OUCH !

You could get it done cheaper here, buying the parts from Z1.

But its a fairly good outline of costs involved.

Shooting for 700HP this is the sort of stuff you will need to do.

+1 for Gavin Wood, based on your location and needs, if you are hell serious and have the stack go and talk to him.

But what you need to know is for green light grand prix, 700HP will probably make you slower then a 500HP car, unless you start doing transbrakes or antilag setups, nitrous etc, but that is hardly discrete and will have you off the road and deregistered in no time.

If you are looking to join the 300 club or taking it to the drag strip it might be useful.

Keep plenty of money aside for driveline work.

 

This thread says different.

http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=286067

If he wants 700hp, a head porter who knows what they're doing will go a long way in helping him get it.

 

I have been trying to insert image and given up
The pic of the headwork shows the machinist has gone to town on them
I am glad he did as I read ALL notes you all supplied- A massive amount of great literature and all points to what i wanted to acheive before pouring more money into the head

I must admit, I am a fan of high boost and anti lag which i hope to have setup in the coming months

If the high boost needs to go to acheive my 700 goal, then so be it with larger cams or longer duration

I have also been advised e85 will give approx an extra 5deg timing for those who are willing to try cheap horsepower like me

The bottom end is built to handle both. The bulk of the machine work is done and my machinist advised me early on this build, without large cams we will have to raise the boost and air cooling devices

All in all, I am thankful for everyones comments as it tought me a few key things about airflow

I will post results next month after rego, mod plates and tune for those who are interested

 

Hey just had a look at your pictures in your garage, looks really nice.

Where is the colour from ?

Have a look at Rob260's garage he has a really serious and detailed build.

He has 467rwkw which is 626rwhp.

Which is something like 730HP at the fly wheel.

When you said 700 I assumed you meant at the flywheel.

Either way his build info is pretty up to date as far as what is required, he has heaps of real nifty bits and pieces, might be cheaper to buy his car and strip it into yours.

Sorry Rob !

Here is a link to Z1 heads I meant to post above: http://www.z1motorsports.com/advanc...ds=1&plural=1&s=1&keywords=z32+tt+heads+stage

 

Until you get into lofty areas of HP, its not very good bang for buck.

But at a point you have to.

Take the $5000+ heads of rob260's car and replace them with good basic cleaned up stock heads and cams and the drop in HP for same safety would be under 100HP.

The first 100HP on a stock TT costs peanuts, each additional 100HP gets more and more expensive, cams/valves are probably the last and most expensive 100HP in this scenario.

Numbers are indicative for explanation.

Many have gotten excited and spent a heap on heads that were never needed for their goals.

At about the same point $5000+ heads come into play, for power level, major fuel system upgrades and clutch and a host of other things come along also, the price curve gets very steep.

 

doesn't really work that way .

My heads will work from stock turbos to gt3071's giving the best spool vs top end . will do this without running as much boost as most people

Its about efficiency OF MOVING AIR WHILE MAINTANING AIRSPEED

its not just the cfm (topend hp) you are porting for

if your lose bottom end power you have chosen or setup up things wrong

but yes comes down to your wallet to what level you will spend
and if you want a once off hp figure at max boost or one that does it efficiently all the time .
.

 

Yes "under the curve" matters and huge expense will give minuscule improvement in this area. But small improvements can give big rewards at a race track.

Unless you have a race team budget and under pressure for results it can be a frivolous pursuit imo.

Are you saying the first thing you do in development of a VG30DETT is bolt on $5000 heads ?

Is it the second thing ?

Its one of the last things on these engines for any sort of street use unless you are convinced you need to go north of 600 odd FWHP.

Hotter cams are going to produce a more defined range of higher efficiency and in fact will reduce spool up for high end power very much like you claim above that it wont.

From what I understand that is the reality of big turbo hot cam setups*, that are designed to produced a band of high power with in a range at the expense of drivability but with reduced effects ,,, with good setup.

* This is why they use nitrous, anti lag etc to assist spool of such setups.

A race car cares less for of the line spool and more about usable power with in higher rev ranges.

I am a little confused by your post BB.

 

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