idle problems after removing AIV.. NEED HELP

Discussion in 'Technical' started by zedboy, Aug 10, 2009.

  1. zedboy

    zedboy Active Member

    OK i got a new exhaust fitted on my na/mt AIV was no longer needed so i thought i may aswell get rid off it all together. I followed the tech section and rockchuker's thread http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=291350.
    So i followed the vacum lines back to the actuator got rid of them and then followed the vacum line to the balance tube and the line to the pipe that comes of the right-side intake pipe.
    I then connected both the balance tube and the pipe of the intake so i have no vacum leaks. At the actuator i still have the electrical plug in place though all vacum lines have been removed.

    Now the problem once the car has warmed up the idle is lower than it use to be, use to sit at 650-700rpm now is at 550-600rpm. :( Soon as i touch the accelarator the idle drops for a split second and then comes back up again perfectly fine. Also while its at idle if i put a bit of pressure on the gearbox against 3rd the idle will really drop and even stall.
    What have i done wrong? :(:( Is it due to that i still have the electrical plug still connected to the AIV actuator and its sending a false reading to the ECU. I only left it in place as rockchucker did so in his thread.
    Someone please help me out.

    Thanks
    Matt
     
  2. Sanouske

    Sanouske Retired Moderator

    Im uncertain on what affects the actuator have in regards to signals to the ECU. But in the write up, he removed the actuator completely. All he did was use the dielectric grease on the connector plug, to stop oxidation. I would gather that if you still have the actuator plugged in, but no vac lines attached, it may be giving you, your lower idles. Remove the actuator all together and see what then happens.

    Best of luck.
     
  3. zedboy

    zedboy Active Member

    Yes sorry he did, when i saw him put the dielectric grease in i thought he would have re-connected it. I have now disconnected the plug from the actuator and disconnected the negative on the battery to reset the ecu, hopefully this will help. Anyone else had a similar problem to mine when completley removing the AIV? keep your comments comming.

    Thankyou :zlove:
     
  4. Chilledpain

    Chilledpain Z Reaper

    The problem is the line running to the balance pipe is actually incorrect. It will cause low idle. Ask rockchucker about this... Look at the PRVR removal in the tech section. Complete the removal of the PRVR canister.

    The vac lines should now look like this...

    [​IMG]

    Cap off the line going to the balance pipe on the drivers side.

    Idle should be fine. :D

    Let me know how u go...
     
  5. MikeZ32

    MikeZ32 das Über member

    Last edited: Aug 10, 2009
  6. Chilledpain

    Chilledpain Z Reaper

    PRVR is just another thing to remove while ur at it... It has no direct relevance to AIV removal. I just mentioned it because it gives you the nipple to run the removed vac line from the AIV into...(From memory)

    I read in a different article about the vac lines connected as described in rockchuckers guide caused idle problems...

    Try it and see...
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2009
  7. whoppersandwich

    whoppersandwich Le Canon De Douche

    A little off topic, but I want to get some nice silicon pipes to replace my intake pipes. Had a squiz the other day and noticed these little pipes coming off the intake pipes. Are these pipes just going to useless bits like the AIV? I dont think the silicon pipes have ports for these little pipes so if i replace it will i be doing any damage anywhere?

    I obviously dont really care to much if theres nothing going to my AIV's as im gonna try to remove em at some point in the future just wondering if theres other effects.
     
  8. Mclovin

    Mclovin Well-Known Member

    Stainless steel NA intake pipes have them, I don't think I've seen any silicon pipes for the NA. The vacuum lines your talking about are your PCV. :cool:

    You need the PCV btw. :)
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2009
  9. zedboy

    zedboy Active Member

    Thanks for your reply, i haven't removed the PRVR. So your saying i should block the vacum nipple on the drivers side of the balance tube that goes to the AIV, and then block it on that little pipe that comes of the intake pipe?

     
  10. zedboy

    zedboy Active Member

    Hey mike i just read through the aus version of the AIV removal pretty much the same as rockchuckers and its what i did. Joined the nipple on the drivers side of the balance tube to the small pipe that runs of the drivers side intake pipe. I noticed in step 7 he mentioned he found no regular idle pattern after removing the AIV which is the exact same problem that i have.
    Can someone enlighten me on this?

    http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.529
     
  11. Chrispy

    Chrispy Pretentious Upstart

    I just blocked the hose that went to the AIV's and left the solenoid there.
     
  12. zedboy

    zedboy Active Member

    The hose with the T-piece? I removed all 3 hoses and i would prefer to keep it like that, though if it means i have to put all the crap back in then i guess i will.
     
  13. zedboy

    zedboy Active Member

    Can someone let me know what i should do, should i block the vacum nipple on the drivers side of the balance tube and block the end of the small pipe of the drivers side intake pipe? The one were the pcv solenoid is connected to?
    Will this solve my rough idle issue? The same problem is show in step 7 of this tech guide http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.529
    Any help will be greatly appreciated, can't stand hearing the zed running rough :(
     
  14. Chrispy

    Chrispy Pretentious Upstart

    Yeah, pulled the T and blocked that hose. I was going to pull all the extra bits when I did a plenum pull but never got around do doing it.
     
  15. zedboy

    zedboy Active Member

    I was going to do that, but id prefer to leave the whole lot out, just waiting for someone to let me know what to do with the other two vacum nipple, whether to block each one off individually or not
     
  16. sandeep

    sandeep Active Member

    are you retaining the EGR system?
    if so, you can block off the vac port on the balance tube but you will need to keep the drivers side throttle body vac port and drivers side intake pipe port connected to the EGR solenoid.
    like this:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    if you are ditching the EGR system too, then you can block all 3 ports on the drivers side (balance tube, under throttlebody and intake pipe)
     
  17. zedboy

    zedboy Active Member

    At the moment EGR is still in place, so on the balance tube vacum port i block that so nothing is connected to it correct?? And that vacum port of that small pipe connected to the intake pipe i run a vacum hose up to the throttlebody? I haven't touched anything up around there when removing the AIV but i will have a look.


     
  18. sandeep

    sandeep Active Member

    block the balance tube outlet with a vacuum cap.
    the ports on the throttle body and the intake pipe need to connect to the egr solenoid, checkout the picture in my other post. I did it this way and just ran 2 new vac lines from the throttlebody to egr solenoid (red line) and intake pipe to egr solenoid (blue line). leave the vac line from the EGR valve (green line) in place as it is difficult to run a new vac line to the EGR valve (behind the motor) with the plenum on.
     
  19. zedboy

    zedboy Active Member

    So this will solve my idle problem? I take it you have experienced the same thing
     
  20. michandy

    michandy Active Member

    From memory

    I think I had that same problem when I did my AIV's, Yes block the two pipes and see if it helps, can't remember exactly how I fixed mine but it was to do with the vac lines described and think I blocked them.
    Hope this helps, Andy :cool:
     

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