I have a ZX ..... the missus has a ZX .... number one son WANTS a ZX So here's a story from go to whoa After a couple of months of constant searching on the web and this forum we found a car that was suitable..... well affordable is probably a better description ! Accident damage wasnt too bad Year 1989: Body (2+0): Colour: Red Engine (NA): Transmission (AT): Interior (Cloth): Odometer: 180000 Price:$ ....... read the thread...... & it came with some excelent goodies allready attatched....... a type 2 PTU 1 peice tail shaft installed front shocks put in 18mths ago new front brakes 6 months ago. installed a IACV Hose Kit, PCV Complete Hose Set 2 yrs ago replaced heat sensor plug all spark plugs are viridian and a spare set of new nissan (non viridian) a new set of exhaust headers also had all the fuel injector connectors replaced as the old ones were brittle. not forgetting the stainless steel brakelines the COBRA seats etc etc etc etc BARGIN The for sale thread..... http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=284018 :zlove: Within 24hours of picking it up we had much of the damage fixed, only a couple of minor problems still existed but we were able to drive it for the first time the tripplets Taken about 2 days after purchase...... sporting my old RAYS wheels which somehow my son 'found' And so the shopping list began......... there was this ....... from here..... http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=284618 One of these which came from Tektrader who got it from...... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Niss...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item35a460c80f but it didnt suit his racecar, so now it has a new home. 2 of these which came from here....... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NEW-ALUMINUM...ZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item56382f3d60 One is for the auto transmission, the other for the engine oil They'll sit sweetly behind that Bomex front clip and for all intensive purposes it will look like a pair of intercoolers........ and then there's the rest of the Bomex kit....... http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=291409 which has finally arrived Gonzo spplied us with ........ & a rear brazillin hatch skin... So the shopping cart is full, my shed is cleaned out, the red zed is in & up on stands...... let the madness begin :bash: So what are my aims... where an I up to .... you ask...... To make a streetable ride for a Pplater's first car, one he'll be proud to drive and look a million dollars for a lot less :zlove: As of right this minute, the car is up on stands, the auto cooler has been attatched and is working a treat,.... yesterday I attatched the engine cooler to the car but have not as yet added the lines or sandwhich addaptor plate but I have made the alloy air ducts to suit the coolers so they line up perfectly with the front clip. The front clip has also been fixed and now lines up perfectly with the front guards and the damaged passengers guard has been replaced thanks to badxtc ( Alex), this too is also in primer and ready for the skirts to be fitted & full respray...... I've taken quite a few pics of what I've done so far, now all I need is a photo hosting site to upload them onto. This thread hopefully will have ALL the details of all the work we carry out on the K1NGZ step by step..... my plan at the moment is to have the car in full primer within the next 3 weeks...... big task.... big ask..... possiable ???? Passengers door damage question....... Whilst the door itself is in "ok" condition it does have some minor dents and scrapes it got in the inital accident...... do I ..... A/ repair the damage..... about a days work of bogging etc B/ replace the door completely...... I have in the loft, a spare left hand door thats dead straight and its red But I think its from a 2+2 not a 2seater..... interchangeable ? can the door be used if I swap out the glass or is there that much differance Kingy
.... good work, kingy .. and a top buy.... i reckon that i recognise the black "gonzo" nose panel/eyelids pic .....
I think the doors are different You mentioned the car comes with almost new front brakes, but the pic showing the damage is only showing half of a caliper?
Certainly the glass is different; I believe below the belt line the skins etc are the same. The profile at the top of the door is different, so the B pillar part of the door is not likely to work on both. Not sure about the closing hardware between the door and the B pillar itself.
the broken caliper is on the rear of the car, look at the camber control arm thats the give away, for me anyway.....must have been a big hit to break the brake caliper though, was the subframe bent?
hey mate i got a left door laying around at my place you can have it for 100 bucks if you want still has interior and exterior door handle on it just no trim if so give me a text on 0404899799 -it is a 2 seater and is aztec red has glass intact aswell - also have the right door and rear hatch in same colour
also have most standard suspension parts for the rear adjustable front castor arms also have lowered king springs on kyb excel-g shocks and a few other items if your interested let me know
The caliper wasnt broken. The 'then owner' had removed it in that manner for some unkown reason....... Yeah had me worried when I was buying it "sight unseen" and with only half a caliper Supprisingly enough it only required the obvious broken arms replaced, the strut itself ( bent shock & leaking) and bottom wishbone. The subframe itself wasnt damaged at all, not even the arm mounts were damaged which I fully expected atleast.... The damage to the wheels was also minimal, obviously the rear passengers one got some scrapes but again nothing that couldnt be fixed had I of chosen to retain the stocky rims...... the main damage to the rear P/S wheel came from the previous owner driving it home from the accident site, it rubbed hard on the muffler ( as seen in the pic ) and distroyed what was a reasonable rear tire....... no great loss.... the others all fried well on the BADZX :rofl: What I couldnt understand at the time was the lack of interest in the car from other members...... It seemed like such a bargin yet no-one was showing the slightest interest in it except me, it was this fact that sort of stalled me on the purchase somewhat initally but after I'd decided it was only a couple of grand and I could wreck it out and turn a few bucks if the damage was far worse, I'd still be ok with it all. We'd allowed a grand to put it back on the road with the suspension damage fixed properly and a further $500 for the body work...... so far we havent incured costs anywhere near that...... everything has been done on the supercheap scale, buying when we can and haggling like hell ...... Which reminds me ....A special thanks to one member for posting down one part totally free of any charges, (you know who you are ), I owe you a few beers and we WILL have them one day Deeds like this are what makes this forum such an amazing place to be. Kingy
Will you deliver ......... :rofl: I'd grab it in a heartbeat.... but the freight will be more than the door tho Just had 2 front guards for a Charger brought down from QLD..... $555 dolllars thank you very much, have a nice xmas
First job...... fit the front clip..... note the gery tape folded back at the top of the pic, I used this to prevent to many sanding marks going onto the guard. Once I was happy with the fit it was primed Final fit.... Nice join
Auto cooler pics...... some nice stainless steel brackets.... & the start of the ducting slight trim around the placky bumper for the hose test fitting of the front clip OH YEAH......
I used 2mm alloy plate for the ducting.... tollerances were tight to say the least. The end result is that the clip actually "slots" into the ducting = zero gaps the construction of the alloy ducts
front ducting completed..... It may not seem like a triumph as such, but these 2 ducts took me a full afternoon to get right, the fit is absolutely awsome as a result
closeups of that "tight fit" and from behind..... I've left a gap (intentionally) down either side of the coolers for some air to pass by the coolers ends, hopefully road debris (leaves etc) will also pass through this gap and it will make it a simpler task when it comes to washing the car aswell..... its my theory and I'm sticking with it
Looking good kingy Any tips for lining up fibreglass front bumpers? Mine needs some love on the drivers side, and I've never done anything like that before
yeah...... dont be frightened by it all I started off by fitting the clip so it sat naturally on the car regardless of how much over/under hang there was..... the clip has to sit basicly where it wants to because if you start "pushing it around" it will ALWAYS want to return to its original out of mould shape. If you push it... and then the bar comes off, its a bytch to realign again, so you push it a tad harder and ........ that cracking fibreglass sound will tell you you just found some more work to do Once I had it in place then I masked up the paintwork that was going to suffer from bog / coarse sanding / fine sanding, I use the plastic tape as its more flexiable for "rounded cars" ( replace the tape occasionally..... it gets knocked around heaps !! ) Even 5~6 layers of tape initally wont hurt then as the fit gets closer run that number down to 2~3 layers untill you have the fit your after.... a final sand with 180 without any tape brings it into perfection. On the front of the actual guards I also run some tape where the clip and guards meet.... so its actually sandwhiched inbetween the two. I've tried other products and I'm sure the experts will argue over various products like fibrefill etc, but good old fashion bog seems to work the best fro me atleast..... its easy to work with doesnt make a huge mess doesnt stick to the tape quick drying time ease of shaping ease of additional layering Once the bar is on and the tape applied I'd hit the areas where the fit is off with my sander polisher running a 36grit disk ( a long board will work just as well ) Once its roughed up and the highs cut back...... bog it sand it back with a long board using 36grit paper re-bog it as required ( may take 3/4 loads of bog & sanding to get it close ) Once its close loose the long board and go for a hand held sanding block ($3 at supacheap) and change down to a 180grit paper..... re-bog and start the final stages of fill / fitting. its just more sanding and bogging...... with less bog each time Dont be frightened to spread the bog further than you think it needs to go, you have to "blend" the bog to the clips shape anyway. The front guards CANT BE CHANGED so its the clip that gets ALL the bog work The bomex clip ( & yes in hind sight I should have taken more pics of the fitting process ) took me a saturday to do it from start to happy with the fit... primed it the following day. TIPS: your eyes are a great asset.... but your fingers/hands will tell you far more, they "feel" the bumps and hollows better then you'll see them use long strokes when sanding..... short strokes leave flat spots Machine sanders .... great and fast and for experts..... hand sanding is for us beginners. The machine will cut far more away than you expect, then you have to re-bog it... then you cat it away too fast again.... so you re-bog it AGAIN....vicious circle.... lots of bog dust on the floor. When I first started bogging I did a door on a patrol...... 4lits of bog later I realised 3 lits of it were on the floor as dust.... put the machine sander away and havent had a problem since Dont "spot" the bog... IE: you have a small hollow so you add just enough to fill it..... WRONG what you'll end up with is a soccer ball effect.... yeah its round.... and it has heaps of little flat sides..... not good on a car.... great on a soccer ball add more than you need and spread it well past the hollow EG: if the hollow was say 2inches in diameter, I'd smear the bog atleast 3inches either side of the hollows outer edge. This gives you a better chance of that "blending process" and allows you to "shape" it in with the overall body lines..... again LONG STROKES works just ask the wife :rofl: Kingy
