Noticing a bit of shudder in the front brake rotors, part recommendations?=

Do you have a set of calipers you can put on the discs to measure thickness? Or how old are the rotors? 26mm discs usually have 4mm of life. Skimming costs about 1mm. Anything below 24mm might not be worth skimming.

 

When someone else upgrades to those new rotors, they can sell you their oems.
Cheapest option.

 

I'm trying to do a front disk job at the moment, as cheap and as good as I can.

Here is what I am looking at from SuperCheap:

To clean new rotors of protective oil coating: Bendix Brake/Parts Cleaner and Degreaser - 400g $10.99 (2 for one special ends 28/03/14)
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/on...aner-and-Degreaser-400g.aspx?pid=288356#Combo

To be applied between pad and shims as per page BR-12 in manual: Bendix Synthetic Disc Brake Lube 6g - BBL1 $2.19 x2 $4.38
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/on...Disc-Brake-Lube-6g-BBL1.aspx?pid=323995#Cross

For some reason DBA rotors have jumped in price on their website, called today and reckon they will be back down mid next week. DBA Disk Rotor x2 SPO421043 $134

I thought these were pretty cheap for for what are apparently OEM quality. Hydraulic Hose - Front (PBR) SPO1388693 $22.48 x2 $44.96

Penrite Dot 4 Brake Fluid (have already)

Bendix General CT Pads (have already but $77.98 from SC)

Brake rotor wear limits per page BR-15 in manual:

TT Standard 30mm Minimum 28mm
NA Standard 26mm Minimum 24mm
(NA JDM till 10/94 after that TT spec according to FAST)

I got pricing for walk in rotor machining at about $50 a pair, I thought about the petrol and time versus new rotors and the potability of them coming in under spec and thought that new ones were a reasonable option. As long as SuperCheap drop the price next week.

 

I usually use CRC BrakeKleen. What's the Bendix stuff like? Might have to try it for this price.

Better Brakes down in Parramatta do disk machining, $20 per rotor, had a few sets done by them and no problems, nice and straight. Just measure your thickness first, if you've got at least 1mm to min thickness getting them machined is a good cheap option.

 

I dunno never used it before but I think Bendix is good quality and the price is right.

Yeah my rotor's are a mess, discolored, wobbly scalloped, huge wear channel towards outer edge easily 1mm deep on each side, they are shot.

 

Sorry but I call rubbish on this lol. In fact, most of the idiots running around with these 'on car' disc machiners wouldn't know what runout is if you shoved it down their throat. First hand experience.

Yes if you have runout in your hubs a rotor with no runout will show runout once fitted. For most oem brake applications the tolerance will allow for this and won't be a problem. For more critical race applications you simply index the rotors until you find the lowest point of runout. I've actually used brass shims in the past on my racecars to get my rotors to almost 0 runout. Takes a bit of time but provides less pad knockoff.

 

haha yeah if they're that bad def bin em!

 

Well off ya go and find us the link please.

I read a lot of online stuff and I think the biggest problem in machining rotors in a normal off car setup is how good the operator is, is the rotor being mounted properly, IE centrally and "flat" does the equipment have grit on the mount face causing run-out etc, do they do it too quickly getting a unsuitable finish to the disk face causing bed in problems and scalloping in turn bs bs etc etc.

So given the small price for piece of mind getting new rotors seemed like the way to go (especially since mine will probably machine under spec) and not giving a passion fingered mechanic a chance to get involved.

 

Sure, if you take it to a Nissan dealer that has a proper on car lathe, not one of these portable jobbies that are doing the rounds. And if the hub is so bad that it's causing this problem, they will recommend replacing the hub, which is the correct thing to do.

If you're going to get it done on car, insist that they put a dial gauge on the rotor before and after machining. Take a photo for evidence. Make sure the rotor is properly torqued to the hub and be wary of how the rotor is turned when measuring the runout. And when it ends up twice as bad insist they buy you a new set lol!

Also I very much doubt any dealers these days would machine rotors period. With the cost of replacement rotors so cheap it's just not worth the hassle. So I doubt you would find anyone with a quality on car lathe anywhere in Aus.

 

Definitely grab these ones(they're "Dimpled & GOOVED").
By the way, these are NOT 'Cross-drilled' rotors.:zlove:

 

Like this guy who just upgraded, see link you just need his disc to trouble shoot/fix your shudder. Not sure if is local to you. You just want his disc.
http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=329340

 

Bit of a Shudder Ay?

sounds to me like its time for a Full Rebuild!

 

Probably want to check your tension rod bushes while your at it. Once those things start to leak the steering shake can get pretty bad.

 

Like several other owners, I have been running 324mm DBA 'Kangaroo Paw' front rotors(with stock TT calipers)for several years, without any downside(except the need to fit Caliper Spacers to compensate for the larger dia. rotors).:zlove:

 

So what was wasgood's final solution?

I recently had to change wheels because I was pulled over by cops and questioned about mods. They said they would recheck my car.

I was running 25mm spacers all round. Went to a tyres place, bought wheels that didn't need spacers. They fitted them.
Drove home and wondered if the steering wheel was a little bit off center. Next day driving around the neighborhood, I confirmed my steering wheel was a bit off centre. That could be from the slightly different outside diameter of new tyres on different wheels.
I also experienced brake shudder. Changed pads and no change after a few days.

Just had a wheel alignment. (Unfortunately they didn't clamp the steering wheel in the precise position before adjusting the wheels, annoying)
The car doesn't have that brake shudder anymore.

So happy about that