Lol! Love it.... Blunt is always best.. Your probably right on all accounts apart from the stock ecu. I have a stock and used it a few times.. got less phowa from it and it hardly even wanted to boost which is why I use the ever so slightly moded ecu. Even with either ecu economy isnt too bad and no smoke with either (apart from one puff about a week ago which was a random occurance) Im not rushing into anything though.. sitting on my options atm. But knowing compression is fairly even I have a lot more options
You know what the real problem waS. It had a major drain of power when it got over 4000rpm. it was like it couldnt throw any more fuel or air or magic power dust into the engine. Maybe that should be looked at as the main symptom? Does that sound familiar to anyone? Poor fuel pressure or bad aac maybe?
NONE of those air valve will have ANY affect on engine performance. lets be clear on that! All those gizmos do is allow a little air to bypass the throttle bodies to trim idle speed. THATS IT. So what was a WBo2 showing when you fed it the jandal? Clagged cats or a buggered AFM could cause that along with plenty of other things. A good WBo2 stuck up its bum is your friend here!!!!! E
Ok. Lets go from there then. Im going to need a few things to get me started.. Can anyone supply me a wideband o2 sensor ill need a non ****ed plenum with no threaded or broken holes And once I get it going again I need someone to recommend me a shop who can completely go over everything from tuning an ecu to rebuilding the gearbox. Clearly I cant do this shit myself.. if anyone has a near new cas I might grab that also. Id also appreciate a really good diagram for how to hook up these vac lines.. so many are just capped off and running nowhere I dont even know where to start >:/
Clogged cats also cause spark plug fouling... And fouled plugs are going to **** with my powah. Hmmm!
No, you misunderstand me. Take it to a shop as is, tell them the symptoms/history and tell them to fix it then walk away. The difference is that they do the diagnosis.
I did figure that is what you meant, and really the most logical thing to do. This Z is a little challange for me though, I've really wanted to figure out how to do it all myself, and I think I'm starting to make some good ground. the list of things that have been wrong has built up since the TT swap (nothing against WildZX, turns out he did source a half decent block) but thinking though everything, here is my idea of what's gone wrong: the VG30DETT wildzx sourced was actually a pretty decent block for $600. but, the timing belt was put on a tooth out, and I don't have to explain what this meant for how bad the engine ran. initially the problem was thought to be injectors, but after servicing 2 sets of injectors, it was ruled out. and it wasnt until the car basically limped its way to Twin Terror that he found out about the timing belt problem. for probably 2 months, the Z was started (probably thrashed a bit by Wild and LIco because they thought it was the injectors and were trying to as they say 'unblock them', and then I was starting it and even had to drive it in its terrible state to a new house when I moved. those 2 months of starting and even driving with everything out that much must have done some damage to the plugs. so i was never going to get a great spark with that set. (correct me if i'm wrong) fast forward half a year, and I've been running a chipped ecu which probably threw more fuel into the chamber than it needed, so with plugs that were probably already screwed, I was causing more damage by over fueling. this would probably explain why the power has gradually gone from, 'Not Bad' to 'Meh' in the last 6 months. its never been great, but it started running worse a day before I cracked the shits and wripped the plenum off. thats when i found another broken vac hose on the drivers side which was plugged (and now wasn't), explains why it started sounding like a lawn mower maybe? factor all that in, plus the fact that the passenger side turbo line to the MBC was about 2 meters long, and the drivers side is about 800mm long (not quite even stevens), i'm only coming in from one of the intakes to the MBC and i think i had the MBC hooked up the wrong way around. the whole vac setup was an abortion of a job. not sure if the passenger side hose coming from the back of the intercooler was leaking because it was only just holding on, and came loose when I wiggled the piping running down the side of the radiator (without having to unscrew the hose clamp even) SOOOOO.... in the last week, I've gone over the entire front end and made sure all hoses are either in airtight condition and/or clamped on tight. and I've bought about 20 meters of various sized vac hoses to redo the whole engine bay maybe bypassing a few things that arent needed so the setup is basically, 2 even hoses coming in from the throttle bodies, to a MBC which has 2 EVEN hoses coming in from the wastegates which will sit in the centre of the plenum. I also have a new plenum coming which shoudl be in better condition than mine. because mine had a few bolt holes broken so I was never going to get a great seal. not only this.... But.. there's more.... after I already started my order with Z1 motorsports, and emailed them about 12 times already with parts... I found out that the oil sitting at the back of the engine was because the valve cover seals were leaking all over the place... (once again, I don't care about the past.. don't care who/what happened) but, it turns out the valve covers were put on with some red gasket glue which by no means is oil resistant. So, I've had oil leaking out from the valves which even had the rubber seals soaked in oil because the red gasket crap stopped the rubber seal from sealing the oil in the valve cover. so i've taken it from the block. have a massive order coming from Z1, starting with a valve cover seal kit and all the plenum/ egr balance tube seals etc, new aac and aicv (or whatever they are called) hoses since mine broke just before I took them off, new iridium spark plugs (stock tt gapped .044) with new coil pack connectors to make sure they don't skip around since I've noticed it can stutter a bit if the ride gets a bit rough. i've also taken the liberty of sanding back and respraying the engine bay in satin black while there is less in the way. which can be seen Heeaaaa... I've also bought 2 new gauges, a EVO style water gauge and an evo style oil pressure gauge, and I've also got myself a fuel pressure regulator/gauge so i can keep and eye on whether my pump is doing its thing or not.... one last thing..... I purchased a set of Greddy RS BOV's, and i'm planning on running them open and not plumb backed... so if someone could tell me what spring rate they are running that works for them with non crazy boost then I'd appreciate some advice on setting them up... and secondly,,, it would be a huge help to know just what kind of fuel pressure I should be getting (or setting the regulator to)? its been a busy week, now I am just waiting for all my orders to start arriving so i can put it all together :zlove: Edit: I forgot to mention, my fuse box now sits snuggly next to the passenger side headlight under the nose panel... turns out a write up was right, and there is just enough engine loom to squeeze it under the headlight and sit it in front of the recirc valve... had to make a break in the vac backet that houses a vac line tubing bolt so I could squeeze the loom under the headlight, but I think the result excuses the necessary brutality and Z mutilation...
Fuel pressure should be set around 40psi at idle. And unless you're going to remove the AFM and run a MAP sensor, you should not be running BOV's vented to atmo. Best option is the factory recircs with the BDE goose honk kit.
ive read about the side effects/ consequences of using bov's, I thought id give it a go though. they should be fine if I use them as recirc valves though and connect them back into the intake? The bov's I bought have the option to be setup as plumb backed bov's.
Sweet. Next question: Does an aftermarket fpr need to connect in the same location or can I run a hose from the filter to the fpr then hook it into the piping on the plenum? this would mean removal of the old oem fpr and a a longer piece of hose used where the factory fpr used to be. Is that doable?
You can replace the old fpr but the new fpr needs to be the last component before the fuel return to the tank. The hose from the filter goes to the fuel rails, then fuel rails to the FPR.
Really. I only just started to look in to this. I was working under the opposite assumption that it had to be the fpr had to be the last thing before the fuel rail.. Ill see if I can suss out a few good diagrams somewhere.
Honest advice just leave the thing alone. Put as many stock components back in as you can (including the FPR) and get someone to go over it. Every time you or somebody else has a fiddle with something you introduce another variable... If it were my car or my job I would do the following Refit the stock recirc valves Fit a stock ECU Refit the stock FPR Then get somebody who knows their way around the car to check every connection, do a boost leak test, check your ECU for any sensor errors, and check your timing. If needs be take it to a competent workshop and ask them to do this for you. Improving performance is not hard once you have a good baseline to work from. From what you've written you sound like you have a basket case on your hands due to the half finished or ill-planned jobs that have already been done on the car.
Thats the plan Rob, Ive doubled up on a few gaskets because they are way cheaper in the states. . So im putting it together stock and wont put the greddys on just yet. the fpr I want in so I can see what pressure the fuel is going through at. Stock ecu is going in. Im not using the fake tomei ecu.. if I end up getting a proper tune that ecu will be rechipped with what I need. Ive just planned ahead so when it is running right I can start introducing a few things. Saved on bulk shipping etc. Timing etc the easy part.. main thing I want to do is make sure I gave a good plenum seal and re run all the vac lines properly...
Don't let this come across as ****ish but I reccomend you purchase some books to study. Books are way better than the Internet. Read up on EFI turbo tuning. Different fuel delivery methods etc. it will explain engine timing and all sorts of good stuff. Seems to me your flying blind and we all start somewhere. It will help you I promise
I appreciate it.. I know im just trying to sort out some badic stuff still here. I have a fair idea whats wrong with it so far. So ill do what I know definately is the easy stuff.. Let me throw the engine itself back together properly. Set up the vac lines so even I know everything is how it should be then ill have a better chance of trouble shooting anything else in about 2 weeks when I start her up again. At least then ill have a much tidier car with less mess for any shop to start looking at it properly.. Basics first. Ill snap another pic when its all back together. Even if its still got some issues im hoping to have at least some nice engine bay porn... The satin black looks mad! And really brings out the colour of the brickyard red when you see them next to each other.. ill try and get a good pic so you can see what I mean... Edit: Not technical,, but Brickyard red & Satin Black = a match made in heaven <3
I disagree He needs to start with the FSM. Half if not all the issues and questions he's asked here are answered in the FSM. Read it, re read it, understand it, print out the relevant pages and go to work.
to continue... Ok. So its all back together. 2 problems now exist. 1. when I turn the ign to on: 4/5 times I hear a loud click come from the bay and the electricals all drop out if I try to start the engine. Car doesnt have power again until I disconnect and reconnect the battery 2. Possibly the original problem from 6 weeks ago. No2 cylinder not working Swapped coilpacks and its not the coilpack im getting a reading from the injector connector when the car isnt on even though no other connectors havr readings. The injector itself seems to have thr same resistance as other injectors. I think its a spark issue since the plug I pulled out looked wet. As of last night all cylinders have brand new plugs. the only thing I can think that didnt go back the same was: On the harness there was 2 black wires connected together then split into 4 wires these 4 wires went 1 to each of the 02, vct, egr and wastegate connectors Since I dont have egr or wastegates hooked up I used the 2 primary wires and sent them to the 02 and the vct. but I didnt have them joined together as they were originally. I figured they were ground wires? Regardless. When the car does start it runs fine apart from no.2 So I dont think that culling the egr and wastegate connectors should be causing the electrical problem since the electricals are no different to as if the connectors for the egr and wastegate were still there but not connected. The battery seems to have a weaker spark when attaching the terminals. So im not sure if it might be a grounding issue because of the paint where the negative terminal bolts into the firewall? Or something is shorting? All coilpacks should be wired correctly though. Waynoz
