this only happens when i stopped the car from high speed, eg exit from hwy. i tried to disconnect the battery to clear the memory and it worked for few weeks, but this problem came back again last night on my way to the airport. any ideas guys, thanks
What brand of filter do you have? If you have a pod style filter you may get a bad reading at the AFM when backing of the throttle to idle when the car is going around 100 odd kph. Some have solved it by placing a strip of duct tape down one side of the filter to disrupt the whole swirl design of the filters. Other wise adjust the angle of the filter so It isn't directly effected by air speed.
2nd'd As above check TPS/base idle is correct. The AAC valve controls air intake during sudden decelleration/throttles closed.
thanks guys for all the possibilities. i am using HKS Super Mega Flow intake and will check others, but i did have a blocked exhaust once and something came out from the exhaust. it was the cat but i have not fix it yet. so maybe that is the reason why, isnt it?
got the cats fixed,re-set the throttle position switch and idle speed, but still have the problem, help guys thanks
pod when your pod is sitting right behind the front bar at high speed its affected alot by air speed and when putting into neutral messes around with the afm.. also hks super mega flow has very poor filtration record
this is also happenin to me wen i was at the drags last week crossed the line at abt 170k put into neutral brake den engine cuts off
BECOMING COMMON...!!! This happened to me about 8 weeks ago; With help from Chilli, Zed4Life, and BigBaz - plus NO HELP from a supposed Zed-workshop, who wanted $2640 for 30.5 hours' work, who fluked getting the car re-started only to have it happen again!! - and adjustment at our Tech Day, the car is now running again. This failure has popped up numerous times in various threads since mine occurred and perhaps the top tech guys might put their collective heads together to see if they can come up with a definitive solution. It seems to be the sort of thing we associate with faulty CAS, PTU, CTS, AFM and all the connectors that plug into these.BigBaz also suggested in my case to check coilpack connectors, injector connectors and ECU. His comment:..." to check all these connectors and clean them should only take a couple of hours at most".
DIAGNOSTIC... SORRY, forget to mention...the initial diagnostic code comes up as a Code 34 which indicates the detonation sensor circuit.
sick andy, your motor is as sick as, on the cruize it was blowing shitloads of blue smoke and sounded like a tractor, it needs some major diagnostics and probably work, in my opinion the best thing for you to do is get the motor pulled and get everything fixed, because doing little tweaks to that motor isn't going to help it , sorry to say, you're up for $$$$$ cheers
shiiiiite!!! if thats a "rebuilt" motor,i had no idea as i would class it at the other end of the spectrum, just from how it sounds and the smoke, in that case he should definitely be taking it back to them and getting the job done properly, because that motor is sick, i was driving directly behind him for quite a while on the cruize and there is definitely something wrong with it, not to mention the awful "clunking" noise when he takes off, sounds gearbox or diff related and there was a constant heavy smell of burning oil, at first i thought it was my car but i was mistaken, it was andy's
yes the car was really sick on the cruize, and sorry about all the smoke, it was the left cat, now i got the new cats put in and everything is all good:zlove: and also that awful "clunking" noise was from the left cat as well so was not really a big deal. i will take the car back to the shop and find out what is the cause of the engine cutting off. thanks guys for your consider. will you let you know the result later cheers andy
