there only seems to be the regulator, nothing between the filter and rail. I'm going to get a set of O-rings today, do i need the insulators as well?
depends on their condition. sometimes they are split/falling apart. for the sake a of a few extra dollars i would get a new set of insulators too
It might be a good idea to have the injectors cleaned checked and flow tested while they are out. About $200. Not much point changing the o-rings if the injector is stuck open.
Found the problem. when the car is primed but the injector loom is unplugged there are no leaks when the car is primed or started with the loom plugged in #6 squirts fuel out @ 100% time to find why
it's a huge pain in the ass because i can't find my multimeter so i'm having to use a test light. the problem is with the #6 injector plug, as soon as i plug it into #4 then that injector starts squirting out fuel at 100% One of the pins in the #6 injector is perminantly grounded, time to find where, then how and who and what
The ECU sends the trigger pulse to the injector to fire it. Simple solution is to run a new wire from the ECU pinout to # 6 injector earth. Terminate the existing ECU <> injector plug earth wire about 2 inches out of the ECU and same distance away from the injector. Run a fresh wire to join the new terminations. This is far quicker and more reliable than trying to locate the problem earth source on the existing wire. Trust me ... You may do more damage to other wires by unwrapping them looking for the existing cause. My approach: fix the original problem before creating new ones Service manual link ECU pin 114 is a white with blue stripe wire which fires injector 6. Note: service manual reference to wire colour W/L is a white wire with a blue stripe
cheers, seems it's earthing at the mirotech though. I pulled the white cabled plug out that goes betweent he microtech and the Z32 patch interface and it's no longer earthed
Make sure the Air reg connector and #6 injector connector aren't mixed up. The air reg will have a 12v feed and ground when cold, the injector connector shouldn't have a ground with the engine off, key on.
If its original, but its unlikely to be, these connections get the hottest and people including me use a common two pin replacement and file the locating tag of the connector. I bet Eric is right, you have the air regulator connected to #6 injector
I'm guessing it's not for these reasons -the car was driving before it died, if the two plugs had been mixed up the problem would have shown itself immediately post install -when i unplug the ECU the #6 injector is no longer earthed. -there is still a blue plug that fits the air reg problem seems to be the ECU, probably a hardware issue but i've downloded the software and am about to go see what i can see
Erics suggestion about air reg is a good one. same thing can happen with det sensor and LHS VCT connectors. However, I see you have successfully isolated the microtech as the issue. Could be an internal diode failed on the #6 injector circuit allowing constant earth signal. Well done on the process of elimination approach. Good to see! Much better than changing a whole bunch of things and not knowing what fixed
why not just borrow a microtech ecu and test if its that. im sure you can throw one in with a generic tune and see if it will idle properly.. or even a stock ecu with a generic tune so it will run and you can test the injector with. or am i missing the point?
microtech with a Z32 tune would be too hard to find, I did ask someone for a stock ECU today. Will probably just plug in the one from my N/A as it will work to dignose an earth in the microtech.
Hey mate, I had the same issue, one of the injector drivers overloaded and melted closed, grounding an injector perminately. I replaced the ecu and fixed the issue.
I'm hoping microtech can fix the issue inside a week. pretty depressing that a fault like this may have cost an engine
yeah, mine was only running for about a minute, and I almost set fire to the garage...the amount of fuel in the exhaust basically caused a fire that would not stop burning...lucky i had the fire extinguisher in the car...but no hydro-lock damage. Changed the oil in case of fuel contamination and swapped the ecu and all good.