You shouldn't have changed the offset +38 is perfect on the zed for a flush look, now it's a +46 which would rub on the inner guard
wouldnt mind a $1 for every time I've heard that My purple ZX arrived from Japan with +45's the next set of rims I bought were +46 and fitted like a glove. the following 2 sets I bought were +38 & + 35 respectivly and here's the result ! http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=293893 Both these two sets were lathed back to increase the offsets to around the +45 - +48 mark, in doing so I can now run as large as a 295x45x17 tire.....WITHOUT rubbing My sons ZX (K1NGZ) is using the Euro/concept rims I dont want anymore, so they have allready been altered to suit my car...... Strangely they fit up underneath his car exceptionaly well even tho his WMS - WMS is differant to that of the purple car...... if you've read the above linked thread you'll see the differeance I wouldnt have allowed these rims to go on the car if for an instant I thought they would rub or in anyway be an issue mechanically or via Mr Plod... sadly the facts are that they fit BETTER than the +38's the car is pictured sitting on during this build I'm not the only forum member that runs these offsets, supprisingly enough there's quite a few of us and we often have a good chuckle at the constant +38 rulz :rofl: Kingy
I know you had offset problems with purple zed, but if your sons car has no problems with the Hub offset or WMS then a +38 should fit fine, will be tight fit though.
Believe what kingy's saying is he modified the wheels to fit his car but then his son has pinched the wheels for his, hence already modified.
NIIICE kingy your son is one lucky son of a bi... oh hangon once its all finished you two will have to pop into warrni and we'll cut a few FULLY SIK laps... show the falcodore boys what a real automobile looks like... just make sure you leave a few imperfections. I dont want to be shown up in my home town Cheers, Jordan
Yeah its been awhile......... and the car STILL isnt finished.... How dare work interfere with my life :bash: The wheels are powdercoated, and tires are fitted ready for use, nice mufflers, and its fully blocked back ready for the color...... and the paint is here .... just too cold to spray now so I thought I'd do a few other improvements whilst I was there..... Under body tray for the front clip ... 2mm alloy step 1...... the actual tray after cutting step 2 ..... sides now cut and shaped & fitted .... By badzx at 2010-07-23 This when fitted should do 3 main things..... 1/ prevent air loss under the car via the front clip, it will also keep a 'pressurised' area on the face of the radiator when driving. 2/ support the front clip, sharing the load not only vertically but horoziontaly aswell 3/ prevent hot air from the trans and engine coolers from being drawn through the radiator now its made...... lets fit it
Not bad, looks just like mine With your oil cooler is that a full flow one or does it just use the standard TT filter tree and bypass?
Couple of extra shots showing some detail: The rear edge is bolted up to the radiator support panel cross member ( using existing threadded holes), and the side plates are bolted through the supports for the coolers.... Actual clearance around the trans cooler
Last couple of the detailed shots..... from the 'wheels perspective' the clip/tray contact patch finished product..... front clip mounted with coolers & tray setup. Although it doesnt seem like a great deal... this setup took a couple of days to get right, yeah it all fitted "okish" initally but it wasnt a perfect fit, I spent several hours trimming and re-fitting all the relevant pieces so that each section was its own identity yet incorperated the adjacent section..... the front clip is actually showing wear signs from all the removal/replacement its done during this process The clip now slips into place without any force at all being applied to it..... in the above pic there are only 2 bolts holding the clip in place..... such a good fit in the end
lines are 14mm (internaly measured) hydrolic hose and fittings, had that made up at the local hose joint. No pressure issues as yet..... other than the guage that goes for a wander every now and then. Scared the bejesus out of me every time I'd glance down at the guage and its showing zip/zero/ not even a pulse..... hit a bump in the road and its up over half way... I'm fully past the nissan oil pressure thingy on the dash issue...waste of space :rofl:
looking great mate. why didnt you complete the air dam fully to the condensor ?? i think it was mattz that did a full air dam and it looked pretty nice.
As you can see in this pic..... It is sealed off reasonably well. It has excelent sealing along the radiator support crossmember and is good from the chassisrails back to the condensor. I have deliberately cut small areas out for further mods that are yet to happen, mainly for rubber hoses etc. In the above pic for example..... the cutout at 11 O'clock from the sideplate mounting bolt is for a hose going to the cooler, a second cutout is not visiable in the pic but is basically directly behind the bottom of the aircon drier, again this is for that hose from the cooler as seen below on the other sides pic... At this stage I'm toying with brake ducting .... as to which point I take the air from is still undecided..... Although the brake ducting IS NOT high on the list of "to do's" I have to make the decision now as to what point I can take it from in the future should it be required.... not wasting my time doing a trick paint job only to find in a years time that I have to cut the front clip to add ducting for the brakes :bash: Option 1/ easy.... cut the alloy ducting side plates and simply run it from the radiatiors airspace Option 2/ spend hours modifying the airvents on the side of the front clip (additional glass work) then have the problem of placing the actual feed tubes to the brake disks. (NB: front clip pic is back on page 1 and shows the vent nearest the wheel that "could" be used) pro/con: using the alloy side plates is simple and easy, it could be fitted in under an hour, be a stronger fixing point, not needing the ducting to be removed prior the clip removal, ..... reduces the air volume available for the radiator Using the front clips pre moulded vents is far more time consuming, they are an odd shape (triangular), very close to the actual tire so they'd be visiable via the guard/tire gap and could be prone to damage due to proximity, double the length of hose ducting to the caliper would be required thus slowing down the airflow through the additional bends etc, does not detract the air availibility for the radiator.... worst issue is the fact that the brake ducting may not be needed at all.... = hours of work for nothing the decision will come in the next week or 2.... I have other glass work on the front clip to do before its ready for color, this includes glass stiffners and posiable a change to the numberplate area..... as always ........ more to come Kingy
ahh great, sounds good. i will be doing this air dam when i get to that area. i will just make the brake ducts come in that air dam area, its not going to reduce the air going to the radiator by much at all that will make stuff all diff to the radiators cooling.
Nice write up Kingy... I've copy pasted the body work bits into a doc to keep for when it's my turn. Thanks mate!
