There's always a voltage drop when you crank- turning over that starter motor sucks a lot of juice- How much voltage are you dropping?
Digging this previous thread of mine. After a "generic" auto electrician put a relay somewhere along the ignition wires under the steering column, I'm able to start the car temporarily. Only obvious problem is that the car won't automatically start with the key turned all the way to the "start" position. It will only continuously crank the engine until I release the key. By then, it will start... but not always. Sometimes I have to try a few times before I get to start the engine. I've been managing to deal with this situation quite fine until today. All dash light turn on with the key on the "on" position but when I turn it all the way to the "start" position there's no crank. Lights remain on but blurs a bit. Any ideas to shed some light would be much appreciated... Arvin
Looked under the car to check the wiring to the starter motor and didn't realise that I've routed the big wire that supplies power to it (from the positive battery terminal) behind the driver side turbo. I've probably "cooked" the wire as I've noticed that it's "just" starting to melt the thick cover away. Did a continuity test on that wire (from positive battery terminal to M, as per photo below) and there isn't any continuity. Is it safe to say that the starter motor isn't getting any power at all due to the aforementioned reason? Does that justify the scenario that all dash light turn on with the key on the "on" position but when I turn it all the way to the "start" position there's no crank and that lights remain on but blurs a bit (there is no "click" sound even)? Arvin
so you connected the battery to the starter motor as in the pic? if so the starter motor should have spun but probably wouldnt have cranked the engine as you bypassed the solenoid which helps push the starter gear out to engage the ring gear. If it didnt spin then you have a problem, try tapping the starter motor (gently) with a hammer, if not time to replace it, or get it reconditioned, its probably just the brushes gone or something.
But if there's no continuity on the wiring connection, wouldn't that suggest a wiring issue rather than a starter motor one? I'd try to disconnect the wiring and re-check it. Would also be worthwhile bypassing the connection to the battery and see if it would solve the problem... AAA
Sorry i think we are getting confused, in that picture is that thing that isnt the starter motor is that the a battery? or is that the multimeter?
ok so being as that is the battery its basically bypassing the whole key relay and solenoid setup of the starting system and straight powering up the starter motor, so like i said that should have made the starter motor spin, if it didnt then the problem is with the starter motor, if it did spin then you should be checking to make sure that there is a voltage getting to the starter motor, using a multimeter check the voltage between the body of the car and the wire coming from the battery, should be pretty much the same as the reading straight across the battery terminals.
