Whats the best way to remove the 3 rusty nuts from the flange on the end of the headers to start of the exhaust ? I've been spraying them with INOX for a few days, got lucky I did manage to remove 1 nut after a over night soak just had to tighten it a little then it came loose pretty easy.. Im using a 12pt deep socket with extension & 325mm breaker bar. The other nuts are not so friendly, I think I'll go and grab myself a 6pt socket.. The 12pt is slipping a little, Im trying not to go crazy on them as I dont want to round them off. Thinking of grabbing Loctite Freeze and release.. as its a bit of a confind space to be blow torching things.. Not sure if that product is any good.
you will probably find they will snap. Try putting some heat into them it will let the crc get right in there
forget the loctite freeze Loctite freeze wont work on them - tried it on them already - zip effect - its more useful on larger items where the freeze can hit only the bolt and not the nut - not so much for these small confined bolts. WD gets in a bit more than inox as its a finer fluid I think it will come down to making a special spanner like Anti made I went and got one for $5 thats ready to cut up Misszens other half :zlove:
Yeah I was thinking if making the nut cold it will contract where heat it will expand and hopefully get it a bit more loose on the stud..... Oh okkies I have to search for the anti spanner! sounds like more fun now! hmm WD vs Inox
A couple months back I remeber seeing a thread on here about a nut-splitter tool but can't remember who or where exactly. Not sure you'd have room to use it there or how effective it would be on those rusted nuts but I imagine it would do the trick as a last resort. Try searching or maybe someone else can remember the thread.
I've thought about a nut-splitter, but theres probably little room for that especially with the nut closest to the firewall.. I think last resort is dremel to cut the nut out, but definitely want to sweet talk the nut out first without going nuts
An Anti spanner will only help if the nut is hard to get to. 6 sided spanner, breaker bar and a hammer. If that doesn't work... power drill
if you are able to get side access to the nut drill a 1/8 hole in the centre of one of the flats ( has to go into the bolt thread slightly ) then put the rp7 nozzle in the hole and squirt. May need to do it over a couple of days. Cheers Dave
Never thought of that, but I would probably like to preserve the thread on the stud hoping to reuse it. I'll put down that one as a last resort method. I will definitely put in brass replacement nuts if I ever get them off
I was thinking it may be small enough not to cause damage but then again I havent tried it before.. Ok I'll give it a go if I can fit a drill/dremel in there.
Nope. Over the years Ive had no end of trouble with Brass nuts loosening and eventually pulling the threads out. Use stainless nuts. E
You need me, a ratchet and a 13 mm socket. Lying on my side put my foot and hand on the ratchet while I held onto the cross member. Recall I had my knee well above my head in a crazy contorted position. Got the nuts off no probs tho
Just read some ppl on this forum used brass and on other forums too. I guess it also comes down to personal experience.. Is there any spray or compound that can be put on the threads to help avoid seizing when I do replace the nuts.. First product that comes to mind is lanox.. Not sure if it will evaporate with the temps, would get might hot and probably any oil will burn away..
ummm use an actual breaker bar? not talking a socket set breaker bar... im talking the 324 what ever you have... plus a 1m long piece of pipe over the end that you can get some proper leaverage with... then one person holds the spanner in place and some one on the outside of the car that can get some purchase on it try and crack it... or just get a rattle gun
the way almost every mechanical workshop will rectify this problem. heat welds the nut and stud together through oxidization. -oxy torch -WD40/wurth roast off/inox whatever heat the nut and stud until its just a very dull feint cherry red colour. quench only the STUD, with your penetrating lube of choice. try to tighten the nut. as much as you can without sheering bolt/snapping stud. allow to cool, add some more penetrating lube. come back repeat process of heating nut and stud. quench only the stud, try to loosen as much as you can, being gentle here. allow to cool. come back heat up only the NUT to below cherry red temp, quench the stud again and remove nut. you may have to stop apply more lube and heat to get fully off. if done correctly it wont break a stud or strip the threads, first two steps expand the threads in the nut and break the bond. last step is for expansion and removal
dunno where you have gone before but most workshops just snap off the bolt with a rattle gun and it either comes off or breaks off then they charge you more for drilling it out. but how do you quench the stud only when its inside a bolt and you only have access to the tip and the tip is only 12mm wide? :/
i use a copper based anti sieze on spark plugs and the likes. I don't like zinc based as it can react with aluminium causing corrosion.
yeah your right, any bodgey will do just that. Because the mechanical industry is full over high school drop outs with no brains and ability to use anything other than brute force simple, squirt a little bit of the wd40 on the stud, which protrudes, that will cool it down more than the nut. the heat will help it penetrate too. the loctite freeze spary can work here also....
