I went do dicksmith/jaycar/some utha place and they all sold me different shit lol each place sasy u need this one or that one or some utha one and none of them look like the one in the pic I posted up some one said I have to get a 1000 resistor so I did but I dunno looks different to the pic and I want to be sure coz I dun want to wreck anything. Also one of my mechanics say it might not work so I am lost lol I will look thru the tech and report back. Once agin thanks for all the hlep guys im so lost with this whole thing
it looks different becuase a resistor comes on its own. what theyve done in the tech is put some wire on each end and covered it with heat shrink... if you asked for and got a """A one mega ohm resistor (1000 k ohm) """ then its the one u need. now just put some wire on each end and secure it in the plug terminals...
After reading this im kinda woried and I dont have acces to dat csan or conzult or anything. http://tech.aus300zx.com/ Thanks 4 the help
Is there no one in SA that can come around and help you with Datascan and a bit of Tech advice?? (for the steep cost of a couple of beers) Seriously, there has to be a member somewhere nearby with the gear to give this situation a quick diagnosis. It is SOOO hard to diagnose and repair these sort of jobs via posts over the forum sometimes. It could possibly take someone who knows a bit about this sort of stuff 10mins to look over the engine and say "oh that's what's wrong" and here's the fix. (or of course it could go the other way) CALLING OUT ANY SA ZED TEKKIES. There has to be someone that can help WLDTTZ out on his Zed. :bow2: Gee's, it you lived in Qld you'd have a fellow member over there in a second to help fix your problem.
lol no one here cares man il just take her to the mech again Last Z cruze here there were5 people one befroe that were 10 but thats the most lol There are a few Z's around S.A some real nice ones but non members. I have seen some here with 20K + put into em
damn it well it looks like ill come over and do it.... i might ring wess to borrow the cable for mine and yours.. your car is starting to piss me off LOL and i havent even started yet :zlove:
I cant by pass it coz of the way they put the sensor in like there is only one wire they cut the other one. still loosing boost afta 15 min of driving Knok sensor new wire/connection Bad photo but that is the uther side of the DET sensor connection the black one is cut off (could that be causing the trouble ?? this wire is like 2cm long and dosent connect to anything but it looks like it connected to the old det sensor plug) some ebc tubeing pics ruff hose connection diograhm
Andy, chad , et al.. plz check this pic HERE Mike 1. Unplug the new wire that i believe goes to your BOSCH DET 2 add some wire onto your resistor... 3) wack it into the othe end of the plug that runs down to the loom and to your ecu 4) leave battery off for 20 min to reset ecu 5) IS THAT PIC UNCLEAR? CHeers Frank :thumbup:
zander mate mate if i can grab Mike one day soon we will come past say hello ive never seen your zed anyway... Very nice thanks for the offer i usually check mine 1ce a year on data scan as i have no fuel problems no need to check :thumbup: talk soon Frank
Thanks frank but that resistor wont do anything coz the 2nd wire dusn exist it has been riped out msg me when ya free man.
dont worry about what is going to the det sensor. u need the other end of the plug. the plug that is going to the ecu. and put the resistor inbetween those two wires coming into the plug... so azzurro correct on wat to do but wrong on which side of the plug its on as you can see the plug here is the side coming from the ecu. it has two wires...put the resister inbetween these two wires
Ok I bypassed the det sensor 9PSI Baby But I think my EBC wnt wrk my mechanic said I put it in properly but it wont go. Andy told me to reconnect the factory boost solinoids so thats what I have done but the ebc wont raise or lower the boost. I have cheked my instalation about 5 times and my mech says its all good. Fauly controller ?? thanks mike
Solenoid wires could be on back to front. The wires are normally colour coded, yours appear to be all black.
Hey I am having the same problem , running stock boost, but I have Bov's. This problem has been around before the BOV's. when she warms up , only like 6psi of boost ,before it hits operarting temp , 8-9 PSI. Really frustrating because I have FMIC, boost jets And my ECU is socketed and ready for a JWT chip. But I would like to get this sorted before I progress any further. Did you get your problem resolved ?
welcome to the forum mate... so you are saying you cant make full boost until your car is at operating temp??? ill just point out that you should be maxing your boost while the car is cool in the first place. you should be waiting till your car is all warmed up and at the right levels before doing so or you can cause some problems or were you trying to say something else??
Nope runs full boost till it warms up , then runs safety when the needle is half way on the gauge. thanks for the welcome , I am actually in Canada .. but this is the most reliant post I found on the net thus far
