Yep Hose from the back!!!!!!!!!!! Hah! Unfortunately no m8. See the insects and shit rot away after time and become a grubby mix of dirt and bug parts and with constant heat/cool/rain blah the stuff kinda sets once it gets started. Always best to remove the radiator and hose it out from the back. E
I am using my car much more now daily driving/sitting on the freeway etc. with auto behind it now sits higher than manual. probably around 84 at the moment. not sure if I should be worried? about it or not. I am going to remove the aircon condensor and get more flow to the radiator + weight reduction YO. will hose out my rad as im sure its full of crap again.
Wow, does everyone run an aftermarket temp gauge? Is the OEM that far out.. Mine runs just under half, should I be worried? It's always frigging hot over here in WA.... As far as I am aware the OEM viscus fan puts out more air than thermo's except at idle and the only gain by having thermo's is less engine drag. I have had thermo's on previous cars with big block and small block chevy's. Pro's and cons for both as thermo fan failure cost me 6k worth of heads once! There is no way I would remove my air con to frigging cook on this side of our big island. BTW if you can get R15 gas it is 15% more efficient than other blends.(just don't tell anyone)lol.
Oops that is R12 not "R15 Most HVAC (High Volume Air Conditioning) Units still use the stuff. Now the other thing is are all 300zx heads the same? I mean do Jap and euro heads have the same water galleries as US and Aus spec. I know some of the colder climate cars have less to prevent freeze cracking the heads in winter. I used to machine Canadian built Chevy motors out to improve cooling when used over here. The same was for other Jap spec cars. Is this the case with imported Z's??? Maybe I should "Google it".
after pulling the plenum a year ago on my tt replacing every single water bypass pipe with original Japanese set +bra new radiator +new hoses + water pump + tep sensor with Gage reader my car survived 4 days with 40°c plus tep of extreme driving
Back when I stated the thread mine sat at 83 most of time for the same driving conditions as you. Since my 120k mile service... It's sits at 78 for that the same driving conditions. It would now take a 30deg day to have it hit 83. I'm assuming its the new thermostat helping... I haven't seen a 40 deg day yet after the service... I think ill have to wait till end of the year now
Mine gets up to around 100, warning signal comes on from the ECUtalk cause I set it at that I think from memory, not sure what the max can be but that is normally on an extremely hot day in Melb or Sydney like 45 or so and I have a FMIC but PWR Twin Pass Radiator also..... also I'm not sure I might of been a bit low on coolant from memory but yeah all around 30 degree days are never a problem. I have one of the fans removed also (the one that comes on with the AC) due to there being no room once I installed the dual air filters with FMIC, fat radiator etc etc but I only use AC if I'm moving and in short bursts to compensate. As I said never a problem unless it hits a 45 degree odd day and even that might of been just low coolant to water levels.
slightly lower range thermostat for 300zx Z32 http://m.ebay.com/itm/111294659275?cmd=VIDESC&gxo=true Stainless steel
Cruising 120kph, outside air temp 23C, Nismo thermostat, oem fan/clutch with shroud, AMS radiator. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yLejiODkec4 Static test. Outside air temp 24C, Taurus efan, Nismo thermostat, AMS radiator. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fmj-h8ZE3-o
Of course you make the good point about flow rate once the car has warmed up, so I put it to the seller to tell me how the fully open flow rate compares to OEM and how that would be an important feature to advertise, he was kind enough to give me his answer.
What is the obsession with running engines at lower thermostatted temps that stock? This does nothing with regards to overall cooling, only the temps the engine actually runs at. Everything in the ECU is tuned around *blah* degrees C water temp yet these manufacturers insist on supplying lower opening temp thermostats on the vague promise that your engine will run cooler. Well, assuming the cooling system is up to scratch, yes it will. However, it will NOT compensate for an under performing cooling system which will STILL overheat. And the question remains.... is WHY? Even with the thermostat removed, the engine will overheat if the rest of the cooling system is not performing. Its absurd to alter a fundamental engine tuning parameter on the mistaken belief that the engine will resist overheating. Those with bone stock and maintained cooling systems NEVER seem to have overheating issues.... ever!!!! E
Codswallop. Ill dispute that til the cows come home. And again, the question is WHY? Ill bet no-one who has fitted such bollocks can actually answer why! Look at every cooling system issue and invariably the owner (or someone else) has modified the system. Its unnecessary and a woftam. E
I'm thinking of starting a range of aftermarket parts -the tag line will be "works at best as good as stock"
Most of these 'modified' cooling system is usually replacing 25 year old rusty junk radiator with a $100 Chinese radiator.
