Yeah got one of those jacks but turned out it was a small one so I returned it. (Dont think 30cm max raised height was enough). As for the jack stands, ive got one pair at the moment. I need another do I?
Mmm good plan. Built my engine crane and got a engine trolley thingy today Need another jack and im good for engine out.
If you're pulling the gearbox seperate to the engine then another set of stands to get the car level helps when you're under there. Not strictly needed but helps.
Just after some of everyone elses knowledge here. Planned all the new parts for the tt engine and just wanted to know if theres anything you guys would recommend maintenance-wise before I put it all together. Ill list what ive got and plan on getting/doing below. If theres anything important ive missed, or something which should probably be upgraded in order to handle any mods im doing, please let me know. Might be some real simple things ive missed. On a 94 tt engine stock I believe. Walbro Fuel Pump NPower 2.5" 4-bolt dumps+ front pipes. Boost controller- not sure which, cheapish with adjustable hi and lo settings. Proper Water temp gauge Boost Gauge TT flywheel (dont know what yet) TT clutch (dont know what yet) FMIc (dont know what yet) Waterpump Overdrive Pulley GFB Hybrid BOV (Single BOV at this point, going to attempt 5ticky's mod). Done a under plenum water hose bypass Will do the FPCU bypass Replaced the two short water hoses after hardpipe Replaced all vacc hoses with silicon Replaced all shotty looknig water hoses New rear main seal New coolant temp sensor as old one looked real corroded. Had a set of balance tube o-rings so put them on. Is there anything else I should do while its all out? I heard new 02 sensors is a smart idea. Can I somehow check the state of mine? As I have a set on both engines so wouldnt mind re-using if theyre good. Any way to check state of other things like det sensor?
when i do mine i'm doing much as you've stated, cleaning up wiring that i can, clean all connectors while it's out. Replacing all coolant hoses, pcv hoses valves etc. Removing EGR (though this may render it illegal if you need to get it engineered). And as you've stated, rear main seal and the rest. Also going to reseal cam (some will call them 'rocker') covers as they tend to leak a bit of oil. pretty much doing everything maintenance wise to avoid hassles later on. I'm also doing a 100 thousand k service while i'm there. Better to be safe than sorry
Everything is out had a day yesterday to do a bit of work. Got the engine and transmission out. Then garaged the car as im going overseas in a few days. Clean shell to continue work on when I get back in March. Got a bit stuck with seperating the transmission and engine. That took up most of the day (after all bolts had been removed). After a bunch or wriggling and jacking up/down craning up/down eventually the transmission came free. So in the end I got it all done with help from forum member pmack over the phone when I got stuck a few times. Next step in 2months time or so is going to be working on the new engine getting it all prepared..
good news mate! its a bit of fun connecting the gearbox back up eh, bit of a wrestle. gotta get mine back together - at the rate your going you'll beat me to doing the conversion!
Hey guys. Just wanting to gather some information so I can start work again as soon as I get back. I have a JWT ECU to replace the na ecu with. Just wondering how do I do this? Is it a simple unplug old one, plug in new one task? If so how do I get to this? From the passenger footwell taking various bits of trim off, unplugging it, removing the loom from the engine bay? Then replacing it all?
if your jwt ecu is the whole ecu, (not just the chip to socket into an existing ecu), then its plug and play. However, it is strongly advisable to have the ecu tuned for your car. to replace ecu, pull up the carpet in passenger footwell, remove wooden kick panel (4 bolts) remove zip ties around the cabling connected to the ecu, undo the bolt that holds the ecu harness in the ecu and it should simply come loose when you undo the bolt. I havent had experience with the jwt's, maybe someone else can comment. But i know COZ sells them on a changeover basis so i assume you have a whole jwt ecu in its enclosure ready to plug in. In which case it should be no dramas, well apart from the other na/tt swapping issues.
Only issue i can see is replacing the wiring harness. Some say it can be done dash in, I found it hard (time consuming and generally annoying - like all workk on the zed) with the dash and aircon out. So you may want to investigate that at the same time. a tech article will show you hoow to remove the dash.
Why bother changing the harness? I don't see the point. And the JWT ecu will be fine, it's quite a safe tune.
Yeah its a complete ECU with its metal compartment. Also I plan on doing a dyno tune after I get it all working since im messing with so many things. Icant remember why I wanted to swap at the moment, havent thought about it for a while. The whole FPCU business and 3speed fuel pump business. Althought I remember something about being able to use an aftermarket (might get a Walbro) pump and doing a FPCU bypass or something? Ill figure that out again when I get back. (went overseas right after I elarnt all this so ive forgotten it already)
Well you could change the engine harness from NA to TT, but the fuel pump signal wires are predominantly in the body harness, it's only one extra wire. Not worth a whole days work to change. Bypass the FPCU and run a Walbro, I think I told you that before. It's the easiest, but not necessarily the best way. Most preferable would be to use the TT FPCU and a new TT fuel pump.
A quick question about the shim. I had the idea that this was a special part not standard that I needed to adapt the gearbox. But I see the na clutch and stuff I took off have a metal washerlike thing. Is the shim I need just an OEM nissan part I just need the tt one? Meaning I can pick it up from a nissan dealer?
The hsim is a big piece of sheet metal that goes between the gearbox and the engine. It is huge, and by no means an adaptor. It's just a shim.
Hang on which shim are we talking about? The gearbox one or the one that spaces the starter out so you can use a NA gearbox with a TT fly and clutch? The gearbox one is the same for NA and TT, you won't need a new one unless you have lost the old one. The starter one is available from Z1.
I have the one that came off with my gearbox. Im after one so I can use the n/a gearbox with tt engine yes. So this isnt a standard part eh. Lucky. I was about to make payment for a second-hand gearbox shim. Ill check out Z1 now...
Ok was reading up on what I need for the FPCU bypass and it said in the tech I need 3mm or 4mm wire to splice in... 3mm?? thats pretty damn thick. Like audio power cable thickness. I bought a length of 0.2mm wire as it looked the size of most electrics in the car. That 60cents might just save me going bak to the shops Just reconfirming, what kind of wire should I use? What I got looks bigger than o.2mm so I think it means each individual wire thread is 0.2mm, the whole cluster of wires is 3mm. Is that what was meant?
