Can someone please give me the type number for appropriate spark plug replacement? I have a bad misfire (sounds like a misfire - car nearly dies after about 4000RPM), after much reading I am pretty sure this is spark related. Any other possible lines of enquirey? Can't be injectors, only other thing I can think of is problems with fuel delivery (i.e. pump or regulator - how can I test these?)
Hi I am using NGK Double Platinum Plugs (PFR5B-11B) and have found them to be excellent so far. Also check for corrosion on the injector and ignition module connectors. They often get covered in nice green corrosion build up. :thumbsup:
All electrical connections TPS, injectors etc all checked (recently completed plenum pull). Aparently the 5Bs are too hot, need a colder plug 6B, but talking with Repco they say they have PFR6B-11s but not PFR6B-11Bs, what is the difference?
Decided to get the plugs that TTzed sell BKR6EIX-11 Irridiums, but I am buying from Repco. Anyone else using these? Hope to hell they work alright.
Doh...Sorry. Have PFR6B-11installed... Just checked the boxes they come in. The originals from Import were PFR5B-11B (Still kept them in case.) :wacko:
well here is everything i found on the topic According to the z32 service manual PFR6B-11C would be the winner. spark plugs uk site extract: 'The standard Nissan plugs for a TT are PFR6B-11B, PFR6B-11C may do but they are a little shorter and the car may be more prone to detonation. Here's a great chart from NGK, which explains exactly what the numbers mean (PDF viewer required).' spark plug chart - explains codes extract: PFR6A-11 Explanation from chart: P: [Plug Type] - Premium Platinum F: [Metal Shell Size] - ø 14, 19mm (3/4") Reach, 16mm (5/8") Hex. R: [Construction] - Resistor 6: [Heat Rating Numbers] - 2-hot --> 11-cold A: [Firing End Construction] - A, B, C...: Special Design 11: [Wide Gap] - 1.1mm (0.44") spark plug tech article extract: Part Numbers: 6x Heat Rating (NA,TT) Hot type (PFR5B-11, PFR5B-11B) Standard type (PFR6B-11,PFR5B-11B) Colder types (PFR7B-11, PFR6B-11B PFR6B-11C) extract from z32 manual (They r diff to above) Part Numbers: 6x Heat Rating (NA,TT) Hot type (PFR5B-11, PFR5B-11C) Standard type (PFR6B-11,PFR6B-11C) Colder types (PFR7B-11, PFR6B-11C) of course, depending on where you look depends on what your answer is:wacko: hope this was as confusing for you as it has been for me:LOL:
Ok I have removed old plugs (pics inside) Are these plugs bad? This pic shows a busted plug, not sure if this was done during removal, if it wasn't this would be enough to cause a bad misfire at high revs yes?:wacko: I am in the process of installing new ones, is it true you should screw them in and then screw them back out again 1/4 turn?
if unsure if you need to replace the plugs, you can always try some coppers for around $30 a set.. ie. ZFR6F-11 I've got some Densos and while they looked fine, I was getting a misfire, switching them didn't cure it so will be putting them back in after a few thousand k's on the coppers.
Can anyone tell if these plugs are rooted? There was a tech article around somewhere which showed then ends of heaps of different explained how to "read them".
The plug on the right is working, but looks very rich .... The plug on the left is dead by the look of it, but has also been running very rich. Good plugs (and tuning), should display a pale grey colour on the centre electrode, and a darker grey/brown on the rim of the plug. Too light grey allover = too lean. Too dark grey/black = too rich.
Looks like you've found the cause(s) of the high RPM misfire. Everything else is new/overhauled ... Remember your 02's were completely rooted and therefore that would explain the running rich and the car has only done 50 or so kays on the new 02's... the old plugs may have been too far gone and that cracked one probably had a hairline crack before you got it out- was it plug #2 (front pass side)?
Well the new ones fixed my problem (pics inside, no dial up) I had a bad misfire at high revs, and it got worse very quickly, i think the car has always been running rich despite the fact the O2s showed up as good when Datascan was done a few times. The O2s have now been replaced but the car still runs rich (although that is based on figure taken whilst bad plug and horrible misfire was present, will be interesting to see if new plug have an effect). Next move will be to try and figure out what else could cause the car to be running rich - any ideas? - and after that maybe an Apexi S-AFC2 to correct the mixture. Here are some photos taken today after cleaning:
car looks nice scott yeah i think my car is running rich.. had some things done at the tech day today and my timing is set at 20 degree's i think i will bump it back to 15 just to be on the safe side and off to see why it does run rich also. I think i am due to have the plugs changed i had a look at time not long ago and they looked fine to me. I dont know how many kms i get out of a full tank tho... only ever got it down to 1/4 left and had just over 300kms done.. Nath
I WAS getting 300kms out of full tank (calculated on 150kms per half tank) Do you have blow off valves? I know that they are a cause of many incorrect air/fuel mixtures because they are disbursing metered air out of the system, the Apexi S-AFC2 has a function to corret this though.
