Sorry guys, I don't know what else to call it. My drivers side zorst has a nice healthy pressue coming out, whereas the passenger side seems like it's hardly there. The car runs a bit rough (rich??), and the takeoff is ok but not great. Doing a balance check, it seems that one side of the engine is doing all the work compared to the other (i.e. left vs right). I don't know if there is a term for this condition. Sorry. What do you think? Is it some kind of fuel rail problem? Apologies if this has been answered before. I searched for unbalanced, but have no other way to describe it.
Do the things in your how I fixed my idle guide again Then try and get a hold of a consult cable / datascan / ecutalk, that's where the magic lies. Else, so 3 of the cylinders didn't drop the engine speed down much when their coil pack connectors were pulled? If you suspect an overly rich mixture, try using your nose to sus it out. Psycodelik had a similar problem where 3 cylinders weren't firing at all at idle, the moment you revv'ed all 3 would pop back on. Not sure what the fix was.
Didn't pull the coil pack connectors. I didn't think I did anything that would affect all 3 cylinders on the one side, but now I think about it, one side didn't seem to be running that well. So you think connectors in general? If so, Contact cleaner here I come again. If that's it, any idea where to start?
maybe you have unbalanced throttole boddies or onces really dirty?? other wise it could be a rather sick O2 sensor on one side causing a real rich/lean area on one side. i seem to be having a one rich side on the drivers according the the much larger amount of carbon on that sides exhaust. do an ecu O2 check, from what i remember its not to hard to do and it tells you pritty straight if an o2 sensors playing up
Thanks mate. Both sensors seem to be doing the whole left\right rapid movement thing, and I understand that is what is required.
Lol pretty much all the connectors in your guide, the coil pack connectors, IAV connectors, injector connectors, CAS connector, PTU connectors, CTS connector, AFM connector.... lol everything man! When I got my car, it was running on 5 cyls. It was a bargaining point for me, when I got home I cleaned the connectors and voila, 6 cyls roaring
Damn. Some of those connectors are just H A R D to get to. Ok, I'll start with them. I'll pull em all, clean em with the Contact cleaner, and then make sure they are connecting ok.
Get a tissue, stick it under the connector, spray CRC cleaner on top from the wire end of the connector, then use a small jewellers flathead and scrape the gunk out / scrape the metal contacts while the cleaner drips down into the tissue filling it with green crap. Which ones? I haven't really had any problems getting to them except the 2 rear injector connectors, which are somewhat easy to get to once the balance pipe is off anyway. Might be worth checking your spark plugs too.
I shall be watching this thread. As I have a similar condition. Passenger side zorst is also very weak/nonexistant :S Let me know what you come up with Cheers, Tom
could be a collapsed cat mate on that side !! considering you have good compression on both banks . exhaust should be equal.. id be checking for a blockage or restriction !!
Me too. Unbalanced sums it up well. In my case, first thing I noticed was that the RHS exhaust felt hotter to my hand than the LHS. This is at idle while checking for steam or oil discharge with the engine at operating temp. I've got a 4 input temperature data logger so if someone asks for hard data I can bombard them with Excel graphs but the short version is that one side is hotter than the other at idle. I could even rig 2 thermocouples at the exhaust tips & go for a drive while logging the data, I'm tempted to do this for shits & giggles anyway. Been on the forum all night researching this. One point that came up repeatedly is how unburnt fuel gets burnt in the cats and raises their temperature. I assume this means a hotter discharge ? Initially I believed the colder LHS temp was the problem, now I'm not so sure. Could it be that the RHS bank is running rich or mis-firing & dumping unburnt fuel into the exhaust at idle, thus driving the temperature at the exhaust tip upwards via it being burnt in the cat ? I've just gotten Datascan running on a tablet PC ( thanks Caz ) to help with sorting this problem. About 3 hours ago I stumbled across a checklist on the forum which helps to clarify what the readings mean & what they should be. Project for tomorrow, too effin cold & late for that now. Anything you blokes come up with would be helpful, plus I'll show ya mine if you'll show me yours... ( bet mine's smaller !! )
get under the car when its cold and give it a firm tap. if it rattles its buggerd. use a rubber mallet or somthing similur.
I believe that dumping unburnt fuel into the exhaust will result in a lower temperature on that side. i experienced this when I had exhaust valves being held open by displaced hat in the hydraulic lifters
"Dumps", "Test pipes", "Cats" Damn, what language are you guys talking? I'm a computer programmer\Electronic Technician. Ask me something about #INCLUDE, STRUCT or plain old DO UNTIL. Alternatively, talk to me about Long Range Air Search RADAR, Binary Arithmetic or Doppler. Throw in a Klystron or two, and I'm happy. WTF? How do I work out what has gone wrong? Can someone speak english please? (Sorry in advance for my obvious lack of automotive expertise) :zlove::zlove::zlove:
dumps = pipe running from back of turbo or na exhaust headers to the front part section of the exhaust...... cats = catalytic convertor, a small muffler like object in the middle of the exhaust designed to remove dangerous gases from the exhaust gases, they are made of a ceramic honeycomb like structure, called a "biscuit"....upgrades involve moving to a more open weave of honeycomb, usually made of a more metalic material and to increase flow and reduce back pressure.....metalcat, magnaflow and others make these higher flowing cats (catalytic convertor) back pressure = the amount of pressure present in a exhaust in psi before it exits to atmosphere, low backpressure (or "free flowing") is good for forced induction motors test pipes = a pipe which removes the catalytic convertor by replacing with a straight peice of pipe to allow better exhaust gas flow and therefore, increases performance........has a side effect of lowering exhaust back pressure, so much more beneficail to turbo cars, as na engines require a degree of back pressure to work correctly/ optimally...good for performance, bad for enviroment and very illegal
