STILL overheating, never been so frustrated in my life :(

Depends on

what kind off test equipment is used. You can use a kit worth 50-60 $ or use an epa type tester worth thousands.
The cheep kit is like a P/H test kit,(coloured dye's in a bottle) totally unreliable.

 

is it possible the radiator is too big and you do not have enough airflow to it

 

Another option is to have them run a cooling system pressure test -- if any thing is leaking out the pressure guage should show that too (just another way to double check things)...

 

You'd think so but mine was clean as a whistle.. probably due to the previous owner trying to find the problem, I wasn't overheating but it would boil at the heater pipes when I switched the engine off (at low 80 degrees). It turned out to be a clogged up banjo bolt in the coolant line to one of the turbos.. I don't know if there are other parts of the engine which are restricted and would lead to poor flow.. well actually the casting flash up is pretty bad in these engines, I guess it's possible a yours could be worse than normal or the cooling system was simply neglected for a time causing crap to build up.

 

I know its a long shot ... but have you contemplated the fact that a Patagonian Toothfish may be living in your upper radiator tank , and blocking flow . On second thoughts i guess not .

 

I believe I had this problem but it wasn't causing any spikes in temperature, possible I guess if the valve is really shagged. I removed the EGR pipes which run to the front of the plenum on both sides and cut alloy plates to install instead to seal the plenum. She ran great after that and it means that plenum pulls are easy now.

Cheers,
Matt


If I read the article correctly this means that with that line plugged and there for no vacuum operation, my EGR valve is relying only on it's internal spring to remain closed all the time. If this is the case and the spring happens to be faulty or the valve is not sealing properly this could lead to an unknown amount of exhaust gas re-circulating back to the intake system and upping the engine temp.

So does this sound plausible and fit my symptoms?
And if so how would I go about checking/testing?

Regards
Ben

PS, Thanks for the support Black Baz, I hope your right [/QUOTE]

 

This is what was used. After everyone sobers up and goes back to work i'l take it to another workshop and have it tested again.

Thanks
Ben

 

Hmmm, yeah I don't think that will turn out to be the case, I hear they like colder climates.....

Ben

 

If you have

cut the hard pipes to the plenum and block them, it wont matter if the egr is working or not, there is no way it can recirculate any exhaust gas back to the plenum. But it can still be a problem because if the diaphragm is perforated it will leak pressure. Just get rid off the whole thing, including the actuator and cap the nipple under driver?s side throttle body.


If I read the article correctly this means that with that line plugged and there for no vacuum operation, my EGR valve is relying only on it's internal spring to remain closed all the time. If this is the case and the spring happens to be faulty or the valve is not sealing properly this could lead to an unknown amount of exhaust gas re-circulating back to the intake system and upping the engine temp.


So does this sound plausible and fit my symptoms? Maybe!!
And if so how would I go about checking/testing?

To test the EGR valve operation, start the engine and then disconnect the control hose The EGR valve should open and engine should slow or hesitate. If disconnecting the hose makes no difference, either the hose is leaky/ blocked or the EGR exhaust gas pipes are blocked.

The basic failure of an EGR valve is the diaphram that senses intake maifold vacuum and opens/closes the valve. With a clean hose on the control input, suck on the hose and put your tongue against the open end of the hose. It should hold the lower pressure, stick to your tongue, for at least a minute. You can do the same test with a vacuum gauge of course, if you have one. If the valve won't hold low pressure, then it won't close completely at idle and your engine will idle poorly.
Regards
Ben

PS, Thanks for the support Black Baz, I hope your right [/QUOTE][/QUOTE]

 

Just been out poking around at the EGR stuff on my car. I've already said that i've removed all the solonoid stuff and plugged the hose from the tb. Even before I did this though someone had previously plugged the line from what I though was the egr valve. But now just looking at it there is no hose coming from the top of the egr valve.

I'll go try sticking a hose on there and sucking.

[/QUOTE][/QUOTE]

 

The valve seems to be holding suction ok.
Would this mean that the system has been pretty much disabled seeing as there was no hose on there?

Ben

 

Hey everyone.

I've got a little more info but it might be unreliable.
I purchased a compression tester but I think it's dodgy.

I got test results of 90 psi for a few cylinders and 100 for the rest.

As I said I think the tester is dodgy but if these are accurate readings I wonder why my car still recently made 280rwkw.

I'm well and truely sick of the sight of my engine bay now. Time to palm it off to a mechanic and see what they say. At this point I don't really care about the cost I just want it FIXED!

Ben

 

was the engine warm?

 

I would'nt

be to worried about those psi figures, even though there low. The main thing is they dont vary wildly, which is a bad sign. The fact you made 280rwk should ease your mind a little. If i were you i wouldn't say anything to your machinic about low compression, all he'll be thinking is expensive rebuild time then!

 

Good point, I mean to mention that.
I already had coil packs and plugs out last week and wasen't going to put them back in again today just to warm up the engine. I'm guessing that can quite a bit of difference then?

Ben

 

christ ben, this is beyond belief .. still no solution ..

... someone must have some new approaches, ideas ....????

..the lad needs help .....!!!!

 

yeah, even more so when it hasn't run for a while.. I suspect it'll be more like 140-150 when warm.

 

I'm thinking of seeing if I can make it to the upcoming tech day. Maybe something will jump out at someone or some ideas will flow with the car physically in front of them.
It should be allright as long as it's not a stinking hot day.

Ben

 

does it actually boil or move coolant to the overflow or are you just going by your temp readings?

 

I haven't read the whole post but...

Temp rising when under load / highway driving or going up hills

THEN

going down when coasting is a 'classic' sign of a blocked radiator.

You can show good flow with 3/4 of he cores blocked!!!!

Get radiator rodded out.

This is often overlooked, which is strange as is is the radiators job to exchange heat....so when temps start to rise this is the best 1st port of call.

Did it to ours....haven't looked back.

Also...when overheating problems develope later... you know what it is not!