Arvin had issues with his starter motor wiring when he was doing the 'big build' (See his thread on this). My thought would be to go thru this procedure (EL 18): Wiring diagram for starter system is on page EL 17 Tests for continuity and resistance / checks are on EL 20-24
Hi Arvin, Firstly, I am no Auto-Electrician, so this is not my area of expertise. I assume your Starter Solenoid is working, given your jump-starting effort? Did you simply provide power from your battery to the solenoid, with a jumper lead? If so, I am guessing that you could have a faulty Ignition Switch(which has lost contact in the "START" position). If the engine starts and runs, then clearly you have "Ignition circuit power", so that part of the switch is working correctly. As the engine cranks over when you provide power directly to the Starter Solenoid, the Starter is working correctly. That doesn't leave much, except the circuitry from the Ignition Switch to the Solenoid(or the actual switch itself).
If the car died on the way home after a front bar and bonnet was fitted, first guess would be that some wiring has been disturbed while they were fitting up the bar and bonnet. The insulation on the wires gets very brittle after years of moisture, heat and dirt exposure. So very easy for the plastic to split, and expose a power wire to short out on whatever it touches first
Went under the car to physically inspect the wires. Nothing seems unusually wrong. Checked the starter relay but unable to locate it behind the wheel well liner. After doing my own research, it should be easy to locate it as it's blue. Made me think that mine was bypassed in the past. And here's an excerpt from the tech section which made me think: "Normally the ignition switch actuates the low current solenoid in the relay that controls higher current switch in the relay. This protects the ignition switch and the relay takes the abuse. With the bypass in place the ignition switch will be taking that abuse. Long term use of the bypass could lead to eventual ignition switch failure. Limited use of the bypass is therefore considered prudent." I'm now inclined to test my ignition switch. Will spend the next few days researching as to how it's done. Feel free to share any related experience/knowledge which could possibly cut short my time sorting it out. Thanks in advance, people... AAA :zlove:
And another hanging question: how does the ignition switch get tested using a multimeter? Not the snappiest when it comes to electrical gremlins but very willing to learn. Take me to school, gurus... P.S. Tried to swap a known working manual ECU and didn't do the trick. Just thought of doing it for the heck of satisfying my curiosity... AAA
unhook the power disconnect the plug from the switch use a multimeter with ohms resistance setting between the 2 big wires which connect to the ignition switch (colored solid and colored striped - usually red) set the ignition to the position where you would be cranking the engine. the resistance should then stop counting and go to 0 when trying to crank. if all seems fine, you can try make up your own wire to go from the ignition barrel to the starter solenoid and give that a try. (I am not an auto electrical guru, but I do know electronics and wiring very well. so just thinking on my limited knowledge =] )
yep exactly as andy said, that is just to test to see if the circuit is the problem some where along the line, or to figure out if the switch itself or the solenoid are the problem and not a long term fix =]
UPDATE: I've bridged the starter motor solenoid to the postive battery terminal and put a switch in between. This will be a temporary fix so I can still drive the car around until I get things sorted out. Checked the ignition switch and i can probably say it's rulled out based on the service manual. All five terminals behind it are flowing electricity as per manual diagram. I think there's a short somewhere but I can't trace where it is. Here are the symptoms present: stereo and both L + R pods remain on all the time (even without the key in) key turned to ACC: nothing happens key turned to ON: check engine, door, etc lights turn on + boost controller on + fuel pump priming key turned to IGN: all lights turn off except stereo and pods FYI, stereo wiring hasn't been altered since i got the car, as opposed to the boost controller been purchased later on and I did wire it on a different path from the stereo's. I've checked all fuses on the foot panel + fusible links, all good. If I have to check the relays and fuses on the engine bay (front passenger side), which should I specifically check? And how are relays checked using a multimeter? Arvin
Even if I've checked the ignition switch itself for continuity and all five connectors tested positive (OK)? I used the guide below (middle leftmost diagram -- "ignition switch"): AAA
Okay, swapped with a known working ignition switch and alas... problem's still there! Cig lighter, stereo and both pods still remain on permanently even without the key in the barrel. Checked the fuses including the ENG CONT in the engine bay... they're fine. Where should I start investigating?! Could the alternator be dead?!
I think so too. I don't think anyone in here had the same experience. Time to get the cape on... Arvin
Its also ver difficult to determine faults based on description alone. One of those things where you actually need to be there with test light in hand!!! Good luck with it Arv. Cheers E
Thanks man. I brought it to a "semi"-professional autoelectrician and my ignition problem has been resolved. Now I'm left with just the accessories remaining on even without the key on the barrel + a voltage drop during engine cranking (accdg to him)...
