Have been looking at replacing/rebuilding my turbos. Would like other members input on whether they think the new JWT 700's kit would be a good choice or whether I should just get the new cores GT2535.CONZEPT zed apparently has them on special for $3600.00 American.http://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=436&UID=I also believe that the new Garret GT28RS would be the same turbo (disco Potato???). Can get for $1100.00 each US + shipping from.www.atpturbo.com/ but I wouldnt be getting the 5 bolt down pipes and gaskets if I bought separetly.Any info would be appreciated and yes I have searched the forums extensively.
My opinion. GT2535's should be avoided... simply ridiculous prices for very everage housings. (less you bastardise other housings, and milling the t25 not really the ideal) Garrett GT cartridges are ok value now. JWT 700's? better but still maybe better options value for money. GT28RS *thumbs up* but maybe the GT28R is better value for money... (Garrett not really great quality either but quite acceptable) 5 bolt ss 3 inch divorced dumps $100USD each no big deal. Have you considered a td05? cheaper then Garrett GT28R and near perfect for the Z. Will flow 550 cfm or about 380hp. (SAE I think) Cheers,
where do your get this info from egg have you run all these turbo's. I run HKS25/30's and find them to be great turbo's and do just what i want them to do they are good for over 500Hp, but yes there are others out there that will do more but i have all that i need. I think thats the best way to look at turbo's "WHAT IS IT YOU WANT FROM THEM"because i find the 25/30's to be a good balance between punch and lag :YD
No argument mate. Great turbo, just insanely expensive! Not worth the dough in my opinion that's all. better to buy a GT CHRA and use new housings and save 50% that's all. Even something like a precision Garrett GT half the money! Just an opinion. Cheers,
Disco Potato explained... It's a reference to a car that appeared in Sport Compact car magazine that first used this spec of turbo. The car was a Sentra I think and the colour of the car was a beige metallic pearl which people described as a "Disco Potato" because it looked like a glittery potato...
Just a consideration for you I have noticed over time that there is a lot of talk about turbos with ball/roller bearings as opposed to Garretts with plain bronze bushings. You should be aware that Garrett is essentially an aerospace equipment manufacturer and that turbos for cars is an off shoot of that technology, be it a little conservative at times. However a pecuilar thing happens to hi speed assemblies that use ball or roller bearings for minimising friction loads. The actual ball/roller aquaplanes on the oil and doesnt rotate at various speeds. This causes flat spots on the bearing faces.This is quite common in jet engines so much so that the various thrust bearings (ball as opposed to roller)in the engine which suffer hi wear rates due to this phenomenon are manufactured slightly out of round so that the ball will "pick-up" as it were and get the actual bearing rotating instead of planing. The higher the speed the higher the wear. With turbos bronze bearings may seem a little agricultural but its not without merit and I think that service life is an important consideration. So before you separate with you hard earned cash dont be lured by the sales pitch about what sort of bearings your turbos have. Furthermore the bronze bush is far more tolerant of impurities in auto engine oil than a hi speed ball will ever be.}) regards John
i didnt mean it to sound like an argument Opp's ...im just slack at typing and sometimes dont write the whole story of what im thinking, sorry didnt mean it to sound the way it read:YD
More Questions Inside. Thanks for all the info. Have been mainly looking at the GT28rs turbos. When ordering you have a choice of GT or T3/4 dropin exhaust housing style. Believe I would need the GT style housing, is this correct? GT28r turbos would be a bigger saving at $775.00 each US + delivery. EGG where can you can you get 5 bolt 3" dumps for $100.00 US each and TDO5's for less than the GT28R turbo.All info is muchly appreciated.
Forgot to mention. New exhaust manifolds for the TDO5's would be a quite an added expense. Could probably make at work but would be very time consuming.
These? I have my sources. I know the guy that makes them and get regular shipments. egregiousatbigponddotcom if you want some. $110USD each. And TD05h-16G's with the EvoIII clip are available all over the place for less then $775.00. Will outflow a Garrett GT28RS and I like MHI as they're beautifully made and can take big boost all day long without fail. (just got to look at them, no cruddy casting dags like Garrett) But hey, just my opinion Garrett aren't bad by any stretch of the imagination. Cheers, [image]http://www.mustangmods.com/data/1552/dumps.jpg[/image]
Perhaps. An adaptor would work ok... td05 qhite a small circular flange and I reckon a simple adaptor would work. But seriousy, you don't really want that cruddy stock cast manifold anyway, will let down whatever turbs you buy. And porting and extrude honing does SFA. Cheers,
TD05H-16G / EVO for US$530/$600 from Turbocalculator. probably can be found even cheaper, but at the price still present damn good value. They are internal wastegate however (whereas the greddy kit is external wastegate).
Not sure about them... ...think turboalculator could be a scam? $599 is their price on the Evo3 clip. (10 degree clip) Yes, internal wastegate which probably suits us better and not three bolt Greddy flange. I think they're a bit suss! Cheers,
Where else??? Where else would you get these turbos from EGG and does anyone no a good/fairly priced workshop to build the manifolds in MELBOURNE??? Would complete installation myself. ALso what dumps would you need to go with these turbos (EVO type). Still weighing up all my options before I jump straight in. Have been pricing HP rebuild kit with WISECO forged pistons 8.5 compresion, EAGLE rods, race bearings, arp bolts and copper head gasket. Very cheap at $1664.00 US + delivery from www.importperformanceparts.net/. Would be great to do all at this work at once but turbos are a priority. Still pulls hard put the smoke is not attractive. x( x( x(
Another opinion.... Firstly, youve never really stated what your HP goals are. Nor what sort of lag your prepared to put up with. Its a bit easier if we know what your after. I see your getting forged pistons and rods and a copper gasket so Im presuming you want something with some pritty decent power, or else thats a bit of overkill.Like Egg said, cant stress enough the importance of getting some decent manifolds. Im not a believer in having anything done to the stock manifolds in terms of improving their flow. When your starting from such a poor design its better to get a proper set rather than try to fix something thats crap. Anything while keeping stock manifolds will limit your max horsepower and slow your spoolup.TD05 isnt a bad turbo. Certainly always a good performer in terms of power. Can easily make 500 sae at the wheels. You can upgrade them to an 18g style that will make an easy 600 rwhp but obviously the tradeoff is in spoolup. I think overall these are quite laggy though.Genuine 2530s are a very nice choice. Great spool and with good engine work and manifolds have put out close to 600 sae rwhp. Expensive but a very good turbo. Well proven performer.My choice, was to go for PE1420s. Didnt know much about them when I put them on the car, but so far seem to be performing nicely. Should make you a minimum of 500sae rwhp and Ive heard of some up to 560 still on plain premium gas. Great spoolup IMO. Peak HP at 5500rpm, making boost sub 3000rpm. Go from $2800US a pair.
Hmmm. Dunno... I don't think a TD05 would be that laggy at all. Standard TD05h-16g flows about 500cfm and the Evo3 550. 10 degree clip gives it a lil more flow and apparantly spools faster. 1100cfm is 760hp but yeah 600 is more realistic. At $1,000USD a pair hard to complain though. (now if we could only have manifolds for under $1,500) hmmmm, lemme see what's cooking And yeah, standard bearings might be a bit agricultural but they do have a few bonuses. Ohhh yeah Nathan... your dyno says "Power Corrected PS SAE" they could be real ponies maybe? Cheers,
Yeah all the dynos Ive seen... have a fair bit of lag on them with TD05s. Its all relative though. What I should say is that they spool slower than the 2530s and slower than the pe1420s. Appears not to hit peak power until 6300rpm on average. All the comparisons Im going by are on this page: Click HereI didnt quite understand what you were asking with the last question about PS SAE?
Your dyno says. "Power Corrected PS SAE" so if it's been corrected I'm thinking it's real horsepower and not SAE. Perhaps Cheers,
Its confusing but your the first to pick it. People get very narky for some reason if they think your trying to make out you have more HP than you do So Ive just put it on my sig as 520 SAE. Your the first one I know thats spoted it. The confusing thing is that as far as I can tell there is no such thing as a PS SAE. Its just PS and PS is roughly a fraction under a DIN HP. This is my understanding of my power conversion. A PS is a Pferdestarke, a german metric unit of calculating horsepower. Its equivalent to 75 kilogram meters of work per second or 542.5 foot pounds per second. Now a kilowatt is 745.6999 foot pounds per second, so if you do the maths to covert 520 PS into kilowats you will get 378rwkw. Convert that back again and you get 514 DIN rwhp, not the 460 DIN rwhp that people presumed, or roughly 580.8 SAE rwhp Not bad ponies hey. This makes sense as I cant see why speedworks would be using US based HP readings instead of aussie ones. As I said though, Ive never commented as the SAE part is confusing. Saying PS sae is equivalent to saying kw SAE in my mind. Doesnt make sense. What I was waiting to do, was get my car back then run it on the same dyno I used before my rebuild which does run in SAE HP. Then I can see if I hit 580 odd to be certain. When its confirmed I will change it on my sig.EDIT: Actually Ive done a bit more reading and PS sae is exactly the same as PS. So your right, its actually 514rwhp (DIN) or 378rwkw. Might update my sig unless anyone finds fault in that.
