Wondering if any of my fellow zedders have the SAW kit installed along with avalve body modded auto. My temps always seem to climb up to 100c+ even if I change the line pressure from 30% to 45% (zero being maximum according to the manual?). I have an external oil cooler in one of the side mount positions... Cheers
PM Member Altari He had one running with both a while ago. Same result ran too hot. He ended up putting a manual in it. I am sure he can enlighten you further.
LOL thanks for your impatient ungrateful one. I think your stuffed and should get rid of that piece of shit SAW, I will relieve you of further problems by swapping you a used heater core for it. LOL's aside. I assume you are getting a flashing H on your SAW gauge, its preset to 100c and is using the sensor in the trans to read that, 100c isnt bad, but how far are you going past it ? I also reckon due to the way that sensor works its quiet easy for it to be inaccurate, at 100c its using a signal of 0.17V, via connectors and old sensor you could easily be registering high especially as lower V is higher temp. You need a separate trans temp gauge, with an in-line housing for the sensor on the out hose going to the cooler, one that the sensor wont poke through and partially bloke flow. You need to know exactely or you will be pulling up early all the time using the flashing H on the SAW gauge. Temps IMHO Running up to 120 for short periods is sort of maybe probably OK 115 preferred max 110 acceptable 100 or less preferred cruising around. That seems a bit vauge, its about accumulated risk. Less high temp less often means trans last longer. You will gain temperature very easily but have difficulty getting rid of it unless you have a MASSIVE cooler, as in replace your nose panel with one about that size, with excellent fresh air, I would soil my pants for a curved nose panel replacement like what is available for the R33. Horny work by ARE Cooling. With oil coolers face area is far more important then thickness. So huge thin ones are the go. Also allow your lockup to engage where possible, no heat is being produced in the TQ when it is. Higher stall TQ will produce more heat. So those going manualised with hi stall and no lockup good luck. Run synthetic oil, it is more resistant to high temp break down. Service transmission annually. Slightly radical idea, some of the small trucks that run the RE4R03A have a deeper pan with the same bolt pattern, its a bout 1" deeper that means it would hang down with no protection, but in that 1" you could fit tubes like this, the air passes through the tubes and cools.
Saw was designed for use with a standard vb and not a modded one. I had emailed ess racing about it a while ago when altari was having issues and they strongly advised to replace the modded vb with a stock one before you run into issues.
size overall ????? cooling tubes or flat plate design ???? Like everything there are coolers and then there are coooooolers I actually have the opposite problems of not enough heat in the auto in BADZX, takes for ever to hit overdrive, ( I have to cover much of my coolers face in winter in order to get it to work !!!! )..... Other members have also found the same thing when they have gone to a large cooler, search MickW's threads for more tech than you'll handle in a year !!! http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=311888 Here's a quick pic of my setup, the cooler has air drawn through it even when standing still and the flow is reversed when the car is moving.... On K1NGZ i ended up running 2 plate coolers, one in each of the Bomex's intercooler airdams, see the build up in the members section.... http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=296502 K1NGZ's setup..... A bit more info on your cooler and a few pics of the location may help in the short term... a aircon condensor fan from a VB commodore will do a very nice job of making sure its getting air through the cooler, they are a small fan that will actually fit in a ZX Kingy
Im running the SAW kit and have a PWR oil cooler running in front of my rad, and temps rarely hit over 90 - only times it has hit above this, is hammering through the clyde mountain (hairpins and 25kmh corners for about 30 or 40 km) - apart from that it sits cold as anything the whole time, regardless of line pressure..
Ambient temperatures pay a big part in cooling and Canberra has a cool climate, means for November Min 10C Max 25C, Brisbane Min 20C Max 29C. Clyde Mountains seem even cooler then Canberra, current temps Clyde 18C Canberra 27C. Also where is your temp sensor located, almost sounds like cooler return.
thats running off of the readings from the oem transmission temp sensor - presume its in the sump - but may not be - someone else inform?
I just noticed that your an NA, sorry I didn't notice that before. You will be producing less heat than a TT. Are you using some sort of Conzult software to read the trans temp ? What software is it Conzult only shows a voltage ? Interesting feed back, it could indicate a lot of the excess temperature is being produced in the torque converter in TT's but not confirmed.
Using the SAW interface itself - WIth the notebook connected you can view the temp outputs.. and i set the temp alert down lower so i can view when it actually hits and exceeds it - temp alert was set at 90, now at 95 and havn't alerted a once since i have it set at 95 - although it hasn't been driven.. Would be interesting to know whether it is much difference - I was under the impression the main difference was there was an extra clutch plate in the tt box?
Yes, ATF temp sensor is in the oil pan. Mounted to the underside of the valve body near that orange connector -
If you using the same shift maps all be it the NA diff version, which I believe is also used on TT's with an NA rear, line pressures and shifting is the same, but you could get away with lower line pressures than a TT I believe. The TT may produce a bit more heat within the box with a little more slip at higher clamping pressure, but I don't think it would be a lot or you would be hurting the box, as only a TT can. Higher stall creates more heat, the NA stall per FSM is 2450-2650 RPM and TT 2950-3200, also how much load is placed on the the torque converter, again the TT will place far more load. I am starting to think the majority of the heat is created in the torque converter.
Are you still running through the radiator as well, or only through an oil cooler? I used to run the SAW kit (and stock valve body) with only the radiator cooler and it could keep up most of the time for normal driving, and when doing track work would only need about 5mins of idling to bring the temps back down. I now have a modded valve body and tried a rear mounted oil cooler with no link through the radiator, but this does not provide enough cooling, so will be adding the radiator cooler back in.
I took out the rad cooler - figured that after 20 years of no maintenance that it was going to be a bottleneck on any cooling that happens - mine is running straight through the cooler and back to the tranny - nothing else in it..
Thanks for your help guys... My auto was awesome with just the valve body mod, seemed to run fine. Very concerned with these high temps and the cure being swapping it back to a standard valve body - more expense. Seems like fitting a fan onto the cooler (it's a big mofo in the side mount position) won't help as it hardly cools down cruising at 100kmh. PEX suggested that an auto shop may be able to mod the box so it cools more... might give them a call regarding this. Otherwise I'll be putting the original Auto computer back in. Anyone after a SAW kit? Hardly used? Dinoz / BADZX: It's running only through the sidemount MOFO PWR oil cooler...
I would be keen to see it in action before you take it out, and I could demo mine similar build to yours. I'm just near Carindale.
Wouldn't you be better off to sell your modded valve body, grab a standard one from a rooted transmission, and keep the SAW kit? Having said that, I would love to get my hands on a SAW controller at a good price
