Way to go man. Was a long road but you got there. Congrats My liky wheels too. :zlove So what else is in store for the monster?
Thanks pal, Will turn it up to 24psi when I've changed over a few bits and see what number it pulls, fingers crossed for 420-430
Sounds good Andrew! As long as it is kept safe - would hate to see it go wrong. Surely your not using that boost level on the street?! I have driven a few agressive 380rwkw cars and you can never hold full boost for more that a few seconds cause your either frying the tyres or accelarating insanly fast which will quickly land you in Silverwater Prison or in your case Supermax haha. :br::br::br:
So I've been very quiet lately. Funds have been pressingly tight. But I have managed to fix up my sound install, add some custom shiny bits under the bonnet and I have some very exciting plans in store. Watch this space. I'll get pics up soon
How To: PTU harness relocate, CTS re-route. CAS reroute So a update, I've been really quiet and slack on this. Thought is make it a joint HOW TO so other people may have a easier idea. I know there are a few but sometimes diversity makes it easier. Aim: relocate PTU to another location, tuck CAS wire better and CTS and sender so NO!! More harness across front of engine. Tools: socket set Screw drivers Soldering iron PVC/electrical tape, Conduit (if wanted) New vac hose (why not refresh perished bits while in there) Solder Heat shrink Wire strippers (or strong teeth) Spare wire approximate gauge to harness strands. Ok, so start with the basics, Bonnet up, Nose panel off (in my case as PTU was going there) Front bar off Headlight out. Remove driver TB intake pipe And both passenger side pipes. Before starting, note harness tucked , but still across engine and messy PTU bundle (YUK) Undo the 4 bolts securing the PTU bracket to the timing covers, Un clip the CT sender (small plug, CTs for this article) and CT sensor (Large plug, CTS for this article) Pull harness out and away from engine Start by stripping back, un wrapping or VERY carefully cutting back the tape/conduit on the loom. Remove this all the way across to the far side where the CAS separates from the main loom until you can manipulate the individual wire strands. You will note the CTS has 2 wires. The CTs only has one. I then, separated completely the CTS and CTs wiring from the rest, cut the sensor and sender unit off with about 10cm wire. extended all 3 wires on the loom by about 20cm, pulled tight then wrapped them all together leaving 5cm free each end. The CAS wiring I also isolated, tucked it down under the air conditioning pipe work, accordion and back up attaching to the CAS , nice and stealthy. The CTS and CTs bundle I fed up underneath the plenum on a runner, fed it alongside coil pack wiring then down underneath the throttle cover, out the bottom, then soldering the corresponding wires back onto the sensor and sender unit , final result seen in pictures. Finished The PTU harness, I fed this down, underneath a wiring harness port beneath the headlight, routed it along directly underneath the headlight then out a intake hole to the nose panel section . Now! Luckily in my favor , my SELIN unit had a bracket the EXACT size for my PTU bracket to bolt up to so I simply modified it slightly. Before (Note you can see the Selin bracket bottom right section of nose panel area. After Then I just proceeded to wrap and insulate a few areas I thought slightly exposed . Re assembled everything and BAM !! She started (thank god haha) Finished result is very neat, I'll put up a final picture tomorrow Hope this helps someone one day slightly, Procky!
More news!! So playing around again, seems as soon as car show season ends I get stuck into the car. Or maybe it's because zedfest is around the corner. Either way, to business. I added my strut tower covers finally, polished them up. I then adressed some small detail that had been bothering me but with the adition of my new ZSPEC "Z cut" coil pack rackets supplied by RGS (our own rob260), I felt now was a good time to do it. Finished product. Factory: Procky spec: Zspec: While I was in the area the driver side plenum needed cleaning up. The VCT , 02 sensor connectors were clustered here: I moved them all after shortening them to here: While doing that I isolated the ignition loom , fixed a potential break point and re- routed "tucking" it away. See here. While I was playing, I also thought I'd update my mascot. Enjoy. P.S. Keep your eyes peeled for very soon future updates
Rainy day So my plans got massively detoured by a big rain front coming over the Eastern Coast and goulburn. Sooo Door pods. Sanded them back. Moulded them a little more, then cut and sanded it out to mount my hifonics 110rms 6.5" componants. Got some super sweet black/charcoal leather to cover them in that matches (nearly) the top parts of my door (factory trim) Next up came some interior rewiring, cutting and moulding. Removed the center console. Took a dremal to the back of it to remove a glued on super cheap (Nissan din slot) that some previous owner of this center console thought was a good look... With it removed. I ground down smoothly the surround on the ECU talk , then came out my friend araldite . After 6 hrs I placed it back into the car. It can adhere properly over the next 20hrs it sits in the shed. Achieved a very nice factory looking fitment! Even HIdes well behid my 7" DVD head unit so I don't need to look at it all the time. Also. Fitted some nice Z floor matts Mission accomplished.
Actually did a switch-aroo for a S2 Modified this one. I'll give it a quick lick of acetone to remove glue traces on the inside area. But otherwise it's close to the stock console colour , Warnings all preset too
John , if it didn't Facebook would have told you by now ;p All still runs fine . The next few bits this week will be the tester but ;p Watch this spot. Thanks graham just ignore the plenum rub and mirror rub
Brakes upgrade So, time to upgrade some stopping power 5years ago one of first things I did was the 324mm front brake upgrade with dogbone adaptors from UAS. Thought I'd pay some attention so jumped onto some new DBA4000 t3, kangaroo paw rotors. And some schmick brembo front and rears. I dressed them all up and have them a lick of paint Rotors Finally got around to fitting them. Trimmed and pulled back the dust shield a bit, and no issues. Decided on a black gold look to match my car/engine bay theme Physical difference Rear pad difference Installed!! Two nipples !! Bleeding was a little more fun Bled them all up and can say that I feel the brakes perform better This is without a track/race pad being used also. But there is *no squeel *no creaking noise on application And also feels as though it brakes in te same manor but with less force applied . Filled up with a Castrol dot4
Ganador installation 101 Copied from the tech section for back up and personal use. Long overdue update. I have ALOT to fill in on. Will get to it soon Some of us over the years, or recently have purchased a set of ganador Mirrors for our zeds. These are not to everyone's design taste but the subtle lines and aerodynamic moulding stand out and can actually give a slight highlight to the side lines of a zeds fender/roof arch join. Items needed Screwdriver Soldering iron 3mm wire 6.2male and female spade connectors Wire stripper/teeth/knife You will need the door card off for this. But, how many of us have removed factory, bolted up ganador, only to discover the connectors are completely different, and the wires. The ganador only has 3 BLACK (left) BLUE (up) BROWN (right and down) The factory has 7 2xBLACK (heated mirror) 1xYELLOW (left) 1xBLUE (up) 1xPURPLE (right and down) 1xORANGE OR RED 1xPINK Now, these colours could be open for change perhaps on later year models, but where it gets confusing is the 7colours on the factory look are completely different to the 7 on the mirrors harness See here You'll need to check before disconnecting and take a picture or write it down In my case Light blue=blue Blue black=yellow Dark blue=purple So, from above, now you know the harness colours that correspond to the mirror function Attach Blue/black(yellow) factory>>>black ganador Dark blue(purple) factory>>>blue ganador Light blue(blue) factory>>>blue ganador This should function then as per factory directions via center console mirror adjustment. End result, poor picture, looking sexy however
I just realised on my other post The dark blue/purple is meant to be to BROWN ganador wire Sorry for confusion
track prep.. So with a stint at Wakefield creeping up, And the snowy mountains 1000, (1000m drag race) I started looking at the cars shortcomings when it came down to wind resistance and drag. Not being an expert I got up to some reading, dug through a book or two, talked to some people, made some calls, chatting to BB and JP. After some playing around, a nice, effective splitter/undertray is set up and mounted, (will re-create out of a more perminant, lightweight material later on) Also in the works is a rather one of rear diffuser, currently being designed out of cardboard So I can then use some metal of sorts or alloy I pick up later one this month Anyway ill let some pictures talk. First two pics below were bracing after a trial fitment to figure dimensions and area. Attached to the splitter with 9xm6 bolts, stud up from the bottom, nuts and washers applied to the other side. Shows nicely the area of the front that is now sealed off (factory undertray long since destroyed) Also as can be seen in a previous post, some ganador mirrors. As to their actual aerodynamic upgrade over factory, I cant claim any with fact but they look the part lastly, mounting the front splitter securely, adding some APR support rods for a little extra piece of mind. Comfortably takes me standing on it at the front whilst holding my husky (42+72kg) See piccies. Underside of the splitter, again shows how far back it goes, also the 2 bolts ill have to grind/cut 5mm off for the support rods to reduce hang down and possible obstruction
fantastic design hey you will need to make those supporting rods longer (as I did) the splitter is pointing at slight upwards angle .(I can see from your pics) also have to put a rubber strip /spacers inbetween the where the bar meets the splitter to get the right angle . haven't had a chance to finish mine but will soon. .
